I checked all fuses, Zero motor noise when hitting the button, the top is locked down, I manually unlocked, and locked the front a few times just incase, and pushed down on the bank many times to be sure. I do not know if the open and close button is lit up, i will have to check. I know if I manually open my truck and hit the roof button it beeps as to something is wrong. Same as if you put the car in Reverse, as it did when it worked excellent.

No motor noise, fuses are all good, latches are solid, i unlatched and latched a few times manually just incase. No idea if light on switch is on? Should it be?

If you are getting a beep when pressing the button with the trunk open then you are getting power to the button. I wanted to rule out something simple and cheap first like a loose wire or bad fuse where the button had no power.

Next thing would be to try to check the motor for power. I'm guessing the motor is shot since you dont even hear it making noise but it would be a wire that fell out or got damaged and causing no power to the motor.

Trying to be optimistic and have you check the cheap fixes first lol

Picked mine up from the dealer this morning and they say it's fault(s) in the convertible top wiring harness. Unfortunately they're also telling me the harness isn't sold and is only available if you purchase the entire top. I've contacted Nissan, it seems crazy that you would need to replace and entire top that has nothing wrong with it because of a wiring harness fault.

If the connectors are still good, any decent weekend electrician should be able to get you fixed up.

Why can't you buy it from this site for $100?

Nissan 370Z (2010-2014). #240691ET0A: Convertible Top Wiring Harness. Harness.

Great find. Unless the weekend electrician I mentioned is willing to work for a six-pack, this would probably be the cheapest (and easiest) route.

I'd still get a competent "vert guy" to look at it before I started swapping out parts. Going by my own experience and what I have read on this site, very few dealers know how to troubleshoot/work on Zs and fewer still know anything about verts. It could be as simple as a relay that has come unplugged or gone bad.

I checked fuses in the drivers kick panel, and under the hood, zero had issues. My trouble is I am still working at it to get the top open to get into the motor for it. Top Hydraulics is giving me help which they are doing great. I will post photos and how to do it when I get done.

I just recently fixed mine couple weeks ago, very similar issue...

The issue with mine was it can open properly, but it cannot complete the closing, when I hit the close button, it starts the closing procedures, the rear-latch latches onto the storage lid and the two front hooks latch into the windshield frame, but then the motor doesn't stop and keep trying to lock until it gives up the process after some 10-15 secs, then the front hooks release, the rear one is locked but not the front.

Roof light is on because it's not closed, and if I try to open it with the button, it releases the rear latch then stop because the ECU thought the roof is stuck at the front, I have to push the front part of the roof backward until the rear window flip-up, then the ECU sense both side are up then it can complete the open process when I go back to press the button again.


But I still couldn't close the top.


Unless, when I try to close the roof, I release the close button when I heard the front latches are locked, but since I release the button myself, the ECU thinks the process is not completed and the roof-light will keep blinking and buzzing once the car starts moving.


I've looked at some thread in here, including this one, trying to figure out what's wrong, at first, I thought it's one or both of the sensor located at the top of the windshield for the front latches.


However, without any tools, I cannot pin-point the cause.

With the thought of believing it's caused by the front striker-sensor, I brought the car to the dealer.

Paid 2 hours for them to diagnose the problem, eventually they told me they are getting a code saying it's the rear latch. It's either it doesn't latch properly or the sensor is faulty.

Anyway, they order the part, it's the black color triangle metal part that screwed underneath the top-storage-lid. Basically it has 3 sensors and a hydraulic motor.

The actual part doesn't come with the motor, just the 3 sensors.

It's an 8.5 hours job according nissan, at the beginning I thought it's a rip off, but after the whole thing is completed, I believe 8.5h is about right.


What the Nissan tech can do in the dealer, is they can remove the faulty part, switch the motor from the old part to the new one, and screw it back in place. But removing the motor isn't an easy job though, should be an hour or two.

Then they have to give my car to an independent shop to look after the roof, which is a shop specialize on repairing roof. Nissan tech doesn't know how to do it.

What my service adviser told me was, after they put the part on, they have to have those roof-guy to align the latch and the roof, and that takes time, cause otherwise the roof won't close properly.

Eventually, took them 3 days to complete the job they charge me for 8.5 hours.

Of cos, I am not saying they spent 3 full days to work on my car, but it does take time.

The whole job cost me about $1700 including the 2 hours i paid for the diagnose.


I've read the top manual, there's about 9-10 sensors in the roof, any one of them fail can lead to the problem, I don't know do they use a regular OBDII scanner or some other tools to look for the problem, but I think you need to have them take a look.

Of cause they always try to ask you to replace the whole roof cos they make the most money and it's simple, I will suggest you still have them take a look and hopefully they can pin point which component(s) is giving the problem.

Otherwise, bring it to a local roof-shop, they should be able to diagnose the problem too, if you are in good term with the service adviser, he/she might even tell you which shop do they use and you might as well just bring to car to the shop directly.


To some of you who wants to get rid of that warning light and buzz, here's the solution:

open the battery cover under the hood, there's a small fuse box in front of the battery, on the cover there's the diagram telling you which fuse is for which component, there's two fuses for the roof, one is a big one with a 40A and there's another small one in 15A, I remember it's the 2nd one to the right on the top row.

You can remove that 15A fuse, the warning light will turn off and no more buzzing, so you can drive in peace.

HOWEVER, you won't be able to use the central-lock button on the driver's door, you can lock and unlock the car with the remote or manually press the locking knob, just the central-lock button inside the car doesn't work, and you won't be able to open the trunk, well, you won't be able to open it anyway even with the fuse in place since the top warning light is on.


My top is working normally now since it's fixed.


It's a long post but I hope it gives you some $0.02 on your issue.

Thanks for this detailed report ... and the Buzzer Alarm fuse tip :). You can see more of my problem in an earlier part of this thread. I have an appointment set up with my local dealer for next week. Believe it or not, we have a lot of verts running around this part of the east coast. We love our fresh air! So, I remain hopeful that I will have a fix soon. Will post when I do.

Do you have the old part alcheng? Top Hydraulics has the parts needed to replace this, he has been helping me out, i agree to spread the word! Plus..who wants to pay thousands of $$

I've checked Top Hydraulic too, but they mainly sell/repair the hydraulic motor, the problem on mine was the sensor.

they replaced the part#7 in the diagram
http://lghttp.26050.nexcesscdn.net/8...rt/3718525.png

not bad $189 for the part! Thank you for the information.

I paid CAD$585 at the dealer :crying:

Ok ... as promised, I have an update on my roof issue. Spent three hours with the local dealer today. They have a knowledgeable tech on the Z34 and knowing how many sensors and other things that can prevent a roof from opening, he was careful not to jump to any premature conclusions. Turns out I had a wire fault in the harness. The prognosis came with two choices, 1) replace the roof or 2) try to isolate the bad wires and effect a repair. I went with 2) despite the risk of not having anything to show after spending a bundle on labour. Good choice ... he found a chaffed pair of wires that were rubbing off the roof frame each time it opened and closed. They were exposed enough to short together from time to time but not consistently. The solution was to add a bit of wire to give the wires some extra slack and then good old tape. Problem solved ... Yay!! Only 3 hours of labour. Also had a clutch switch go this summer ... hopefully things will be better next season!
Anyway ... just spent the last few hours of daylight touring with 23 degree C and a lots of sun! Makes all the problems worth it!