Been using Redline with engine,tranny and Differential for 3 years now.
Less engine noise, smooth shifting no feel of metal to metal contact when shifting,

Ditto

Thanks for good info. I've also heard about the redline and other good brands too.

Frankly I'm not an auto expert at all that for me I only depend on Nissan for every service/maintenance/oil change.. etc never been to the cheaper like JiffyLube.

I just feel very comfortable and so good that the 370Z's manufacturer Nissan is so trustworthy. also good for peace of my mind. I trust my service advisor that he is so honest and works hard smart !!

well.. feel good that I'm with Nissan. Not only for 370Z, Nissan is my best brand that I always recommend to my friends to purchase.

That's it. I'm just a Nissan fan. :D

Well keep one thing in mind...dealers hire a ton of $8-$10hr whoevers to do their tires and oil changes. They normally have maybe one A tech that will never see your car. Service writers are also anyone looking for a job that usually don't know their butt hole from an arm pit. Everyone there I can guarantee doesn't care about Nissan let alone your Z. It's just a job, plan and simple! The best work you'll ever get on your car is from you. Or a least being on here find some local buddies to help you out or by chance befriend the A tech some how. This only comes from years of experience in the business. I wouldn't trust a dealer as far as I can throw them. Also...you seem very hell bent on following what Nissan tells you to. I'd do my own research on this. They tell you what to do safely for legal purposes. They can't tell you to break in a motor properly because of lawsuits and people killing themselves. Same goes with bedding in brakes. I'm not saying stop what you're doing, I'm just saying think outside the box and dont drink so much of their coolaid haha.

Just a quick example, Subaru swore by a 7500 mile oil change or 3750 under extreme conditions but forgot to test the 3 micro screens in banjo bolts on the turbos and else where. The long changes and people listening caused a lot of blown issues when the screens clog. Now they say ALL turbo motors are extreme and to change at 3750. People on forums also knew this way before and removed the screens. I think this a good example of don't alway listen to the manufacturer and keep your ear to the ground here from the people that know.

He's getting the oil changed and services done. I don't believe everyone at all the dealers is out to get you....LOL I don't use the Nissan oil either. I will only use a Nissan oil filter for my own reasons.

Hmm, I see your silicon levels are well in line with what I would expect. The Ops above appear to be higher. Hence, I was hinting at a leak somewhere causing unfiltered air to pass into the engine.

yeah

not biased, keep balanced.

I agree, not sarcastic. really seriously.

I'll keep your recommendation.

Thanks for the info buddy :D

No I'm not saying that, I'm saying be careful when you do. Don't expect the royal treatment from a bunch of kids.

Well this was a WRX with a k&N 3" cone. A Z has 2 of them so maybe they'll be higher since you are getting more air in.

Wondered if anyone had a report with regular dino oil? I imagine that there are some people use regular dino oil on this motor. I believe some dealers use dino oil on the g37's. Not to say it is good or bad, just the fact that they do.

Check out bob the oil guy or something forum. You'll find more on oil you'll care to see.

Gonna change oil this week. Hopefully my motor likes Mobil 1! Judging by that oil analysis maybe not so much. hmmm

the reason I asked about dino oil is because I want to see if it is just as good as the expensive oil if the change interval is 3k-4k miles. i have heard many think that the good dino oil is just as good with short change interval.

I've personally used mobile-1 full synthetic for decades on all my cars with good results.

not sure how significant those stats are relative to the real engine longevity. While it is a different engine, my friend changed oil (dino) every 15-16k on his Camry and have no oil related engine issues at over 250k miles.

Depends. Dino oil breaks down really fast. The best to worst list is basically how long the oil stays oil with use under low to high extremes. Do a track day or get your oil above 200+ degrees and expect the dino oil to kill your motor fast. Redline on the other hand you'll be able to use for the 24 hours of Le Mans. As the oil breaks down and shears off that's when you want your micro lubricants to be there. Again Redline kills Mobil 1 for example. RL uses a better base and more Mo, Z, and Ph. For DD I still wouldn't use dino oil as it won't be synthetic. You still want the motor to not wear out.

And I believe it. But do a compression test and dyno it. This is why motors lose power over time. I bet it's no where near stock.

That's a Toyota. That's made by people who know how to build cars. They fix themselves

I am referring to just DD. Tracking is a completely different ball game and I do believe that you should use the best oil there is due to the extreme condition. I don't know exactly how a good dino comparing to a synthetic under normal driving condition with relatively short change interval. I use M-1 full synthetic just in case and it is just a few dollars more per change (diy).

I am sure there were tests done by the independent labs in a control environment. I would really like to see the results myself.

i take that you're being facetious... Our motor is just fine.

So this quickly devolved into our 10001st oil thread as expected. :p

Regarding diff types of oil synth vs Dino. If here talking about a dd car, even the z, IMO it doesn't matter and as long as you change the oil at regular intervals, you should be able to get 250k miles no problem assuming no manufacturing defects.

If you track, then that's when oil types, diff weights of oil etc start to matter IMO.

250K ?

not 300~500K with best maintenance and oil change ??

just wonder :D

:stirthepot:


:icon17:

stir the pot?

you mean that you diss.ent from my opinion ??

I'm sure those #s would be fine too in relation to the example I posted above.

Oh, and now ibtl.

I'm intetested in that engine compression test that one day I want to take it.

1) I saw a youtube about how to do the self engine compression test, but I don't think I can do that. Where can I get the test then?

2) How much usually it costs?, I mean the compression test.

3) Sometimes I feel like it showes a bit slower response on my full-acceleration than before. Do you think the test result can answer to that feeling? Even now I'm not sure whether it really goes slower or just it's by my subjective.

Would Redline be better than Nissan's Ester?

No no no, you need mobil 1.

Both being ester, no. Redline having more molybdenum, yes.

I use Wesson oil myself, with just a drop or two of Virgin Olive oil. ONLY the Italian genuine Olive Oil, mind you.



J/K, I use PYB, it's Moly levels are thru the roof, and I change at 3-3.5K intervals. I'll never go to track, and 5K is the highest my car tach has seen, and that was "S Shift" thinking I was going to 3rd instead of 5th at highway speeds.
I enjoy oil discussions and none of us is ever smart enough to stop learning something once in a while, even about oil.
Only problem is sometimes the Mods have to close the thread because of bitter arguments erupting.

:confused:

Why? You have to rev this car to make power.

Nothing wrong with that logic at all....PYB is a very good product. I would suggest hitting 7K once in a while: the car wants it. It really does. :)

SN oils are blends these days: have to be to meet the specs. Its not regular 'dino' anymore...major improvements in lube industry over time, we benefit.

its very subjective (and often ignorant) to think/state with authority that one oil is 'better' then another. This often comes up with synthetics. Just because one blend may use more PAO or Esters does not make it better. They all are just different formulations (which are proprietary to the blender).

For example Redline can be very shear stable which is great in racing conditions, but has a much lighter add pack: so running it on the street means you need to change it more often. Does that sounds like a smart use of oil and money? Not when there are better add packs and shear stable products out there for the street at a lower cost :)

Folks do realize the total number Zs and other 3.7L VVT cars out there that get 3-5k stock dealer bulk 5/30 oil changes in them and are perfectly fine?

Myself, I have been trending my Z on BITOG.com in the UOA forum. Few others there too, some G37s if folks want to see just some examples.

I do it out out of pure geek factor/curiosity. The $20-30 spent on a UOA, if I was truly concerned, would be better served in just changing the oil more often. :D

- b

I had excellent Blackstone reports running Redline 5W-30 in my 2009 Z. However, the cost of the Redline went up quite a bit and I have been able to buy several 6 pack cartons of the Pennzoil Ultra (not the new Ultra Platinum) Euro Spec oil on Amazon.com for several dollars less per quart. It has performed comparably with the Redline in the Blackstone resports. Additionally, my consumption went down from about 1.25 quarts per 5000 miles to about a half quart between changes with the Ultra. Not sure why but I like it. The Nissan Ester oil is OK, but it needs to be about $6 per quart for what it is. You can do much better for the money.

my UOA's seem to be much better....and mine sees a few track days/year using pennzoil ultra platinum

Excellent post..... Thanks!!