So lets end this thread as there are tons and tons and tons of them.

Track you car or boosted=need oil cooler, if not THERE IS NO NEED. :tiphat:

i live here in vegas. i always fret a bit when the temp gets up to 220, as it does regularly in the warmer months (230 max, so far) and even in our moderate winter it will climb to 220 slowly with just a bit of spirited driving for a short drive...

when on the FW it will drop...in fact, when i ran down to tony's for my pipes the temps REALLY dropped, to the point where i wondered if something was wrong...maybe it was, since it's so far below optimum running temp...

it was on a fresh change of redline. btw, my oil always darkens too soon, methinks...

Z1 stated the temp you see is the oil leaving the cooler. Its going over 212 in the motor. The question is are you driving long enough to heat up and vaporize moisture. Short trips possibly not.

can someone introduce the "search" button to the OP, there are many of his questions could be answered by that. :icon17:

Exactly. Modern oils will run all day long at 250 degrees without breakdown.

The search button SUCKS.

Advanced search work for me every time, it may take a little while to find what you want. It's better than opening more and more duplacite theads that admin will combine into the others like it any way.

BINGO... nailed it. So many people miss the fact that an internal combustion engine has H2O as a by-product of the combustion. Water in the oil is a contaminant and has to be removed by heating the oil to at least close a temp of 212... a temp of at least north of 180°F on your gauge after a cooler install is where you want to be as the gauge reads the oil temp out of the cooler. Going into the cooler, it should be about 20°F hotter, which means water condensation in the oil is being vaporized out.

Good read jcosta...:tup:

I was seeing above 260 degrees at the track even with a 25 row on my 2010. I went to a 34 row over the winter but had to develop a complete shroud for the cooler (in addition to the thermostat) to get the temps up in the winter months. I imagine I will need to run a partial shroud on the street even in the summer to keep the temps up where they need to be. I will be interesting to see.

I asked Z1 as I was concerned about the oil being too cool as well and I was assured that north of a reading of 180°F, the oil would be greater than 212°F inside the motor (I don't know how temps vary across the flow path of the oil).

Having said that, I have no problem reaching 180°F with a block off plate in the winter at 35°F ish ambient. On a warmer winter day, I see 220°F. Road use, not track.

From a thread I read when I was planning my build and can no longer find, the gauge reads the oil at its coldest point oil cooler or not. So the gauge is always 10-20 degrees cooler than what the inside of your motor sees. So if you see 230, your motor is really seeing 240-250. That's higher than I'm comfortable with.

I tried to find that thread, but a search here for "oil cooler" returns more threads than I'm willing to sift through.

Nope you should still be between the 180 and 220 mark. During highway cruise, the fact that you will not be on the throttle at all times allows the oil to stay cool. I think stop-go in the summer time is where I finally start to see the needle creep past 220. Never been past 230.

That would be very interesting to know for sure. I will search for it later, thanks for the heads up. I hate the search feature on this site.....it's awful. I have more luck finding specific things on this site using Google through the web.

Yeah, it would have been from before 2012 for sure. I got back hundreds of results and pretty much said "**** it" after I looked for a minute or two. :rofl2: