Jack Stand Question
 

So I've decided to do my own oil changes and perhaps tackle some bolt-ons in the future. I bought two pairs of jack stands to get the car off the ground. Then while unpacking them, I see the label on the stands which says "should be used in pairs on ONE END OF THE VEHICLE ONLY. Should not be used on both ends together."

WTF? I was hoping I could get the car off the ground and level to empty the oil pan more thoroughly. Do you guys put jack stands on all four corners or just a pair in the front?

On a side note, it's a little creepy crawling under the jacked up car...lots of creaks and groans when it was going up. Boy would it suck if it came back down when I was under it...:eek:

That would suck, talk about a world of :crying: lol

Just buy a set of Ramps....I used these for years before buying my lift. The car does not need to be level for most access and maintenance..

Stands are always handy to have and there may be a time when you need all four wheels off the ground. A good jack, 4 jack stands and a set of ramps will cover most of your needs..

Well, given the small issue of clearing the front chin spoiler with ramps, I went with a floor jack and jack stands. I feel committed now. But, I assume your advice still holds...just put jack stands in the front and forget lifting the rear at the same time.

I've never seen that before. Is it because they're under-rated weight-wise or something, or don't have very stable bases? Most of the standard jack stands available at auto parts stores or Sears or whatever work fine for holding up all 4 corners of the car. You do have to be careful about placement though: they need to be placed somewhere that they can seat solidly, and that's design to carry the car's load and not damage anything.

Somewhere on these forums, someone showed how to mod a hockey puck so that you can use the "edge" mounting points that were designed for the trunk emergency jack with regular jacks/stands.

Personally, I set my front ones as far forward as you can go on the two main frame rails under the car just before they curve upwards (these are the obvious wide pair of solid metal beams running the length of the car, considerably inboard from the outer edges), and the rears on the rear suspension arms (like you can see in over here in this swaybar install thread: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tion-rear.html )

As far as getting the car up goes, even my current low-profile jack won't reach under the front spoiler far enough to get to the recommended jacking point under the center. I've lately been using a hybrid approach when I need all 4 wheels off the ground (like brake-related stuff): I drive onto my rhino ramps using boards to assist clearance, then jack the front of the car up off the ramps and switch the front to jack-stands, and then go around to the back and jack that up and put jack stands under it.

(I really need to just get a lift :p)

My jack stands are the run-of-the-mill Torin 2 ton version. They have the 'teeth' on the adjustable pillar that the car rests on along with a metal pin as a secondary safety.

My guess is that I just read the fine print, but perhaps everyone uses these on the 4 corners regardless. Since the jack won't make it under the front lift point, I guess I'll be doing the two front corners individually and then the back as a single lift at the end.

Anyone have a pic they can label with where they place the jack for lifting each front corner? Wstar, is the beam you're talking about the same one as the 'lip' the manual says to place the jack on? Looking at the little circular disc on my floor jack, I can easily get the disc's edges to seat in the grooves on the edge where the emergency jack is supposed to seat.

You just need some low profile approach extensions (or some 2x lumber)
Raceramps makes a nice (although pricey) low approach ramp set-up. I've had these (some cheesemo brand) for 30 years..

http://images105.fotki.com/v461/phot...SC03414-vi.jpg

Nice, though my wife would rather me risk being crushed under the car with jack stands than have me bring those ramps into our condo to store them!

No, the beams I'm talking about that I use for the front are way inside from those outer edge lips where the emergency jack is meant to mount. You will see them, they have squarish edges and make a long run down the length of the car before disappearing upwards towards the engine bay. They're the actual frame of the car. I like them because, being the frame itself, they can handle the weight fine without deforming, and they give a nice solid flat surface that's just the right width for my jackstand heads.

Any of you guys know if you need to have all 4 off the ground for a CBE and/or HFC install or if you can get by with the front or rear up at one time.

So if you weren't jacking the front of the car from a center point, would you place the floor jack on the 'edge' where the manual states first...then slide the jack stands under the other beams you mention? Those little egdes don't seem all that robust, but I don't know where else my low profile floor jack will reach.

Just looking at it today, it looks like it would be challenging even with all 4 off the ground. Then again, my clearance is only about 14"...couldn't afford a jack and stands that will reach 22".

I did all of my CBE work with just the front on ramps, but the rear part is a bit challenging that way, you have to slide back under some very cramped space for the rear stuff. I got out from under the car and did the final flanges (on the Stillen, back by the muffler) from behind rather than underneath.

That edge is perfectly fine robustness-wise, when mated with the emergency jack itself, or a jack or jack stand that replicates the same surface design close enough (that is, it needs to be a pretty small surface with a deep groove down the center to avoid putting any weight on that actual lip). My jacks and stands don't fit correctly there though, and I haven't tried the hockey puck method (which is basically, cut a groove down the middle of a hockey puck and use that between your jack and the lip where the e-jack goes).

Very usefull thread, as I am thinking about mods and diy oil change, I had the same questions as Spearfish and Steve. So thanks Modshack and Wstar for the info :)

The hockey puck... I was able to not bother cutting a groove in it for the pinch rails. The pinch rails will kinda cut into the hockey puck anyways and the hockey pucks are actually quite rubbery and will compress and bend a bit.

BTW, i just checked right now since I need a new jack cuz my old Kragen jack started to squirt out jack oil when I was lifting the Z up the other night to put in the sway bars, but with the hockey puck acting as a cushion for the pinch rails, the minimum jack height on a stock Z with the sport package tires is about 5.25". That's for the front pinch rails. I forgot to measure at the rear pinch rails, but i'd guess they're probably similar.

Safety note: Whether using two or four jack stands, always give the car a good shake to make sure the car is sitting solid on the stands before crawling under. I also leave the floor jack under the car as a back-up should one of the stands fail for some reason.

I think there are only 4 jack-points listed in the manual - if you're putting the car on 4 jack stands...where are you putting the jack?

In the manual, there are actually 4 jack or jackstand points (the ones along the edges of the car which require the special emergency jack, or something to adapt it for use with a normal jack or stand, like the hockey puck thing), as well as two lifting points (one in the center rear, one in the center front). The confusion comes from the fact that of the first 4, they only show a picture of the two on one side of the car, the other side of the car is implied.

But in any case, there are other valid points to place jackstands, you just have to make sure that you place them at structurally sound places (so that the weight of the car doesn't destroy the car part the jack or jack-stand is hitting), and that the car is stable when you're done (as above, make sure it doesn't shake or tip easily, and a backup jack isn't a bad idea either).

Do you have any info on the center jacking points? (unless it's in the manual and I missed it) - I'm thinking those are what I'll use, then drop the stands under the recommended points.


Hockey puck eh? I guess that'll work.

They're in the manual in the GI (General Info) section. There's pictures of both the side-edge stand points and the center jacking points.

Yeah a hockey puck with a groove carved in it.

Thanks, I'll check it out when I get home.

I meant the Service Manual of course, not the owner's manual you have at home. It's posted here in PDF format, in the forum about service manuals :)

My stupid jack doesn't go high enough to really do anything more than an oil or tire change....doh!

Looks like bolt-ons will be a chore for my mechanic.

wstar- could you post a copy of center jacking points?

Here you go...

Am I correct with what I think I'm seeing - the crossmember under the engine is the front jack point, and the differential is the one for the rear?

I just had a fun time changing my oil today. My ramps were getting pushed away by the bumper and the jack I have wont fit under the sides so I had to use the e-jack and throw some jack stands under there. I def see a scissor lift in my future!

As for installing a cat back the easiest thing other than being on a lift for me was I back the car up with the rear wheels on the ramps, then chock the fronts and go at it with a crawler.

ive been using the Diff for the back, i was curious where the proper front jack point is.

I tried getting my jack under the car this evening (finally!), and no go.

I guess I'll just get me some ramps. I can load those in the front, and jack up the rear if/when I do an exhaust swap.

At this point, I would recommend ramps over jack/jackstands unless you're going 'all in' on a top notch jack that will get you 20+ inches off the ground. My jack only goes to 14.25 and I can only get the jackstands in at close to their lowest setting. I'm able to change the oil, but everything is still in my face.

Ive been looking at jacks and found this one @ Northern Tool

Min lift height 3.5 in
Max lift height 21.375 in

My garage is really cramped right now and I have a gravel driveway so it looks like Im going to have to half *** it for a while.

I've got a low profile jack by Craftsman and the rear and sides are fine but the front is not even close.

Good to know, and looking at the pics of it on Sears' website, I thought what you posted...

So much for sub-$100 for a jack that would work - lol...

I'll use ramps. If I need to pull a wheel (brakes, etc) I can go up on the ramp, then use my jack to lift it off the ramp(s), yank the ramp(s), and put jackstands under it.

I just gotta buy some...


Anyone got the ramps from Griot's Garage?
Low Profile Ramps with Extension Kit - Jacks & Stands - In Your Garage - Griot's Garage

Griot Garge ramps
 

I did, but haven't tried using the ramps with the 370Z yet (2K mileage). If your garage floor is painted, the ramps will slide unless you add a rubber mat under them.

Typically, in my 350Z I just reached back from the front of the car to r&r the oil filter, oil drain plug. I have floor jacks (3-ton) & floor creeper as well and have used them numeous times over the years; however, the height is limited to lying on you back.

I can't wait for my 4 car garage addition and my 2-post car lift to be finished!

I have a set of those. I'm not totally thrilled with them. The bump stops at the end are not big enough so it is possible to drive off the end of them (I think, haven't done it myself). And they are narrower than our tires, so lining them up is a bit of a chore single-handed.

Just my $.02

Well, I gave those ramps a go, and, not what I was expecting. They did the job, and, you CAN get them to line up, just the chin spoiler still catches (and mine became dislodged on exit) - I had about 1/5th the drivers side tire off the ramp, but it was solid.

Skid across the floor enough to where I just used the lip for my garage floor to hold them in place, while my wife adjusted them to get them lined up.

By that time the oil was piping hot (to skin) (150-160), and I let it sit for a bit...but not long enough - lol...

I have a sears jack, it's been good thus far (several years and a number of uses)

Still, I make sure the jack isn't the sole point of failure. Anyone that does....well, fill in the blank!

Jack stands...NO, Ramps...YES