You can't just take the lock out and leave it out try tapping it with a hammer turn the key on then take the fuse out.

My bad I didn't mean I actually took out the fuse yet, ima try it after work.

This sucks, can i get a refund?

09 pulled at 27k to avoid the possibility of failure. 5k miles later no issues with pulled fuse.

I highly recommend you pull if you have an early model 370.

Great to hear it!!!!:tup:

Thank you for confirming my remedy works the way I know it should.:tiphat:

Man, I wish I knew about this earlier. I need to follow this forum more thoroughly. My steering lock died earlier this week. Towed it to the dealer. $1600 to fix.

The service techs told me the proved that it was in fact the failed steering lock by putting in a steering lock from an altima and "running the tests which pass with the working lock, but fail with my lock."

I told them if they can get it started, that they should pull the fuse then we'll be good to go. They told me something about that not working because of some communication with either the BCM or ECU (can't remember which). I'm a car tech noob.

Does this make any sense, or should I push back on this?

They are Nissan techs and they have no Fvcking clue,:shakes head:
My discovery to remove the fuse has been argued since I recommend it and nobody has had any problems(except for a delay in starting which has not been proven to be related)if the Nissan techs studied these cars as much as we do they just may learn something.

It won't work because your lock has a switch inside which needs to be depressed (lock open) before you pull the fuse. The ultima lock will open and press the switch. Your busted one wont. Sorry dude.

pulled mine last week it was easy. the tech at the dealer said let him know when i find out what to do .so much for service dept.

The fuse that we have been removing supplies power to the locking pin drive motor in the SLU. The communication that they are talking about is powered from another source.

If you are comfortable removing a trim panel in the engine compartment, pulling the fuse is a pretty easy DIY job.

The fact that your service department is either ignorant of how the system works or is blowing smoke up your a$$, leads me to suggest finding another dealer - one that has worked on a few 370Zs before. From what I could tell, mine was the first Z my local service dept had seen. I quickly changed to another dealer.

So I'm confused. I think I'm getting conflicting comments here, but I may just be misunderstanding.

Surfdog are you saying that the idea of putting in the altima lock, getting the car into ACC, and pulling the fuse won't work?

And Baer and SouthArk are saying that it should work?

If it should work, then I'm going to push back on them with this idea.

I'd really like to not have to tow my car to another shop :(

If they have already replaced the SLU, just follow one of the procedures for removing the fuse.
You have to have a SLU installed, with working electronics and the microswitches in the proper position, for anything to work. Once the locking pin is retracted and the microswitches are correct, you can remove the fuse. This will disable the motor that drives the locking pin and switches. With the pin in the retracted/unlocked position, the system is happy - it doesn't look for a transition from locked to unlocked.

I don't think the dealer replaced anything yet.

They did a 'test' with a working Altima slu to confirm his slu is dead.

I think the question is, will the fuse pull method work with his broken slu. It won't. Even if he did the fuse pull while the working Altima slu is installed, I don't think his car would start with his slu back in, because his slu is in the wrong position.

I could be wrong but that's what makes sense based on reading the threads.

He could try to start his car one last time (this would put his slu in the right position) by hitting the slu hard with a mallet, then pull the fuse.

Or, less common, but it's been done, he can open his broken slu, manually put it in the right position, then do the fuse pull method.

If any of that works it saves $1,600!


Tapatalk & such etc

I agree. Re-installing the broken SLU. With or without a pulled fuse will not let the car start. The SLU can be broken, but it has to be broken in the full open/ unlocked position (which yours is not).or your car will not start.

Tapping on it till it cycles open/unlocked (then pulling fuse while it is in the full unlocked position) or replacing it are your only options. By the way don't use a mallet, use something small and hard like a screwdriver so you get many many firm, but really really "sharp' impacts. the idea is to shake loose a jammed plastic gear, not damage the casing. (some damage is okay though)

I recommend trying to convince the service dudes to replace it for free, then pulling your fuse while the new one is still working.

The first part is hard the second part is easy.

Good luck

Ha. The service guys are definitely not going to replace it for free. My hope is that Nissan Consumer Affairs will help me out here. At least if they're interested in having me ever consider their vehicles again.

I gotta say, I'm close to trading in my Z for BRZ right about now.

BRZ??? Yikes! You ARE pissed.

09 with 11.5k miles, pulled mine this past weekend. Thx for the great info!

Your welcome.:tiphat:

I just pulled the fuse. I have a 2009 and I'm at 30,000 miles and my warantee just expired. Better safe than sorry. Saving $500-$1,200 and hassles of a tow feels great. :)

No starting delay so far, but it's only been like 5 starts so far...

Agreed, I'll pull mine the day the warranty is out, until then, I pray it fails

The starting delay has not been linked to the steering lock issue whether you cut the brown wire or pull the fuse.

Your welcome:tiphat: now send me a dollar.:p

Why am I giving YOU the dollar?!?!?! Lol
You gotta give me $20 for the talking turkey

:icon18:

The dollar is b/c I was the one who made the thread and found out how and where to remove the fuse thats why you owe me a dollar.:icon23:

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...lved-real.html

[QUOTE=zentropy;2003390]This is worth quoting so that more people see it.

It's important to note that not only is this a preventitive measure but IT CAN fix the issue if your lock mechanism has already failed. The only thing you will need is a rubber mallet and a bit of patience. Once your steering lock fails the steps are essentially the same. No clutch/brake, gently tap the lock mechanism with the rubber mallet while simaltaneously pushing the on button. If you're lucky(like I was) the lock will unseize and allow you to go into the "on" position. Once you're there follow the above steps. QUOTE]

I don't want to sound dumb, but just making sure that I follow you. If the vehicle has already failed, and we cannot get it to turn back on will removing the fuse do anything?

And I'm sure yet another dumb question, where is the lock mechanism?

[QUOTE=Ryan's Nissan;2179517]Removing the fuse after it fails wont do anything. And the SLU is underneath the steering wheel

[QUOTE=isayimandrew;2179536]Awesome, I will be attempting to get it into the on position then! Now I just need to find a buddy to help with remove the fuse, if/when I get it on. I'm not very car savy.


EDIT* - I know you said the vehicle has to be on. Does it matter that when it failed my wheel wasnt locked?

[QUOTE=Ryan's Nissan;2179579]I have no first hand experience with this since my car didnt come with an SLU. from what i have read though, you can try tapping the actual SLU while trying to start the vehicle and it might start. When it starts just pull the fuse. I dont think it matters if the wheel wasnt locked or not. someone else might have to chime in on that. good luck man! i know theres a couple of DIY's on doing it with some good pics to show what you need to do.

try this link http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...heel-lock.html. theres a lot of info on it there too

Ok, so from what I read. By tapping on the SLU with a rubber mallet and simultaneously tapping the push start with no brake/clutch, sometimes the vehicle will go into ACC mode. Once it's in that mode, all I have to do is pull the Steering lock fuse, right?

If so, I have attached pictures of the Fuse Schematic on my Altima, along with what/where I think the SLU is? (I think its under this pannel?) and the actual fuse box.

Now, I'm pretty sure the fuse I need to pull is the 10A which is the first red fuse on the bottom left of the box, right?

I know I may be repeating questions or asking stupid one's, but I just want to make sure I'm going to be doing this right. And if the SLU is under the panel under the steering wheel, how the heck do I get that panel off?

That's how it's done on the 370Z. Should be the same procedure for your Altima.

According to the fuse box cover diagram you supplied, the fuse is the 10A labeled "STEERING LOCK". It's near the middle of all the fuses.
Edit: Looking at the first pic of the fuses, yes, it is the top red (10A) fuse of the set of two red fuses and two blue (15A) fuses in the bottom left corner.

No panel to remove on the 370Z. See if you can track down the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your car.

Yep. You have all the relevant info and have it all sorted with the right understanding. Good work.

So, once you find your SLU you'll be good to try this out.

I'm hoping it works for you because then we can chalk up another save thanks to this forum lols. And it'll expand the scope of the coolness, cuz the cost savings fix will be out there with our NISSAN brothers.




Phone Tapatalk *nix ...

Awesome, I am excited to work on this. I will be working on it right after work and hope I can turn it on real quick so I can yank that fuse out.

On a side note, I posted on even though my claim over the phone hasn't gone anywhere and they told me to forget about it. I posted on Nissans facebook the other day and they asked me to private message them my information, so I did. Well they responded to me today stating that my case was under review and I would hear from a different agent within 24-48 business hours and gave me a number to call 7A-7P M-F to speak with someone about my case. So, I hope they do something, otherwise I'm still going to continue to file reports and all sorts of stuff until somethings done.

Just make sure you reported here https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

Thanks!

I had filed one through the NHTSA, and it shows up on AFRC, not sure if they are the same, but there are tons on the AFRC site. And I clicked your link and went ahead and filed another one.

Steering lock (s/l) failed last week (3/21/13) on revised part #C. Odd thing about it, is I was planing on removing the fuse today. Oh well, could not have happened any sooner. Been driving on borrowed time. Replaced with CURRENT rev part D. Driving a 2009 sport model with 45K miles. This is the original steering lock. Total dollar out of pocket = ZERO. Extended warranty and towing picked up by extended warranty. Picking up the harness.

Whelp, I tried the hammer method along with moving the steering wheel up and down for a few hours the other night, and nothing. So I'm currently waiting for the Dealer to try and make me a deal along with the executive office for Nissan. I will know everything by tomorrow and will keep you guys updated!

2010 touring with lock rev.C
Pulled fuse, no more lock and no associated problems.
This fix works.

Update: no down time (one day), another dealer had Rev D in stock so car was out of shop the next day.

Ordered thru Car Kit Company their bypass harness. $50 well spent.

keep trying . hit it an angle from the bottom. try it all again. It took me well over a week of trying every night for a a good hour or so.

Hi All,

I bought a 2009 Z Touring with sport package this past Saturday afternoon with 11K miles on it. Absolute mint condition. A real garage car. Story -Pregnant woman traded it in on a family vehicle at my neighborhood Honda dealership. A couple tried to buy it ahead of me but I knew the sales guy and he got me the deal instead of them. I'm sure I probably paid too much due to the other people breathing down my neck but hell I don't care. I love this car. I burned 1/2 a tank of gas playing with it the rest of the day Saturday.

Today leaving for work I saw the "key/fob" battery symbol on my garish orange LCD porthole but the remote unlocks the car fine, so I got to work and then cut the brown wire after ACCY high and SW unlocked and no problem since. No way I'm gonna be stranded for an issue I know about ahead of time. If it weren't for this fantastic forum I'd never have known what to do.
I didn't pull the fuse 'cause I'm lazy and can solder the wires together if I ever need to repair and then put erectrical tape on the joint.

Congratulations, you just saved yourself a huge headache!