Dealer Wont Deal???
 

Ok, so I drive over 50 miles to a Nissan Dealership that has several Z's in their inventory. Start looking at a Blue Touring w/ sport package, and lists for $38,750. I have to fight for a test drive, however, finally get it, and love the car. They have an online discount, which bumps the price of the car down to $35,150. I also bank with USAA, so they gave me another 150 off the car (online, however, it says I can get the thing delivered the same way for 34,750). We then start talking numbers, and they give me 18,500 for the Honda Accord EX-L, fair enough in my book. This brings the grand total to my 08 Honda Accord and $16,500. I told them I was looking more in the neighborhood of 12,000 (a long shot, but might as well go with the lowest first). They don't even try to counter, and I leave. Go to a bar, have a couple of drinks, and really think about it. Give the salesman a call, and tell him I can give him my car, and 14,000 tonight, cash money. He sounds excited, and states he will give me a call in 5 minutes. 15 minutes later, he says his manager wont budge, and if I want the car, the price is 16,500. I don't know how the car sales industry works, however, if a guy comes to me willing to make a deal (the place was nearly empty today), I would atleast talk numbers with him. Criswell Nissan in Germantown, Maryland, could have had a sale today, however, because they were not willing to talk anything below the price quoted, I walked. Additionally, by stroke of sheer fate, my friend and his wife went to the same dealership today, and reported much of the same. They were completely unwilling to budge in price. Are my numbers too far fetched? I figured if we met half way, it would be a done deal, seeing as how they really weren't selling much of anything. Any help you guys may have is greatly appreciated!

Let me ask this first.
2008 Honda Accord Ex-L
How many miles and what equipment.

17,100 miles, coupe, Heated Leather Seats, Power Driver Seat, Premium Audio, Moon Roof, Auto On/Off Lights, power everything... fully paid off.....

Auto Manual, Nav?

Auto, no nav or bluetooth, KBB lists for 18500

Sorry 1 more 4cyl, 6cyl

Lol, it is my bad, not yours, 4 cylinder!

Let me recap
Selling Price $34,750.00
Trade $18,500.00
Difference $16,250.00
Does this look correct?

It looks like he is taking $3750 off sticker, and that is a pretty fair deal. You may be able to get another couple hundred, but you aren't going to find any dealer to give you 6-8K off sticker, which is what you're asking for.

No, selling price is 35,000 , trade is 18500, difference of 16500

35,000 is a hell of a price and 18500 for the trade is right on the money. I would go back and sign. Order another drink and head back! You would be getting in the Z for about 700 below invoice. I wouldn't pass up that deal!

Below invoice now
 

It appears that you were below invoice ($35,724 Edmunds) when you reached $35,150 with the dealer. Then you got another $150. I can't find the 34,750 you speak of. But either way that is just $250 more and you are still several hundred dollars under invoice at this point. You say the $18,500 for the Honda is OK. So I can understand the dealer when you shot 12K at him. Even at 14K he is not going to take that much in the shorts. You might get him to maybe 16,000 or 16,250. But, I'd say that $16,500 is a hell of a deal. I believe that you have heard the last from him unless you return with a more realistic number to him. (BTW don't forget the $720 Destination Charge. It sounds like he is tossing that in as a freebe)
:twocents:

You're nuts, you are getting one hell of a deal and you still want more. Did you even bother to check the MSRP vs. invoice price on the car you want to see how close the dealer was coming to it? Like the others stated, call them back and sign the paperwork.

I am not making fun of you DooDoo, but I see this all the time, and it kills me that people don't check what invoice is before they go negotiate. Then they come in ,you give them a hell of a deal and people throw out a stupid number. Then you ask where did you come up with this and people state, that's where I want to be at, with no logic behind the number, just a guess. Please go back, do you and the dealer a favor. It is a great price!

Thanks to all, just looked at everything, wish I would have done a bit more homework! We will see, when I decide to buy, I know where to go though!
Thanks all!

Wow, I just made a thread and I am in the exact same situation looking at the exact same vehicle as you. That is just crazy. The only difference is I know what the invoice is, but i want to make sure that my price is fair for the mileage of 118 on the Z i am looking at.

haha ditto.. i sell vw's and get the same thing from people.. thats just what i want to pay.. i merely tell them then your not going to own this vehicle haha have a nice day.

I read your thread, and this is what I gotta say. I'm not on the dealer's side, but then I'm not on the customer's side. I play this out, and maybe some get irritated by it, but I'm a former car salesman. What does this mean? I know what goes on from the dealers' side as well as the customers'.

This forum, along w/ the plethora of other internet sites mislead people into thinking they can cut below invoice.

There is nothing wrong with getting a deal i.e. between invoice and MSRP, but asking @ or below invoice is too much.

Customers will say, dealers are unethical and will rape you whatever way they can--TRUE. Why? Because so many customers go into dealers and DEMAND unreasonable figures. You got the pinstrip they charge $700 for but cost the dealer $25, the extended warranty that adds $50/month for 5 yrs. when it really cost $1,000; the Lojack that cost $175 but they "hook you up" for $600, and these added accessories and extended warranties make your payments jump accompanied by the fact you pay interest on them. This is "back end" make up for the fact you got it close to, or below invoice. The poor old salesman makes a flat or mini i.e. less than $100 while the F&I guy says "go get another one killer, the next one's a high gross!"

I understand that average customer isn't going to make a career out of studying the car business. But I did, thus I got lots of inside knowledge & experience. When I worked at Peyton Cramer VW/Lincoln/Hyundai, I was buddies with the GM. We had parties and get togethers at his home. Why do I give you this intimate but seemingly "irrelevant" info? Because I used to ask him the "behind the scenes" financial mechanics of a typical new car dealership.

A new car dealership spends several hundred thousand dollars PER MONTH to keep the doors open, YES--SEVERAL HUNDRED THOUSAND U.S. DOLLARS MONTHLY. It doesn't run on air like a lot of you seem to think.

There's something called "flooring." Flooring is essentially the dealership "renting" the new car from the bank that owns it. You see, dealerships do not own the cars they physically carry on hand at the lots. It's about 1% from what I remember my buddy telling me, the GM. So, for a 370 brand new, it's at least $300 per month to have that unit on the lot. If that 370 doesn't sell for like 3 months, then it costed the dealer $900 to have kept it. You see how expensive it is to run a dealership? This is the tip of the iceberg.

Lastly, a lot of you people need to stop approaching dealer with this "so and so got his for $300 beneath invoice, why can't I?"

370's are not LOSS LEADER nor ADVERTISER cars. A loss leader is essentially a bait & switch ploy.

Just go in there, and say: I want $500 over invoice + fees and no accessories nor extended warranty. I already test drove the car, I already ran my credit, no need to lower my FICO score anymore, I was here few days ago, let's go.

that just sounded funny....sorry doodoo :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

I think most people don't realize that there is barely any difference between MSRP and Invoice on these cars. I managed to get about $800 below MSRP and a bunch of extras thrown in and I was more than happy with the deal. Everyone else said MSRP and that's it. This is a pretty rare car and I would have happily paid MSRP on it. Everyone wants a deal...

Here is what I can tell you, if you feel like you got a good deal, and feel like you can trust the person you are working with and the dealership your at, then do the deal. But with the way the economy is I am selling Z's at invoice so I don't have to floor them and get my turns up so I recieve credits on my floor and recieve credits on my co-op. That is probably more than you need to know.

Hey, your 370's move quickly, thus you don't need to floor them. I understand the economy is slow, thus you gotta wheel 'n deal. But when there's all this hearsay about 370's blowing out at or below invoice, then the seed will be planted in everyone's head, especially on this site, that 370's are as common and easy to steal as loss leaders--this is not true.

C'mon, how many times did your dealer do the bait and switch w/ the loss leaders? And let's be honest, I worked at a few stores where they straight out lied about the loss leader already being "sold." A Ford store I worked at got caught when some customer who had suspicions called the DMV on when de facto it wasn't.

When I worked @ Penske Chevy/Cadillac (now it's Massey Chevy/Cadillac in Downey,CA), this guy came in wanting a new C5 Vette. The sticker was like $46,000 then. He wanted $500 + invoice, and he had his preapproval from the credit union. My sales manager politely told him that Vettes sell @ sticker, and nothing less. The guy complained and said a nearby Chevy dealer would do it. Then my salesmanager said, "Ok, then buy, it's a good deal." This same jack-off visited our store several times sporadically throughout the year--too good to be true.

In Los Angeles, they won't whore out 370's. I got mine for $2,000 below MSRP and was HAPPY! They tried to do the hackneyed but non-existent "Scotch guard plan" that added $20/month to my 48 mo. contract, but I asked, "what is this extra $960 you're charging me for?" I got a 800+ Experian, 2 paid off autos, student loans, etc. I'm with B of A @ 5.9% for 48 months, but I'm gonna switch to my credit union at 3.9% (unless this offer expires). :tiphat:

highest i've been quoted was 3500 markup over msrp ROFL
current quote i got was 1250 over invoice and fair price on my trade in.
i had invoice price on 1 and they tried to stiff my trade in @ 4500 under
kbb/nada

i am still deciding right now what i want to do.

Barely any difference? The difference is nearly $2k for the base and $2.5k for the touring. Tack on another $400 difference if you want the sport package. Decreasing the cost of a car by 8% seems worth the fight, don't you? Well, maybe not you, as you already said MSRP would have been fine.

A $40k car costs around $133/month in interest on a 4% loan (and that's assuming a top of the line touring model with all gadgets). We're talking a 370Z, not a fully loaded GT-R.

And it's difficult to have sympathy for a salesman/manager who refuses an offer that nets them $1k in profit from holdback, not to mention what they'll make from financing, because it's not $150 over invoice like they wanted. Fine, I'll come back in a month, that car will still be sitting there. My price point hasn't changed, but the dealership just lost $150 in interest. If they sell it at invoice now, they lose $300 off of what they wanted... had they sold it to me last month, they would only sell it for $150 less than what they wanted. If they're unlucky enough to have a car that no one wants for several months, they can take a real bath in the loss department... sometimes it's better to sell at a known (and decent) profit than take the chance on getting a much smaller one months down the road.

If I go through USAA's car buying program, the dealership has pre-negotiated $825 below invoice (for the model I was looking at), and they're STILL making a profit off of that sale, so why bicker about invoice at all? It's called risk. The dealership is taking a risk that they can make me cave and buy the car for their original asking price before walking out and losing the sale entirely. Some dealerships are bigger risk takers, and the size of the risk will depend heavily upon their sales for the month. Dealers don't like guys like me... I'm willing to walk away (and have been for the last two months) if the deal doesn't strike me as good enough. When I was shopping for the Cube, I finally found a dealership willing to accept my price (invoice, since I knew it was a popular car that had just come out less than 3 months before) after 2-3 minutes... and they got my business. The car had just come in a day or two before, they made the sale, lost only a few dollars to interest, but most importantly they made almost their entire holdback as profit (not to mention helping increase their allotment). It cost them a few hours of paperwork, improved their business standing, and made them a tidy profit...

Well,
I do sell all my Z's at invoice, ask anybody on this fourm who has bought from me or recieved a quote. I will let them speak for me. And there is a strategic reason why. I understand where you are coming from. You are seeing the buisness through a different set of eyes. It's the same way a lineman sees a football game VS. an offensive coordinator. If you would like I can PM you and give you a 101 on Inventory Management. I think you would see things a little differently. :tup:

Don't understand why you are asking this, but all my qoutes are OTD prices, and I don't advertise loss leaders.

It also depends on the market. Also depends on your philosophy

:ughdance:

HiTec: do you even know what "holdback" or "dealer cash" is for?

If not, it's in the event the dealer cannot sell the new unit above invoice, and it works as a "base salary" from the manufacturer, in this case, Nissan.


"And it's difficult to have sympathy for a salesman/manager who refuses an offer that nets them $1k in profit from holdback, not to mention what they'll make from financing, because it's not $150 over invoice like they wanted."--where'd you get the accounting from? I think you're arbitrarily making this up.



My friend who was the general manager of Peyton Cramer VW/Lincoln/Hyundai told me flooring costs about 1% the price of the car per month. So for a base 370 @ $30K it's 0.01 x $30K = $300/month. I don't know where you got this 4% per year arbitrary figure, at 0.04 x $40K = 1,600/12= $133/month? Regardless of your perception of this cost, these cars DO NOT sit on the lot for FREE. Seriously, I doubt it only costs $133/month to floor a $40K 370. A GTR from my understanding is $90K x 0.01 = $900/month to keep that unit on the lot, not $900 for 3 months. There's more than flooring that entail the expenses of a dealer; there's the lease on the property i.e. land & improvements and the seperate lots that hold the excess inventory, electricity (the lights are on literally 24/7 inside and outside the store), phone bills are crazy high; salaries/commissions of workers in the dealer and service/parts dept; advertisement (I've seen invoices of $20,000 to run Fri,Sat, &Sun in the L.A. Times) and so forth. If I remember correctly, my friend said it was about $400,000 a month to run that SMALL VW/Hyundai/Lincoln store. It ain't cheap bottom line, but you make it sound like dealers are making killings off the "poor little" consumers.

Fusz: you're in St. Louis, the rest of the country is different in how they work prices or get allocation from Nissan. I do believe you that you sell @ invoice, never doubted it. I'm well aware of concepts of inventory and cost control. I studied operations management/finance in college. But thank you, I don't doubt your word.

It was 2001 when I mentioned my Vette anecdote. I'm pretty sure the bad economy changed that in today's times. But even around here in S. Cali, Nissan stores are reluctant to let you steal a Z near invoice. I know, I tried at 3 different dealers. The one I ultimately dealt with, the F&I guy tried every trick up his sleeve to get me to buy extended warranties and accessories.


I'm all for people getting deals. But when people come up with their "entitlement attitude" of dealers owing them 370's at or below invoice, this is ridiculous. Not all dealers will do this, as a matter of fact, many will turn you away if you lowball like this. If Fusz Nissan will sell to you @ invoice, so be it. Go over to St. Louis and get your 370 there. Go do VPP if you know someone who can hook it up.

Just my 2 cents.

I'll preface this long post with the following: I've been known to be wrong in the past and I will gladly admit when I'm proven to be so (sorry, but proving me wrong will have to be more than "My uncle's mother's monkey told me so). My posts are rarely meant to be inflammatory, but they are often taken as such. As always YMMV...



Yes, I'm aware, but I'm questioning whether you understand the basic business principles in play here. Nissan's holdback is 2% of total invoice and their floor is 1% of total invoice, but the names are irrelevant. Call it a 2% 'dink' and a 1% 'cluck', it amounts to a chunk of money that Nissan returns to the dealer every quarter based upon the total invoice price of the cars they have purchased for that quarter. If the dealer sells the car the moment it hits the floor, 3% of the car's total invoice ends up on the dealer's bottom line. The longer the car sits there costing them interest, the smaller the bottom line is at the end of the quarter. Period.

To try and obfuscate where the money goes and how it is split up is just hand-waving. My post had nothing whatsoever to do with what the dealership pays to keep the lights on, healthcare, etc. as it has no effect on my point... the cost of them keeping the lights in no way has any affect on the difference in money between what they paid for it (quarterly) and what comes out of my pocket. Business expenses are an entirely different matter.

Yes, my numbers are made up as it's an example... but it's not funny accounting. Read what I wrote again. My example was about a dealer requesting $150 over invoice to sell me a car, whereas I wanted to only pay invoice. If he lets the car sit on the lot for a while and decides to sell me that car for my asking price (invoice) at a later date just to sell it, he's not only out the $150 over invoice he wanted initially, he's also out the interest he paid on that vehicle while it sat on the lot. If he sold me the car at my asking price when I initially offered it, he would only lose his requested $150 over invoice, not the same $150 plus interest. There's no magic there.

BTW, your use of the 1% floor as the dealer's cost per month in interest is incorrect. The 4% APR (i.e., annual, not monthly) was only partially arbitrary... I based it upon going car loan rates out there (though it could certainly be higher/lower based upon Nissan's desire to move a specific vehicle). At 4% interest, a $40K vehicle costs about $133/month in interest. Again, no magic there, pull out the calculator and punch in your own numbers. If your numbers are correct ($300/month interest for a 370Z), a dealership is getting that same $40k car at a 9% interest rate... the dealership would be better purchasing cars on their American Express Gold :rolleyes:

And frankly, I don't consider this an attitude of entitlement. It's a matter of business negotiation. Both parties know what the product costs to roll off of the trailer and onto the showroom floor. I'm willing to pay 'X' and the dealer wants me to pay 'Y'. If 'Y' > 'X', then negotiation begins. Even if 'X' is below their cost, that doesn't make it a sense of entitlement, it simply means I don't consider the product worth what it cost the dealer to obtain it. 3% profit on the product for a dealer looks pretty good to me, but I'm not a moron... if I can get it for less than 3%, I'll take it. That's not a sense of entitlement, that's simple economics. The dealer always has the final word, so it's not like I'm robbing the guy.

Waiters expecting 20% tip on a meal because that's the "accepted" or "prevailing" rate, even if the service is poor... now that's a sense of entitlement. I pay around 20% as a matter of course because I feel that is typically a proper amount of remuneration for their services when you consider they live off of that money, but I'll give them 5% or less if they treat me like I'm bothering them during their vacation. If a waiter refused my tip for whatever reason, I'd be happy to oblige him. But it's up to me to give him something... he can't force it out of me.

And the numbers your friend is telling you about running the dealership simply do not make sense. $400k/monthly to run the place? Stop and think about those numbers for a second. Let's assume everyone who came in purchased their car for MSRP, letting the dealer make $2,500 profit off of each car sold... that's a huge assumption that would never hold in real life, but let's err on your side for the moment. Even in that case, this small dealer would have to sell 160 cars per month just to keep the doors open... that doesn't include profit for anyone. Now, I could understand if that $400k included new car purchases from the manufacturer and not include car sales in the figure, but as you can see, the numbers just don't add up. How many small dealerships do you know that sell 7+ cars/day (assuming closed on Sunday) every day at MSRP? And then you have to add in many more car sales per month so the dealer can actually make a profit over and above capitol costs and utilities/salaries.

Floor is 5.5% and it's free for the first 60 days. I go for gross turns and credits.

I basically paid invoice on mine, and so did a lot of people on this forum. If the dealer stuck it to me anywhere, then it was on my trade, but I basically went to 5 different Nissan dealers and 2 Infiniti dealers, and where I bought gave me the best price for the trade. They beat Carmax by 500 bucks. I had my own financing and I didn't buy any extended warranties or extras. The car had Lojack already installed. I told them I wasn't paying for it and they could take it out, but they just left it there and gave it to me.

I don't think invoice is hard to get on this car. Maybe it's different in SoCal, everything else is screwed up there, so why wouldn't buying a car be the same? Maybe your crazy emmision laws which make it impossible for you to buy out of state have caused some sort of colusion amongst dealers.

Source: Dealer holdback at Edmunds car price guide

What Are Holdbacks For?
Dealerships must have an inventory on hand so that consumers can browse and ultimately select a vehicle. Dealerships must pay for this inventory when it is obtained from the manufacturer, and the amount the dealer pays is the price reflected on the invoice from the manufacturer to the dealer, the so-called "invoice price."

Now the twist: with the introduction of holdbacks some years ago, most manufacturers inflated the invoice prices for every vehicle by a predetermined amount (2-3% of MSRP is typical). The dealer pays that inflated amount when it buys the car from the manufacturer. But later, at predetermined times (usually quarterly), the manufacturer reimburses the dealer for that excess amount. This is the "holdback," so named because funds are "held back" by the manufacturer and released only some time after the vehicle is invoiced to the dealership.

Why the sleight-of-hand you might ask? Because holdbacks can benefit dealers in three ways:


1.Dealerships borrow money to finance cars based on an invoiced amount that includes the holdback. So the higher the invoiced amount, the more the dealership can borrow from its lender.


2.Inflating the dealership's "cost" can have the effect of increasing profit, since sales personnel are paid commissions based on the "gross profit" of each sale. Holdbacks have the effect of lowering the gross profit and thus the sales commissions.


3.Holdbacks enable dealerships to advertise "invoice price" sales and sell their vehicles at or near invoice and still make hundreds of dollars on the transaction.
Holdbacks Allow "Invisible" Dealer Profits
This holdback amount is "invisible" to the consumer because it does not appear as an itemized fee on the window sticker. For example, let's say you're interested in a Chevrolet with a Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of $20,500, including optional equipment and a $500 destination charge. Let's also say that dealer invoice on this hypothetical Chevy is $18,000. The cost of the car includes a dealer holdback that, in the case of all Chevy vehicles, amounts to 3% of the MSRP, or $600. (Note that the $500 destination charge should not be included when computing the holdback.) So, on this particular Chevy, the true dealer cost is actually $17,400. Even if the dealer sells you the car for the invoice price, which is unlikely, he would still be making as much as $600 on the deal (when his quarterly check from GM arrives).

Dealer holdback allows dealers to advertise attractive sales. Often, ads promise that your new car will cost you just "$1 over/under invoice!"

Almost all dealerships consider holdback money "sacred" and are unwilling to share any portion of it with the consumer. Don't push the issue. Your best strategy is to avoid mentioning the holdback during negotiations. Mention holdback only if the dealer gives you some song-and-dance about not making any money on the proposed deal when you know that isn't true.

However, the standard dealer holdback is not the only form of financial assistance provided to dealers by manufacturers. There are many other types of holdbacks and dealer credits that may be available from specific manufacturers at various times — some of which consumers may hear about and others of which are never disclosed to the public — but each of which can have the effect of reducing the net cost of a vehicle to the dealer. These include:


•Advertising credits


•Flooring assistance


•Floor interest reserve


•Floor plan allowance


•Transfer balance


•Wholesale reserve


•Wholesale credits
Negotiate Using Incentives, Not HoldbacksIn addition, the dealer stands to reap further benefits if there is "dealer cash" being offered by the manufacturer on the car you are considering. In many instances you can learn about dealer cash in our Incentives and Rebates section. However, unless you know all of these other fees (and who does?), establishing the dealer's true cost can be frustratingly elusive. It's for this reason that Edmunds.com has established True Market Value® pricing that accurately reflects "what others are paying" by taking into account all of these fees. The Edmunds.com True Market Value Price® is the "bottom line" and what you really need to know in order to negotiate a fair deal. Check it out at: New car prices, new car reviews at Edmunds.

In summary, holdback is nice to know, but is just one small piece of a complex puzzle.

OK markup on my car is about $3,400. My friend bought an '09 Mustang convertable and got $13,000 off of sticker. Both cars are around $40K. My point is where the American cars have a crazy mark up - the Z doesn't.

I'm just as eager to get the best price I can and I did my homework and negotiated. That's why I got $800 off instead of paying MSRP. Not sure if you know anything about running a business but making $2500 on a car is jack not a tidy profit. Add to it the cost of keeping a dealership open - staff, rent, utilities, insurance, etc, etc, etc.

Wow way to thread jack guys....

I think yal should make a section in this forum, for discussing how Dealerships should/do profit or run their business. Besides that i think yal should take this discussion elsewhere... even though i find your discussion very interesting...

It's OK Hitech, no offense taken. But it's humorous to see the time and toil you took to write out your superfluous post. Is that you Davidyan? I didn't know vindication and having thin skin is the way you demonstrated not being able to handle another's disagreement. You think extraneous fluff is validating?

Anyhows, I don't use "hearsay" to explain my points. I was in the car biz from '99-'02. You never mentioned whether you had direct experience, or if you read a lot of "how to negotiate a new car" tactic from outside sources. 1% per month to floor could've been likely during that era. The economy wasn't in shambles like today, and interest rates (controlled by the Feds) were probably a lot higher. Thus 12% a year then was probable.

The $400K/month figure was casually given to me by my friend. It doesn't imply that it is a detailed figure EVERY MONTH, it was ballpark instead. Seriously, are you the auditor for this dealer? Then how do you know. How many VW's, Hyundai's or Lincolns did we move. The profit margins on all 3 brands vary. FYI, we moved primarily VW Jettas and Passats; Jettas had less then $1,500 profit typically, and Passats had around $1,700 on average. And you know what? We blew every unit out at invoice because VW's don't pull like crazy. This store was good, they paid the salesman $200 flats because if it was 20% after $500 pack, then they couldn't retain sales people.

Like I said, there's nothing wrong with negotiating a deal. But trying to take all the meat off the bone is going to lead to dealer kicking you out. We live in a capitalistic society, if you don't like the deal, then you got the freedom to walk out, you're not under duress.

BTW, I don't tip waiters nor waitresses who cop an attitude. I literally pay the bill and don't leave no change. :icon23:

Considering I've been running my own business for over 7 years, I'd say I have a decent grasp. When you consider almost every dealer within 150 miles of me (D.C/Baltimore area) is willing to accept at (or near) invoice (and still make around $1k in profit in doing so), making an additional $2500 over invoice with MSRP is a tidy profit, IMO... but your definition of "tidy" appears to be different. If your idea of a good deal is $1,300 over invoice, cheers to you, but it's not the best deal you could have gotten with hardly any extra work on your part by a long shot.


EDIT: Okay, I went back and read this reply before posting and it read aloud as being very harsh... definitely not my intention, so I've tried to modify it appropriately.


<chuckle> Sorry, not DavidYan, though I do believe he posted in one of my first threads here. You have written several long posts extolling the virtue of your beliefs, but when someone disagrees with you in a similarly long post it's superfluous? How am I displaying a thin skin? How is what I said extraneous (other than trying to make my point using a comparison about the waiter)? Or were all of those comments meant towards me only if I was DavidYan in disguise?

You stated numbers, and I stated numbers. The difference between what you and I posted is mine was based upon real-world figures, not what a friend told me as an off-the-cuff figure. Take two minutes to come up with some way, any way, you think a small dealership can use $400k/month... once you're done with that, explain how you came up with those numbers. No, I'm not the auditor, but common sense tells me those numbers don't add up, and I explained my reasoning why. The simple questions is, do you know many small dealerships that sell 7+ cars a day at MSRP? If so, then I would love to invest in them (and possibly steal away some of their sales team as they're GOOD). I will certainly admit that a 1%/month figure may have been possible in years past when rates skyrocketed, but I was speaking of the here and now where anything over 6%/yr would be a bad deal... Lou has already stepped in and admitted to a 5.5%, so we were both a bit off.

I worked in a bakery for a year, doesn't make me a pastry chef (though I do make a mean Napoleon)... you worked at a dealership for a few years, doesn't mean you understand where the money comes from or goes to (though you certainly may and just have a difficult time putting it into words). The "direct" experience I have is determining what a product costs the reseller, giving me useful information on what kind of margins I have to work with in making a deal... I don't have to read anything special on the net to understand that concept, I do it every day as part of my business. Sure, it helps to read some of those articles to learn the lingo and know where the money might be hidden, but I don't base my information just on Google, I also apply a healthy dose of common sense.

I'd say we would agree to disagree and leave it at that. I'm not suggesting everyone gouge the dealer for everything they can and expect the dealer to survive, but any less-than-ideal profit they make from an invoice sale should be compensated by the MSRP sales people chuckle about on here. We're lucky in that we have the internet these days, and we have each other to provide useful information. And I intend to use everything I can to get the best deal possible.

Where's the beer icon so we can share one...

^^^ these are facts! :iagree:

The numbers you had through USAA were great. I got a similar deal on mine through USAA. I worked through the internet dealers and was able to get mine for 36120.00 included the TTL out the door. Hopefully you'll be able to go back and make the good deal that it is. Good Luck!

Ok, so here is the update..... I called the dealer back up, and asked if they had any in a different color, and he told me they had one at another dealership, and they wouldn't give it up. So I go over to the other dealership (both cars are identical) (another 55 miles), and go through the whole test drive, etc... I then pull out the papers from USAA, and the written quote that the other dealership gave me. The sales manager wasn't too happy. As it stood with the other car, it was 16,984 out the door, in addition to my trade in. They responded back saying that they wanted 18250 and my trade in. I then explained I would take to car off the lot today for 17,500 , and kindly explained (as they saw), that an identical car was sitting 50 miles away for $1216.00 less, and that car additionaly had illumanated kick plates. I explained that I was willing to pay the extra 500 to them because I would prefer to have my first choice color, however, anything over that price, and it was just not worth it. They came back with 17989, and that was "their final offer". I spoke personally to the sales manager, and explained to him my reservation, and which point he stated to me that he could go down to 17750, and after that, he would have to explain to the owner why he let a car go for so cheap. I told him 17500 was my budget, and if he chose to accept it, I would have the cash in his hand by the end of the day. He was stuck on 17750, and I told him if he wasn't willing to come down $250.00, there would be no sale. I kindly excused myself, and left the dealership. I have no idea if they will call me back, probably not, but it kinda erks me that they wouldnt go down 250 to make a sale. That to me shows that a dealer would not want to work with you down the road if something where to occur. Am I just being stupid? Another night, without a Z!

$16,500 - where did that go??
 

Now you are willing to pay $17,500?? What happened to $16,500 at the other dealer?? You are not making much sense to me.:shakes head:

And this is why I don't sell cars ;)

Its a tough business...There is so little on the table sometimes that it just doesn't make sense for the dealer to let it go a certain amount. The last thing they want to see is you walk out the door without your new car, but it has to make sense from a business standpoint as well!

I'd say your best deal was at the first dealership...hopefully they haven't sold it already. I used to work in real estate and I can't tell you how many times I gave people a great deal on a new home...they decided to think about it (shop around for a bigger better deal) and by the time they came back it was sold. Then they'd get upset with me cuz it wasn't available anymore!

Yes, they do have the other car at the dealership still, and they are still trying to locate me one in graphite. I was willing to pay the extra cash because the other dealership had the Z that had everything that I wanted on the car. It does surprise me that they wouldn't budge $250.00, and that one dealership can offer me the same exact car for nearly $1,000 less. Who knows, I am waiting from a call at the dealership saying they are willing to come down $250.00!

Additionally, the first dealership I went to has 3 other cars to chose from in that price, but none are in the color I want...