Steering lock problem solved (for real)

SouthArk370Z

If the engine is spinning over (starter activating), then the ESCL is not the problem.

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Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

Ghostvette

At the risk of being overly rude, an engine needs 3 things to start; air, spark and fuel. If you are sure you have fuel (the gas gauge is just an approximation), then all you are missing is spark. Crank and no start is usually crank sensor. Ours are in a location that is not too prone to getting dirty from road crap, however, a leaking CSC can raise havoc with it. Since your car will start eventually, you might have a fuel issue. Check and make sure the fuel pump hasn't fallen off inside the tank.


GL

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

DemandedAce

Pulling the fuse did absolutely nothing for me as well, my car still has the lock frozen about 90% of the mornings that I get in and I have to bang on it to get the car started daily

Ghostvette

Pulling the fuse does work, if you pull the fuse after starting the car and you pull the right one. It's up by the battery, kinda buried. Some people cut the brown wire going to the steering lock. There is a thread in the DIY section that has pictures.

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

DemandedAce

For probably the tenth time in the past ten pages of this thread, yes I pulled the right fuse - and no it did not work.

SouthArk370Z

It sounds like the locking pin is not fully retracted. Put the fuse back in, cycle the ESCL (let it lock and then unlock), remove fuse again.

Edit: It might help to give the ESCL a few whacks right before pulling fuse

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

mishuko

But did you really pull the right fuse?

SouthArk370Z

Are you sure you got the right fuse? If you hear a whirring noise from the ESCL when you press the start button, you pulled the wrong one.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

JARblue

I agree with SouthArk ... sounds like the ESCL is not the problem. Were you having any issues like this before pulling the fuse?

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mishuko

Drove into work. Flood warning. Hoping not to get drowned car lol

SouthArk370Z

DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

DemandedAce

Ahh, thanks! So, he is essentially using the metal tab as a jumper even though the pin is engaged and in a locked position? Very interesting, technically his method could work for people who have had it fail completely and can't unjam it as well, basically trip the car to think it's "unlocked" and go on your way.

I'll definitely have to give this a shot when work gives me some more time, if it gets me beyond needing to kickstart the car every day I don't take the motorcyle that'll be a dream come true.

DemandedAce

To update this, the theoretical became reality for me today. I had been putting off opening up the module as I broke my hand in several places, so I've been using a hammer to get the car started most days for the past couple of months. However, today I went out to start it and could not get it unfrozen (yes, this is with the fuse pulled). The wheel turned fine, it just had the indicator on the dash and would not turn on at all.

So, I raged at it a bit and went inside, but my neighbor texted me later saying that it was chirping every 30-60 seconds. I went out to look at it and sure enough it was chirping for some reason, so I unplugged the battery and plugged it back in and the chirping was resolved, but (of course) the windows forgot their positions and wouldn't close after closing the door. This is terrible timing as we are due for storms tomorrow, so I tried starting the car again to no avail. At this point I'm at here:

1. Can't start car (or even get it to Acc)
2. Windows are stuck partially open, and open more and more every time I open/close the door
3. Rain is coming tomorrow
4. Hand is broken

So, now it is 9:30pm and my hand is literally forced, so I reach under and disconnect the module and it came out pretty easily. I followed the steps in the link above, and it only took me 15 minutes to do (with only 1.5 hands usable). I cut into the box and found that there is a metric #@$%-ton of grease all over the wheel and gear which I'm guessing was part of the problem. The lock mechanism itself was retracted, but the pins were not being depressed so the car was unable to get beyond the lockout and start.

I pulled the gear and lock out and taped a copper tab between the two pins and taped the module back together and remounted it, car fired right up and no issue at all.

Altogether, the process was 20minutes and I wish I had done it several months ago. I have the gear/lock in a baggy in my storage unit now and hope to never need to touch or think about it again.

TLDR: If your car does lock up and you can't unfreeze it with force (hammer/etc...) don't pay to have it towed and replaced at over $1k. Instead, pull the module out, cut into it, and bypass the mechanism and you'll be good to go.