Originally Posted by Benadrylz (Post 2097649)

I never found the fastener :shakes head: Have to order some spares from Z1

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2097656)

If you're talking about the plastic "pop rivets", I get mine from my favorite body shop. The last batch I got was fifty cents a piece for a handful (14).

Originally Posted by Benadrylz (Post 2097649)

I never found the fastener :shakes head: Have to order some spares from Z1

Originally Posted by TGreen (Post 2109958)

I dropped a fastener down into my bay, too. I think I heard it hit the shroud that covers the bottom of the engine bay. Anyone have any luck pulling that thing off and retrieving whatever fell in? (In my case, the clip.)

If I can't get at it, what or how great is the harm in just leaving the clip in there to eventually work it's way out?

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2110003)

Shouldn't do any harm unless it gets against the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipes.
I haven't taken my shroud off, but I hear it's a pretty easy job - 10 bolts/screws or so. Look at the DIY for changing oil.

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2084582)

SLU failure will allow the car to go to neither ACC nor ON.


Sounds a lot like SLU failure.


As far as I know, that will have no effect on the SLU problem.


If the SLU locking pin does not retract completely, the wheel will be unlocked, but the microswitches are out of synch.

Is the Intelligent Key warning (to the left of the VID (outside temp, MPG, &c)) on? Won't go to ACC or ON? No whirr from the SLU when you press the start button? If all those are happening, you have SLU failure.


You have to pull the fuse after you get the SLU to let the car go to ON or ACC. If the SLU is not making the microswitches properly, it does no good to pull the fuse. See my thread at http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...heel-lock.html for links to more info.

Originally Posted by Stosh Rickles (Post 2111214)

Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?

BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.

Originally Posted by MannyD (Post 2112928)

Hey guys, having trouble lifting the fuse box out when pushing the 2 tabs in. Any pointers?

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2113007)

Lift straight up. You may need to stick your hand underneath and guide the wire bundle past the bracket.

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2113047)

The bundle comes into the IPDM from the bottom. IIRC, I stuck my arm down the left side (toward rear of car). The bundle is not very flexible, but it's not too bad.
Are you sure the tabs on the back of the IPDM are clearing the bracket?
Try pulling upward on the bottom of the IPDM while releasing the tabs.

Originally Posted by thezmonster (Post 2113185)

you can see the pic of the plastic tabs one each side needs to pull it up toward to you

http://www.the370z.com/members/thezm...astic-tabs.jpg

view of the steering lock

http://www.the370z.com/members/thezm...-lock-fuse.jpg

it literally took me like a mintue to pop IPDM off the bracket, just gotta give a lil muscle lol haha Im a Nissan Technician figured why its too easy for me Hope this pics help you MannyD

Originally Posted by lachap55 (Post 2120170)

I looked in battary compartment and did not see steering wheel fuse. i have and 2010 roadster 370z. where would my fuse be if not there?