Honestly if the only thing it did better was not restrict the throttle for so long and so reduced, I'd be okay with it, even on the track. It's just ridiculous that it lasts for literally seconds longer than it should.

If it's a really tight corner it will happen. VDC used to kick in on this really tight slightly uphill right hander into my neighborhood. It'd take that one at only around 10 mph or so and the car would practically die coming out of it. :bowrofl:

I will make a video for u tmr when I drive the z. it has to be the tcs that is on

Oh and anytime u hit bumps turning despite the low speed

That's the problem. It's basically like what you'd expect to see in a non-performance car. A sport tuned setting would be very nice to have. Something that lets you get wheel spin and lets you yaw the car out some, only intervening when you go too far... and even then it should do it smoothly.

It's okay, I don't think anyone doubts you. I'm just saying I've never seen it in my car.

idk about you guys... But in my experience VDC off + SynchroRev off = Z drives 100x smoother

:iagree:

When I attended the Skip Barber High Performance driving school at Road Atlanta a few years back, the instructors echoed that sentiment.

Perhaps the confusion stems from the fact that there's the 'ABLS' component of the VCD system. Either can trip the 'VCD' light. VCD being full-blown traction control with power cut, whereas ABLS just pulses brakes in an attempt to mimic a LSD (at least, for those of us with non-Sports... not sure about those with VLSD's). At least, that's my understanding. Different situations might invoke just ABLS, where you don't get the power cut.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ht-blinks.html

Mine did not. It cut power by about 10-20% for a quarter second or so. Very nice on a slightly overzealous corner exit.

VDC is not too intrusive to me either, just another safety net when spirit driving on the public streets.

It all depends on when/where/how you are driving. Most find it to be intrusive when driving hard, or driving rough. It won't be too invasive if you are not at the limit and driving smooth.

that wasnt VDC that kicked in it was traction control. VDC has to do with the way the car accelerates. With it on my car revs to red line before really taking off. with it off I get a much better shift dynamic

This. Which means street driving should be unobtrusive for the most part. But there are situations where it becomes a PITA, like Mike mentioned earlier.

I was driving smooth, not pushing the car. Exiting a banked corner in 3rd gear and rolling onto the throttle while straightening the wheel. I rolled onto it just fast enough to try to move the back end gradually. I felt it more 1-2" or so it felt, and VDC prevented any more. For the street, this is just fine, if not preferable, for me.

BTW: in answer to a side-point above: ABLS is active even on Sport/Nismo models with VSLD from the factory.

My experience has been that VDC is very intrusive if you're trying to slip the wheels and drive at the sweet spot right on the edge of good traction. You definitely want this car's VDC off for track stuff, even low-level HPDE. It won't save you, it'll just screw you.

I keep it off most of the time on the street as well, because in the rare circumstance you want to push the rear end a bit (e.g. hard accel coming out of a corner or onto a freeway, etc) you don't want it killing your acceleration.

What it's nice for on the street though is unpredictable traction situations where you're *not* trying to push traction limits intentionally. For example, if you're driving in decently-heavy rain and/or on a dusty/gravelly section of road. There are definitely situations there where you might hit a puddle or a slick spot out of nowhere and VDC can react faster than you can if you're not being 100% attentive.

Heck, the car will cut power when I pull out of the parking lot at work because the bump is too high and the system doesn't like it

Year model has to be considered. We know that nissan is forever tweaking there cars in general and not making any announcements. You feel difference when you had time in each car. For example: salesguys that take Z's home feel the difference from year to year. Or like I did going from an 09 to an 11 on the suspension. 11's spring response is more refined in absorption of bumps.
Its possible to VDC has been mildly tweaked enough not to be as intrusive in 11-12???Which are the cars you are familiar with. 09-10 basically went untweaked except for some TSB's, small feature upgrades like brighter nav, screen, backup cam heated mirrors and air filter. 2011 marked subtle tweaks to improve overall ride and drive quality that weren't made known to the gen-pop, like sound deadening added. But most dealers and car reviewers do know of the mild refinements which occured. That's why the 2011 was re-reviewed by a few car mags.

dang, we're still talking about this? lol...

Cos they haven't turned off the VDC yet... you know what I mean Mr.kenchan :icon18:

sorry, i havent read all 58 post to this point and here is my 2 cents.

with VDC on, if you try to accelerate hard and turn hard the VDC will shut you down and say nooooooo.

it feels to me, on long sweeping turns under hard acceleration that VDC will slightly cut power to keep things under control. Or maybe I dont try hard enough on the long sweepers.

I think it's fine on, but I hate the fact that the electronic system can't be turned 100% off. I know it's 'helping me' by causing my brakes to fake it as a differential, but it's my brakes, not a differential.

I wish VDC off was "Sport Mode" and ALL electronic throttle and brake oversight plus ABS ice mode disabled was "Off."

I heard they also added an adjustable rev limiter to a select number of autos.

I am unsure as to why you quoted my post to say this.

I never had a problem with my vette either. Also, I used comp mode on the track in the vette and it rarely ever kicked in, and when it did, it was gentle. A much better system.

Oh yeah, the fun thing in the vette. I ran non stock tire sizes for the track, square I think, but definitely shorter in back. With everything on, traction control would engage at 84 mph when the rears were spinning faster than they were supposed to compared to the fronts

There's a nice comparison of the VDC on the 350 vs the 370 on Australian Top Gear. Summary of review: Instills confidence in the driver rather than takes away control.

Of course, that is all relative.

Overall, I'd say if it doesn't feel intrusive, don't worry about it, and if it does, just switch it off :p

I leave mine on when in the rain or if just cruising from point A to B. I switch it off if I plan on playing with the car a bit.

BTW, VDC Off is OFF, but the wheel slip icon will still flash if you lose traction.

VDCyo

If you have a 6MT car, and you don't mind the loss of Synchro-Rev-Match, you *can* disable all the electronic throttle interference via UpRev. There's a setting near the bottom of the config for "ETC off". You definitely lose SRM, and you probably also lose throttle rev limits (but I didn't test that), so you'd be on your own and then the hard fuel cut rev limits (normally there's a soft throttle rev limit before that). The throttle control is amazing though, it feels like an old school cable throttle again.

I couldn't keep it like that on my 7AT though, because the 7AT relies on SRM to shift smoothly. It's horribly and clunky with ETC off.

Interesting -- with ETC off will it still automatically down shift if you drop to about 1.5 K RPM or no?

If so, I may try it -- that's my ONE complaint about the 7AT. I'd like it to hold the gear even if the revs drop, unless it's approaching idle.

I didn't test the auto-downshift with ETC off, but in general ETC off + 7AT isn't a usable combination, I don't think. When you try to downshift it can't match right and goes all clunky. I only tried it for about a quarter mile then pulled over and re-programmed though. Maybe if I played with it more I could figure out whether you can match revs yourself with the 7AT in that mode, but I'm not sure how tricky the timing would be, given all the various internal bits engaging and disengaging on their own time and lagged from the button input.

[QUOTE=Red__Zed;1600240]I heard they also added an adjustable rev limiter to a select number of autos.





:gtfo2: you are so right loverboi. :superghey:

Hmm. I see -- if you do some more experimenting let me know :tiphat:

How would you rev match without a clutch?

Automatics have clutches. Even ones with tq converters. Also, hydraulic lock-up is indeed following the same concept as a clutch, it's just viscous.

Exactly. Our 7AT's actually really good about the lockup part too, it's only squishy for a brief moment mid-shift. The shifting logic relies on the 7AT's own version of SRM though, which dies when you turn ETC off. Now I'm really tempted to go play with it more and see if it's possible to make up for the loss of ETC by trying to manually match. I think the problem is going to be that the window for blipping is going to be very tiny and a little bit unpredictable though.

I wouldn't. Unless of course you are cool with replacing the 7AT on your dime.

I understand that. But I mean functionally. If DRM is disabled or not working properly when VDC is off? And we need to blip the throttle with no manual clutch? How do we still achieve rev-matching manually without computer assistance? That's my question.

My guess is we probably can't without assistance.

Has. Anyone tried to possibly test if when VDC is off? Maybe Rev-match works better from the paddles vs the stick or vice-versa? I know its connected into the same transmission but there is a noticeable performance between shifting on paddles vs shifting on the stick. The paddles snap much quicker. Maybe in the speed difference of gear changes may have an affect on "Rev-matching with VDC off???"

I'm just sayin'. Something to explore??? Maybe? I guess I won't be testing that one out.: lol:rofl2:

Unknown I find the rev matching is perfect in my m6 with vdc on or off makes no difference. As for between a7 vs m6 that could be a little harder to compare.

As mentioned before if you modify the suspension you will have vdc kick in much more often! I found this to be true after I installed my springs and spacers. Ever since then I have been driving with it off because I find there is to much interference even with normal daily driving. It would kick in when it didn't need to at all.

yah, VDC on/off does not seem to change the SRV on my car either.

Re manually rev-matching the 7AT:

I don't think it would hurt it in the short term to play with it for a few days. They take a lot of abuse and keep ticking, and it's really just some shocky engagements while experimenting.

SRM isn't disabled when VDC is off. This was just a side-topic that sprung up about SRM being disabled when ETC is off. ETC stands for Electronic Throttle Control, and can only be disabled via UpRev, not dash buttons. In the 7AT case, when you click a shifter paddle, after a short delay the compter goes through a sequence of clutching out of the old gear and into the new gear and blips the throttle in the middle. The question is whether it's practical to time that out manually and do it yourself or not. It's definitely theoretically possible, just possibly impractical.

The Service Manual has some pictorials about the underlying processes, e.g.:

http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...-7at-stuff.png

http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...-7at-stuff.png

The last line there "Engine Speed Control Demand" basically means "The time window for which the TCM wants to control your throttle for blipping purposes". With ETC off it can't do so, and you have to do the same with your foot.