There's a fuse puller stored in the driver side kick panel.

:iagree: This is what I used.

Crap, really? I'm used to them being attached underneath the fuse box covers in other cars. Eh, it was no biggie.

Ill be waking up and pullin mine tomorrow.




The fuse you perverts:rolleyes:

The fuse will come AFTER the pulling is all done. :icon14:

Just finished. Easy as pie. No more steering lock worries:icon17:

Oh, and btw, I swear the car started faster with the fuse pulled. Zero delay when I pressed the start button.

:iagree: Mine seemed faster as well.

Told you,oh forgot to mention that your car will blow up in exactly 30 minutes.:icon17:

:driving:

.....30 min......................

:eek:

cb pull story.
 

I finally pulled mine. The steering wheel doesn't do its pre-start dance anymore and the car starts with no delay.

I must say getting the fuse box out was more challenging than I had envisioned reading all your posts, but was definitely do-able.

Also I broke one of my little plastic trim rivets. :( and dropped a pocket knife down into my engine bay which came to rest on my lower plastic engine cover. getting that out was harder than the cb pull as I was at a buddies house. (no jack stands to get under there and had to drive around a crappy part of town looking for a high enough curb to prop up a wheel so I could wiggle under the car to unscrew my cover.

A couple very helpful prostitutes came up to ask if I was okay and one offered to join me under the car. I don't think she was too good with tools (not the kind I was trying to employ anyhow) so I politely refused, finished my businedd and did my best 0-60 yet departing the area!!!!

Woo Hoooo! Personal best 0-60 pull and a successful engine control mod all in one night.

Seriously. That's what happened to me. Caused all sorts of rear damage.

:bowrofl:

:rofl2:

:D Another satisfied customer here!

For those of you who haven't done this yet, here are the steps I followed (I'm not sure that they've been put in one place):

1. Remove the battery compartment cover (two tabs at the front end of the cover).
2. Remove the four clips from the perimeter of the battery compartment surround. To remove each clip, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry up the center round "head" of the clip, then pull out the entire clip.
3. Remove the battery compartment surround; note the section at the front driver side that goes under the support bar.
4. Remove the passenger side windshield cowl's rubber hood seal just to the rear of the battery compartment - there are four clips embedded in the seal, just put your fingers around them from between the firewall and the seal and pull up
5. Remove the passenger side windshield cowl (two clips that are the same as the battery compartment surround). Note that there is a tab (but no clip) where the cowl goes underneath the windshield seal - pull this up slightly, then pull the cowl out.
6. The fuse box will now be fully visible and accessible. There are two tabs at the top of the fuse box that go into the steel frame that the box is sitting in. Simultaneously push the two tabs towards the driver side of the car, and then pull the fuse box up and out.
7. There are two tabs on the bottom of the fuse box (where the harness enters) - push the two tabs and pull the cover open.
8. Put the car in ACC - do not start the car.
9. Remove the steering lock 10A fuse (top fuse in the lower lefthand block of four fuses - see the pictures in other posts in this thread, or just look at the diagram that is silkscreened into the top of the fuse box). To remove the fuse, I just used the same flat blade screwdriver that I used on the clips to partially pry up the fuse, then I used my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out. No fuse puller or needle-nose pliers needed.
10. Change the car from ACC to OFF.
11. Put the cover back on the fuse box.
12. Put the fuse box back into the steel frame - make sure (a) to align the slots at the center of the box with the tabs in the frame; (b) that the harness will fold under the box and slide down into the area underneath the box; and (c) that the two locking tabs at the top of the box are fully engaged and the box is locked into place when you are done.
13. If you wish, now is a good time to start the car and make sure that all is well. Before you start the car, make sure that no trim pieces, clips, or tools are loose in the engine compartment.
14. If you did start the car, turn it OFF.
15. Re-install the windshield cowl. To reinsert the two clips, push the center portion of the clip all of the way up, then insert the clip, then push the center portion of the clip all of the way down (you should hear a click when it engages). If the clip that goes into the passenger fender side of the cowl does not engage (or if the cowl does not lay flat on the fender), you most likely do not have the fuse box fully seated in the steel frame - remove the cowl and go back to step 12.
16. Re-install the winshield cowl rubber seal.
17. Re-install the battery surround trim (remember the portion that goes under the bar), re-inserting the four clips the same way as with the windshield cowl.
18. Re-install the battery compartment cover.
19. Pop open a tall frosty can of refreshment, stand back, and admire your $500 savings!

I believe that's it! If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will let us know.

So, in summary: 15-20 minutes of your time and one flat blade screwdriver to save $500 - not a bad deal at all!

Advice: Put the 10A fuse you removed in a ziplock baggie in the car ("just in case"). In fact, next time I visit the auto parts store I'm going to purchase a few spare 10A and 15A fuses and leave them in the same baggie. Also carry a small flat blade screwdriver in the car in case one of the other fuses blows while you're on the road.

HTH!

DISCLAIMER: Perform this procedure at your own risk - I accept no responsibility for any damage to you or your car!