Baradar-e man.
We know you hate the car, hate the transmission, hate Nissan, and how you wish you had bought something else, no need to jump in on EVERY thread and mention how shìt your car is... Know that YOU leased your car. It IS a lease, so you will leave it. And you can lease it out on lease trader and such.
It's why you get responses like:

:iagree:


THIS:

And as much as you're a member of the clan, I am starting to agree

The world according to "JUNGLEZ"


Honda has a penis, Nissan has a vagina!!! Ahhhhhahahaha

Yep. Most MTs capable of handling some power are clunky to some degree.

Once you remove the helper spring the 6MT feels nice and is on par with all of the other manual transmissions in similarly priced sports cars.

I'd rather have a clunky transmission that can take some power and abuse than a silky smooth one that explodes when you give it more power than stock.

I would love to drive a z with this helper spring removed. All I know is after driving integras preludes m3"s s2000. This manual is so sloppy . Will a heavier shift knob help any?

Remove that spring ASAP! The clutch pedal will have some play to it near the top but you will get used to it. MUCH BETTER IMO.

No, just pull the helper spring. It's a simple DIY job.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...er-spring.html

You've bitched and moaned this long and you haven't even TRIED taking the spring out? It makes it 1000000000 times better to drive.
And yes, a heavier knob will make shifts smoother, that's why a lot opt for the TK one, or you can get an equally weighted knock off

Seriously? A year of nonstop bitching and he hasn't tried something that takes 20 minutes and a pair of needle nose pliers, and is completely reversible on that glorious, blessed day when he turns in the car?

LOL What is it about his history of posting on this forum that would lead you to believe that he might actually be proactive about trying to solve one of his complaints about the vehicle? God forbid it actually works and leaves him without a reason to complain...

:iagree: We need a sticky notice...

:icon18:


Indeed the spring helps a lot. However, I still get some herky-jerky shifts, but that's because I'm well below 4,000 RPM and I'm trying too hard to be smooth (thinking about it), or since I change shoes a lot, I still have to get used to the shoes (takes a few stop lights and such) - but that's just me I think.

OP, def. try the 7AT - it's faster and more convenient in traffic. Plus, paddles are fun. :ugh2: Paddle shifting too.

No I meant I have it in drive when it first take off and let it shift from 1 to 2.

I just bought my Z and I am reading this thread and hearing everybody talk about this helper spring....Can anybody give me some insight on how much it costs to get removed? And do I just go to Nissan to remove it?

$0 to remove. Takes maybe 5-10min and you can do it yourself.

Here's the thread.

Yes, do it yourself. I linked to the DIY thread in a previous post.

I didn't replace the spring, just removed it altogether.

:gtfo2: Back to your cage!

I doesn't cost a thing to DIY... Absolutely DO NOT go to your dealer for this mod. Hell, they probably won't even do it for you if the car is under warranty. Otherwise, they'll probably charge you their hourly rate for an hour minimum for something that should literally take you <5 min to do yourself.

Mustang was kind enough to provide a link just a few posts back. Here it is again http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...er-spring.html

OUR cage!

:iagree:

I'll bring the paddles. :ugh2:

Paddles are fun. :hello:

If you try to DIY and can't do it, I'd do it for you for a six pack.

The key is not to struggle. Just let it happen.

:icon14:

Really, just pull the retaining clip with needle nose pliers. Then, push the clutch pedal back and use your flat head screwdriver to pry the pin out. Once you get it started you should be able to pull it all the way out, then carefully remove the assembly.

Verify you like the pedal feel without the spring, then remove the top part of the assembly (so the spring guide isn't dangling).

Thanks guys! Hey chuck ill let you know!

I'm not sure how this thread got derailed to talk about the clutch helper spring, but the OP was asking about jerkiness from 1 to 2, which is unrelated to the helper spring issue (which to me, is all about better clutch feel in 1st when starting from a stop).

The jerkiness from 1-2 is because he's probably trying to shift fast at lower RPM. In order not to be jerky, you need to shift slower from 1-2 when your RPM are low ( <3K or so). Above 4K and you can shift as fast as you want with no jerkiness. Basically, drive slow -> shift slow, drive fast -> shift fast.

It's also easier to modulate the clutch switching gears with the spring out. You can feel everything a little better.

Actually feeling the clutch helps with shifts. 1-2 can be jerky if you are letting the clutch out too quickly.

:iagree:

More feel = better operation.

:iagree:

Barely-There makes it feel more natural.

What i don't get is... If your explanation is the solution to jerking sensation when shifting? Then this is the most pointless issue on the forum. Any car shifted at high RPM has torque jerk. Why is this being singled out on the Z??? Clutch feel is definitely more of a performance issue vs so called "jerky-shifting"

Just jerk it.

:ugh:

Jerk is a result of user error. If the combination of clutch and lever operation is not smooth, you will jerk. You basically become a jerker if you can't do it smooth. 1-2, jerkin' all the time.

Removal of the helper spring allows one to be smooth, which helps in preventing jerk.

Not saying you can't shift jerk free with the OEM spring, but it's much easier and more consistent without it.

So is it possible the user is a jerk? I mean...:wtf2:
Maybe it's just me, but I kinda like the jerky 1-2 feeling.

Without proper clutch application you can jerk the car. But i didn't find the Z to have excessive jerkiness there. Just a very mild one. I jerk more when shifting from high up in the ranges over low 2500 rpm shifts.

:iagree: I rather jerk the car when driving aggressive. Moar fun!!!!!

It doesn't jerk excessively hard, per se, it's just much easier to jerk than other cars as a result of the crappy stock clutch operation.

Like, stock for stock, my 5.0 was way smoother. Much better clutch operation and therefore way harder to jerk. The Z, however, can be jerked so hard and so easily if you aren't uber careful with the stock helper spring. With it removed, however, it shifts like the Mustang. Smooth and harder to jerk.

You must be a serial jerker.

Pulled or jerked should be the real question in this thread now...

I think the proper term is "tug" or "tugged." Do you prefer tugged or jerked?

Tugging seems a bit more gentile than jerking.