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I have a 2010 Z, built before 6/20 (Not sure what the difference is between before/after 6/20 builds but anyways) and have had (knock on wood) Zero issues with the Steering lock...
Is it something that if I took it to the dealer and explained quite a few Z's have had this issue, can you/will you do something about it so that I don't have to worry about this? Or is it something that can only be fixed when it breaks? |
Dealers only fix things when they break b/c they have to send back the defective parts.
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k so let me get this straight there is a steering lock fuse issue and a steering lock failure issue which both can be prevented if I take the fuse out and do the harness fix it yourself?
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I still don't understand why it isn't covered under your warranty unless you only have the remaining power-train....and not the extended bumper to bumper. Was the car and/or warranty purchased through a Nissan dealership? If it wasn't, then you're shyt out of luck and will have to bite the bullet until Nissan finally does a recall. This is kind of the risk involved when buying any used car...especially a sports car. Parts and repairs will cost more than you think and something will break eventually. This is pretty much the reason why I bought a then new Z instead of a used Porsche....plus an extended warranty. A higher price tag has nothing to do with overall reliability. Even Ferraris and Lambos break down.
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My '12 has something wrong with trunk hatch release where as I click it once and it pops slightly but doesn't unlock so I have to click it again to get it to unlock fully then kind of have to force it up, very minimally, but enough to where it feels like I shouldn't have to be doing it.
Then again I'm either too lazy or it doesn't bother me enough to get it fixed. |
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Thanks for that! :tiphat: |
I *hate* being stranded, but I admid that I also love upgrading broken parts. So far I've stayed ahead of the breakdown curve by pre-replacing all the stuff that commonly fails.
-aftermarket clutch slave. (did the master at same time just to be sure) -pulled steering lock fuse first thing -upgraded clutch and flywheel my 25k used clutch seemed burnt when I bought the car. -have oil cooler on order -thinking of upgrading the rear diff to something more bulletproof. so far no breakdowns, but you are right, it takes a little getting used to a car that tends to break more than a DD. I always tell myself mechanical failures are a good chance to upgrade weak systems... otherwise maybe I'd be driving a camery or something. |
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my hatch needs help sometimes too, but its not annoying enough that ive fixxed it. |
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'Nuff said. |
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all you do is turn on the car so the lock disengages, then pull the fuse (There is a ton of how to threads on how to do it exactly) your settring lock will not reingage and the microswsitch which tells the starter starter logic it is okay to start will be permenantly pressed. 3 fixes. you can: 1. pull the fuse (very easy)(reccomended) 2. install wire kit (more complecated as you have to wait for the part) 3. Cut the brown wire (much like pulling the fuse but a bit more permenant) there are at least 5 threads describing this very easy (5minute) fix. I reccomend pulling your fuse (it is reversable and very very easy to do even for a total non mechanic.) |
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