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I haven't seen an actual weight comparison, but some have stated that wet CF hoods are heavier than the OEM aluminum hood. If that's the case the reason for getting

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Old 02-26-2012, 05:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I haven't seen an actual weight comparison, but some have stated that wet CF hoods are heavier than the OEM aluminum hood. If that's the case the reason for getting wet CF is for looks only.
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I haven't seen an actual weight comparison, but some have stated that wet CF hoods are heavier than the OEM aluminum hood. If that's the case the reason for getting wet CF is for looks only.
I believe that is correct
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I haven't seen an actual weight comparison, but some have stated that wet CF hoods are heavier than the OEM aluminum hood. If that's the case the reason for getting wet CF is for looks only.
That sounds reasonable--aluminum is pretty light. The weight comparison would certainly vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and if their quality control is weak (it could be if they're letting parts get that heavy), a part made on one day would vary some from another just because the guy spraying the resin might have sprayed a little more that time. Or they might have two guys on staff, and one is less experienced.

The strength of the CF part won't change much based on the resin content as most of the load bearing capability is driven by the ply count and ply thickness, i.e. how much actual carbon fiber is in the part. The extra resin won't really hurt much except weight. It may also improve the part's impact resistance.

With UV damage, the resin is what yellows, and the way higher quality parts combat that is simply by having a UV resistant compound added to the plastic itself (rather, they buy a more costly plastic that includes the additive as part of it). The UV compounds typically resist a finite amount of UV, meaning that if you park them in the Florida sun they'll last a lot less time than if you parked them in Minnesota.

Another approach for UV resistance--which any manufacturer could take--is to add a thin layer of UV resistant plastic on the outer surface. Kind of like throwing the 3M stuff on top. The idea would be to add a transparent plastic that has excellent UV resistance.

Also, spraying on a UV absorbent coating all the time would work if you're diligent. The problem is it may rub off easily. I think Armor All has Tinuvin in it, does anyone know?
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