Very cool.

:iagree:

Yesterday, the package from RJM Performance arrived and I eagerly tore it open to see first hand my new adjustable clutch pedal. Very nicely engineered and built to withstand a nuclear explosion. Installation took a little less than 1.5 hours. I read up on the instructions several times during the waiting period and had a good understanding of how everything would fit together. I wasn't sure how the adjustable fulcrum worked, but seeing it in action made perfect sense. This clutch pedal really does make a huge difference in driveability! So smooth and linear with a broader engagement zone. Just perfect! With this pedal and its controlled range of clutch fluid movement, coupled with a thorough thermal insulation of the clutch lines, I have done what I can to prevent being inconvenienced by a leaking CSC. Knock on wood...

:tup:

I've driven my Z three days since getting the exhaust removed and ECU flashed back to stock. Today it fired up and immediately threw the P2A03 code along with U1000.

Yay.

I'll pray for your sanity. Anything electrical is the worst.

Yeah, I had an older pioneer so didn't have to reprogram, just wish I had the bluetooth buttons.

Curbed one of my NIMSO rims. :eek: :mad: :( :cry:

Looks like I'm going to be trying:

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-rash-fix.html

so i went out for a quick spin to re-torque my lugs on my photoshopped WEDS wheels. had a good time. got home, plugged my car in (battery tender). i checked back a few hrs later, the tender was still showing red = charge. :wtf:

i checked the voltage at the battery terminals 13.71v which is correct as far as charge voltage, but should've floated within 15min of me plugging it in. i pulled my other tender off my G and hooked it up to my Z. flashed green (80%+ charged) within 5min which was expected, then floated in 15min.

tossed the old tender i was running on my Z (10 yrs old?) and ordered a new one. :D

for reference, float voltage for the battery tender is roughly around 13.1721343201105428323v. :icon17:


:ugh:

sorry to hear.. but this maybe opportunity. you should run the 13' - 14' nismo wheels. they would look so much nicer on ur ride.

That sucks and that stuff does not really work. Take them here:

Mobile Rim Repair in Raleigh, NC | Kwicksilver Rim Repair

They will make them perfect again.

That is what happens when you use tools made from Photoshop.

I am actually rather fond of the 15" NISMO wheels. Love them in fact, which makes me want to do a Tyler Durden and beat my own *** all the more for that moment of inattention.

It does appear professional rim repair is a better way to go though still on fence between mobile or taking it somewhere. And staying far far away from any consideration of TE-37SL that will have me sleeping on the couch.

Or just get a new wheel and tire mounted. Just pull the tpms out during the mount. That's what I do and keep the one with the tire as a spare. :)

It will surely be worth it! :tup: