I think you missed the point of my post :P

It depends on your revs. If you are just cruising without any moderate-heavy acceleration you are fine for now. But you really need to get those temps up.

All the above oils are very good. The OEM will run you $90. With your warranty it will cost you 60. Castrol edge will run 60 costing you 30. Castrol will save you a few bucks. Aftermarket CAI's won't cool much better than the stock CAI. I think investing in silicone hoses will show better results for cooling purposes and horspower gains will be useable throughout the RPM range vs using an aftermarket CAI that makes you lose up to 12hp from 1000 to 4600rpm then bursts with over 15hp over 5200rpm.

Its not bad on your engine if you cruised those 38miles. If you drive aggressive without slowly working your ttemps up to drive that way you put increased wear on your engine.

So that means I can only cruise when outside temps are in the 60s? Damn

Until you fab a cover, yes. Gotta take it easy.

Member crwallace1 says he made one that can be accessed without bumper removal. His is attached via magnets with an operating temp of up to 176 degrees farenheit. Any thoughts on how well this method would work? Are the magnet temps an issue? If it woks fine, his solution would be great for ease of access.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-blocker.html

He also used gorilla glue to glue the magnets to the oil cooler. Any thoughts on issues that may arise from that? I don't have tools and had to do the oil cooler install at my friend's place so not needing to remove the bumper everytime I want to put the oil cooler blocker on or take it off would be great.

I am a little lost on this. How do silicone hoses help cool better? The only real information I can find on them says they will outlast the stock hoses because they are rubber. Do the silicone ones do a better job at preventing heat soak or something of the like?

I don't know *exactly* which forms of rubber and silicone are used for the factory hoses and the aftermarket silicone ones, but generally speaking the thermal conductivity of the two is in the same rough ballpark with generic silicone rubber coming in around 25% higher (0.2 vs 0.16), looking at data from around google/wikipedia. That seems like the right direction (coolant is hotter than front engine bay air, so silicone hoses would cause more cooling of the coolant than rubber hoses), but all things considered even if the effect is there the difference is probably very insignificant in the big picture of your cooling system.

The primary benefit is that the silicone hoses will last longer and withstand more pressure/heat/time abuse before cracking. I'm still running stock hoses on mine for now since they're still healthy, but whenever they finally do start showing signs of age, I'll replace them with silicone instead of more factory stuff.

^^^Its so easy to take the bumper off. undo the front bolts on your bottom tray. take off all of the top body clips that hold your ratiator air shroud off, which i think is a total of 12 or 13. you have to dig for 2 bolts, one on each side of the fender well that hold the bumpter to the front quarter panels. after that give it a firm tug your way and it will come off. that or you can look it up on z1's website they have the full installation manual on how to install the cooler. I had the exact EXACT same problems. I was originally going to go witha full plate but still wanted flow. The thermostat will do its job. I also was going to start off with 3/8 in holes but decided to go smaller. My drive is 48 miles on the fwy and it gets down to the high 30's sometimes. Lowest I have seen is 42 or 43?

How is it exactly that by switching brands your oil temps change? Also it changes with different type of air filters?? I know if you change the weight of the oil you are using that it will change your operating tempature, but it honestly doesn't make sense if you have 1 5w-30 synthetic oil and another brand of 5w-30 sythetic oil. Just wondering.....

^ ^ Might the different addatives they use, but I am completely guessing here.

Good silicone hoses are completely heat resistant to 330 degrees helping bring colder air into the manifold. The stock rubber doesn't resist heat as well on the air temp itself.

If you mean 60's outside? No I'm not saying that. This is what I'm saying. You want to get your engine warm. Gradually revving it during your cruise should get it up to 180 inside of 15 min. Once you have this temp. The oil is prime for hard and aggressive driving.