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Ive never seen mine hit 220, it gets to a notch just below 220F max thus far. What are the notches, 5 or 10F each?
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#6 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: 10aC
Posts: 978
Drives: Taco
Rep Power: 78 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Whatever new magic parts are installed I know the oil on my 2014 stays cooler a little longer than on my 2011. I actually bought into the snake oil charm of installing a 25 row oil cooler on a DD while living in Maryland and removed it after my neurosis ate away at my sanity that one of the lines would start leaking and I'd lose all oil/blow the motor. Needless to say I never overtemped the oil in 98 degree east cost heat and most likely will not in Tennessee heat as a daily driver.
__________________
![]() Bitch ex wife's scumbag lawyer made sure this went away. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 11,018
Drives: 11 Nissan 370 M6
Rep Power: 1913655 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have the 25 row cooler obviously Im in FL.
Normal DD 180F on hard driving 220's up. Just get the 19 row and block it off during winter times. For some reasons the Z feels sluggish and engine sounds crappy on a slow phased traffic mid afternoon its like the car is being choked. Most high performance engine hates to be driven slow as it needs the air to cool it off. Besides the Z is prone to suffer engine heat soak in traffic on a warm weather. That is where I felt the difference of having the oil cooler. The car still drives smooth. Somebody also suggested here change your oil to a synthetic one. I use redline seems to work in harmony with the engine. Last edited by Zoren 370; 06-30-2014 at 08:39 PM. |
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