Should I get an oil cooler?
 

I am a newb and dont know much about cars in general. I have an 11 Z and live in the hot desert. Car is running just over 220 right now in daily driving. I dont race or drive too aggressively.

Should I put an oil cooler in the car?

If yes, what are the options and what would you recommend?

What option will not void the warranty?

Who can I have install it, and what should installation cost be?

Any help appreciated, thanks.

In your shoes I wouldn't get one. As long as you don't track the car you will be fine.

:iagree: Save your money and spend it on other mods.

Get one 25 row Setrab there is a do it yourself thread on here should cost you about $480

You need -10 fittings, 10' of -10 braided oil line, thermostatic plate 180 degree, and the Setrab oil cooler and the mounting bracket. Follow the DYI and it is easy.

I know mine in Houston stayed around 220 when I was taking it easy if I got on it would shoot up to 260-270 real quick. With the cooler normal driving keeps me at 180-200 degrees, driving crazy 210-220 tops.

Now that I have the Nismo it seems to run hotter than my 370z at 230 under normal driving with the oil cooler back to the same as my 370 and fuel mileage is better i am getting 19 mpg my 370 I could only maintain 17 mpg.

I agree with this if you have the ability to assemble the kits yourself and source the pieces. Since you do not have any plans on agressive driving or tracking the car yet, I would not recommend one at this time either. In future, if you find yourself driving aggressive enough or thinking about doing an occasional track day, then I would look into a 25 row oil cooler kit.

As far as your warranty is concerned, an aftermarket oil cooler WILL NOT void your warranty as long as an engine failure does not occur as a result of having the oil cooler installed. This is the risk of installing any aftermarket part. If you are concerned about this, speak to your local dealership. The "Little Grey Book" that comes with your Z regarding warranty will help to answer some questions. In short, if the dealership can attribute a failure or issue with your car to an aftermarket part that has been installed, then they will either deny the warranty claim (leaving you to foot the bill) or MAY void the entire vehicles warranty (but this is very extreme and would take installing a turbo kit, racing the car, etc).

Congrats on the purchase and enjoy the car. Since you are a noob, be sure to hook up with any local Z car clubs in your area.

Best thing to do with a super common and ubber discussed question is to use the search/advanced search.

Good place to start... http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ttsa-pics.html

Short answer, for the street nope you won't need it as limp mode is way up at the 280* mark, for the track yes you will most likely need it.

Only if you intend on tracking or doing autox. Other than that you would have to be doing some serious canyon runs.

It will only help if you do get one, I would personally do it for the added insurance towards the longevity of my engine. VHR's run hot to begin with... Also if you get an Uprev tune make sure they lower the fan engagement temp--makes the fans kick on sooner, helps a lot in traffic and such

RE: I dont race or drive too aggressively. My favorite modification and you do not need one.

I had dealership install the Nismo oil cooler.

If your running 220 in hot weather then you are probably fine. My Z was 220 in *cold* weather and would hit 240 in the summer. During traffic + summer it would do 250.

I got up to 260 (and would have hit limp mode) when I did spirited driving on glendora mountain road (when it was like 60s F out).

Once I got an oil cooler normal temps are more like 180-190ish and in the heat around 200-210. Had no problems even tracking the car once I go the oil cooler but probably got up to 240-245 when tracking (even with cooler).

Another one here with the Nismo/nissan oil cooler.

We may be the only two. :icon17: They certainly work and have never regretted it.

:iagree:

I know my 370z runs hotter than most from what I have read on these forums. I also like to drive hard and like the option to track now and then so oil cooler was a must for me. Interesting enough even though mine runs a bit hotter its never burned any oil really. over 45k miles and i never have to add oil in between oil changes every 4k miles.

Like the idea of the nissan branded version. That should not violate warranty, yes?

What did you guys pay for the nissan coolers with installation costs?

Do you have to add more oil for oil changes with the cooler?

Thanks

im going to go against the grain and say yes you should. ive been hitting 220 degrees in warmer weather lately, and once i hit that "magic" 220 or so 1st and 2nd gear bogs to hell. i wish i got it sooner because after installing my 25 row performance is MUCH better.

If your car has never gone above 250 degrees? you're good to go. The second i see over 250? I'd consider one. If you're not competing in any sport and haven't been aggressive enough on the car to get high oil temps. cooler not needed. On the street you can control oil temps with good throttle control and a high quality synthetic. Without my cooler i was able to drop oil temps by making sure the car steady cruises no higher than 2,750rpm. inside of 10-15 min, you'll drop 10-20 degrees. You can drive this car hard and not hit limp mode if you take cool down laps or rides. But if you're seriously competing... The oil cooler is a must. There is no cool down lap in a competition till it's all said and done.

I have one cuz i drive hard... really hard.

Installed a 25 row from Z1 Motorsports this weekend and am happy with the results. Was hitting 250-260 in southern MD when we were getting high 90s outside. Install took about 5 hours in my driveway.

wow 5 hrs... unseen complications? I'm planning a DIY for this one.

Actually I have to say this is one of the few installs I've done on vehicles that went without any hiccups. It seems there is always something that goes wrong or what not. Peice of cake with this one, tho :tup:

I posted up a DIY in this morning if you want to look it over and there are a few other ones in that section that helped me out as well.

Car is not in limp mode, so performance should be exactly the same. You got some empirical data here? Besides the feel good butt dyno :)

For a street car if you are < 230 in the hot you are fine. Folks who track there cars have different thermal requirements and its a good investment.

100 deg, AC on, and my 2010 never goes above 225. I see temps creep up 5deg during stop and go while the HW seems to be steady at 220 in the very warm.

< 80 deg and normal temps are 210-215F.

I run 5/30 Pennzoil Ultra, FWIW.

- b

i also run penzoil ultra 5w/30. however, ive noticed that once you hit the 220 degree range, the ECU starts to pull timing. you can definitely tell there is some lost power. its not limp mode, no thats at 260 degrees, but there is definitely something different going on at 220 degrees. since installing the 25 row this weekend, temps stay in the 180-190 range and its MUCH better

:confused: I've never felt any power loss between the 220 and 250 range. actually, optimum temps on this car imho is the 220-230 range. doesn't make sense.

Isnt 180 -190 temps on the really cold side for normal every day driving? An oil cooler is really meant if you track your car but its NOT needed if you use your car for normal commuting. Hell, even if you drive a little spirited, yes, you may go over 220 to perhaps 240 MAYBE even 250 but how long can you drive "spiritedly" and not have to come to a full stop on the streets? traffic lights, other cars, pedestrians LOL. Your car will have time to cool off again. It takes only a few minutes for it to come back down in temps.

This engine is meant to be hot, the spark plugs are designed to run hot, the engine is designed to run hot. The oil is designed to provide optimum protection at temperatures above 200. Otherwise, you are risking premature wear and engine sludge build up. Over time, this will lead to higher emmissions, lower MPGs, lower engine performance and throttel response.

You can try to put a plate infront of your oil cooler to keep it from cooling too much and take it off when you go to the tracks.

I think we should complement this discussion with a debate of which oil should be used with an oil cooler. :ugh2:

So I'l bite. Link to where credible,scientific data shows 180-190 is bad for the oil and 220 is the sweet spot for this engine?

Where is the credible evidence that says 240 - 250 degrees is a problem?

I haven't seen anything to state that either, Davey. just a lot of folks spouting off something they heard from a friend who knows a mechanic who heard it on the interwebs.

Me, I sleep good that the oil is a little cooler and if I sludge the hell out of the internals or blow the engine I promise to post it up.

:facepalm:

Anything under 300 degrees is pussy shit.

Just kidding, but honestly if there wasn't a gauge right in front of our face I don't think half the people would have an oil cooler. Just my two cents though.

Agreed. If I am driving hard, I am feeling too many G's from turns and braking to notice any decrease in power from higher temps. If it weren't for the gauge, I wouldn't know any better till I hit 280/limp mode. Also, for me, the jump in driving style to raise it from 260 to 270 is huge. I'd be driving just under all-out-balls-to-the-wall on a tight road.

However, I think the issue would be immediately present if I track my car. Lengths are longer and turns are wider, which would mean I'd be on the throttle much more and usually all the way down. This would be why it'd be good to install a cooler.

:iagree: The only reason they didn't have a oil temp problem in the 350 was because.....no oil temp gauge. The same goes for many many other vehicles, no gauge no problem.

I would recommend it Vegas can be brutal

there are different sizes 19row 25row or a 34row

a shop can install this if your not mechanically inclined to do it

But we do have some DiY's from other members who have done the work

cost depends on the cooler size and the shop doing the work

Lets not turn this into an oil discussion and just help a fellow member out with his questions

LETS KEEP IT ON TOPIC!

Getting a little over 220 is no big deal at all, so no, I don't think you need an oil cooler if you don't drive hard and you're just seeing temps a bit above 220.

Keep in mind if you are regularly in the 250 - 270 range the engine won't go into limp mode but you are breaking your oil down a little faster and should probably at least consider a cooler or shortening your oil change intervals.

It's no big deal, really. 220 is about right.

:iagree: Limp mode isn't till 280* so no need to freak out yet.

Sorry, gotta throw down BS flag. Hard to say definitely with out raw data points such as data logging that shows how oil temperature effects the timing curve, or before/after data logs referencing timing, engine temp, IAT, etc...

I'm not saying its not possible, but from my experience (which includes using a full aftermarket ECU to tune a car), intake air temp (IAT) will alter your timing curve, not coolant/oil temp.

Temp inputs are used to warn the driver that things are not good. You would not want to pull just a bit of timing here...you want the driver to go 'woah!' Neo style: hence limp mode :D

- b

You are 100% right, the other guy is completely wrong. I have multiple loggers on my car, it doesn't matter. If your car is moving anyway, the IAT should really level out and drop to where it should be.

I don't remember where I read it on here but several times I have seen people point out the sweet spot for oil temps is 190-200 F. 180 being the minimum you should have before pushing the car due to high oil pressure. IMO, 220 is the max you want to see. Like someone else said, the engine seems to bog down (note not limp mode) It just feels more like a slug. and the person who said the ecu pulls timing, here may be why.

My logic is as follows: high oil temps = engine running hotter --> heat soak in engine bay --> higher Intake air temps --> ecu pulls timing--> which reduces performance.

Therefore, I would recommend the oil cooler. It will keep you engine at more reasonable temps, reducing the heat soak effect and overall it is probably better in the long run to have oil temps at 190-200 than 220-240.

220-240 won't hurt a thing.

Making your Z run at 180-190 is like going back in time to the big muscle cars of the past. Do you know the modern engine has been running hotter and hotter as decades go by? Cars from the 70's use to run this cold. Reason why engines run hot now? well higher compressions, higher RPM limits, better fuel mixture, emission requirements, etc. There are definitely more benefits to running an engine hotter than colder. I've mentioned a few already. Like I said, there is no reason to obtain an oil cooler unless you track your car or live in an area that is too hot with many hills. I think some people just get an oil cooler for the sake of "modding" with no real reason for getting it only than to say they had one. of course there are many with legitimate reasons to have it :)

I suggest do your research and read for yourself. hotter running engines are more efficient at what they do (combustion) with better emissions (good for the environment) Synthetic oil was invented to supplement hotter running engines for their higher tolerance to viscosity breakdown at higher temperatures than conventional motor oil.
Are you using synthetic motor oil in your car? of you are running your engine this cold, there is no reason for the extra lub. save yourself some money and switch to conventional.