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While the oil issue is often overblown, it's worth paying attention to what you put in, and getting UOA's done regularly on a car like this. |
Agree. Still, for most people I don't think there is anything to worry about. A simple electrical tape would take your mind off of it and you won't think twice about it.
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Education is better than ignorance. Taping over it is pointless. It's better to understand what your car is doing and why. And it will help you interpret UOA results.
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This exemplar ignorance post brought to you by shadoherps. Still in demand, baby, yeah! |
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http://www.mdjunction.com/components...ot_to_know.jpg |
I love the the kilo/mile one. I hope it's real.
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I'm still LOL'ing at you all. We got the Z06's up to about 270* thrashing 'em at Spring Mountain this week and it handled it just fine. 100* ambient temperature, hours on the track, the cars are run 12-14 thousand miles and then sold with a disclosure. They have NEVER had ONE SINGLE engine failure at Spring Mountain. They run 5-30 Mobil 1 just like what comes in the cars.
I HIGHLY doubt Nissan's engines are much more susceptible to breaking down at high temperature than GM's small-block V8 pushrod engines. You all need to just get over it until you actually break something. I posted a thread a few weeks ago about it and this board was so butthurt about the concept that NOONE HAS EVER broken a 370Z engine because of oil temps that the thread was deleted as I don't see it anymore. Jesus. All most of you want to do is whine and that totally proved it. You are never going to listen to reason, logic, or look at the evidence. You just want to run your cockholsters about what you THINK is a problem. Just sell the car. Your whining even made it into Consumer Reports and now the 370Z has a nice big black circle for power-train reliability or cooling or some such, lol. UNLESS you are hitting limp mode on the track and it is hampering your ability to enjoy the car, it is not ONE BIT of an issue except for what you are turning it into. All that aside, does Nissan have an engine-oil life monitor? It won't steer you wrong if you stick with OEM oil and have a good air-filter that is PROPERLY sealed in the air-box (many oil-life monitors don't monitor contaminants, although I believe Mercedes does). If not, I would indeed suggest what others are saying with the UAO's and you might decide to change the oil earlier than otherwise if you do beat on it in the heat. That is just good common sense and PM for your tools. Sorry for being a bit rough in this post, but this oil-temp thing, I have come to learn, is completely ridiculous unless it is holding you back on the track. Whining about 220* oil temps during daily driving? Really? |
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Bearing material is bearing material and synthetic oil is synthetic oil, by and large. 220-240* oil temps from driving your car spiritedly or in traffic are nothing to whine about. I fully agree/understand the complaints from those hitting limp mode at the track, but people who just randomly pick a temperature to start bitching at...wtf? |
Car & Driver & oil Temp
I read that C & D article and was also disappointed with the results. But, being pragmatic, It seems unlikely I will ever suffer brake fade or high oil temp with the low-key driving style of my wife and I.
Having said that, it still disturbs me that my 2000 Ranger truck with a 4.0L engine has, not only an oil cooler, it also has a transmission fluid cooler. This is no sophisticated, high-end vehicle; it cost way less than half the price of a Z. Tell me again why Nissan can't afford to include an oil cooler? Ranger |
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I mostly agree, but I think the oil temps definitely merit paying more attention to UOA's. I've seen a lot of guys that hit 240s in normal highway driving....which means I'd start to get concerned with spirited driving. While it is true that modern oils are good up to higher temps, they still aren't intended to be run long term at high temps. Oil gets changed after a day at the track....more than 3000 miles on 240-260* oil may not be the best call-- which is why getting UOA's done regularly is really important on a car like the Z. My first one on the Ester oil showed that it was broken down after about 1200 miles (when I did my first change). I've run GC since, and it's been great...except one oil change where I ran Ester again....and again, broken down in under 2000 miles. So while most people are blowing certain concerns out of proportions, there is also an element of concern for how the oil is actually holding up. There's a lot of hand-waving and claims that "modern oil is fine to 300*"-- but it is more complex than that, and requires actually paying attention to the way the oil is holding up. BTW, no oil life indicator on the 370z. |
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I'm pretty sure it's not too uncommon for cars to run oil temps around 220-230 under normal operation. Heck, the VW VR6 did all the time.
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Not one student could keep up with the instructors at Spring Mountain in a ZR1...while they drove stock Camaro SS's on PS2 tires, lol. |
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The cool down lap comes after you get the checker flag :) Even with a cool down lap here or there the heat build up just becomes too much to dissipate in a single lap, we do it but it is only momentary relief. The cars probably get pushed the hardest when you start red misting trying to catch someone in front of you as you start focusing exclusively on driving and forget to look at gauges. |
I just picked up this magazine today.. I think that the Z did very well with basically the brakes and the oil temp being their biggest complaint.
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Whaaaaaatever
An oil cooler and different pads and I do just fine at the track. |
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I do not mind losing this test to an EVO, it is fourth place that is tough to believe.
I was just at Jim Russell race school where they use stock EVO's with professional drivers. I stuck to them like glue on the paddock. On the track they were max'ed out and I was still with them. I do have an oil cooler which I can't imagine being without and well worth the expense. Here is a recap: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...chool-day.html |
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RWD cars are much different from AWD cars. For AWD, the computer basically drives the car and controls understeer and oversteer as needed. You just point the steering wheel where you wanna go and the car does the rest. RWD cars are more driver focused. The driver has to modulate throttle, brake, and steering wheel in order to direct the car in the corner and control under or oversteer. |
Hey I am looking to get a Z, is this oil temp issue a year specific or can just happen to any Z?
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Regarding the brakes, the majority of even "sports" cars would need at least pad and fluid upgrade for track use. I'm sure EVO brakes aren't the greatest either. The fact is that 95% of all Z owners just like other sports car owners will buy the car to cruise the roads. The most perfomance oriented drive they'll do is maybe a run down a mountain road on a weekend. For them a street pad is ideal. If Nissan puts aggressive track pads as standard they will whine about dust, noise, and excessive wear on the rotors. As for oil temp, yes it would have been good if Nissan offered a cooler. Maybe not standard on a base model, but at least as part of the sport package or even on the Nismo Z. But again, just as it was mentioned, most Z buyers are NOT hardcore track rats.There just isn't a demand for upgrades like that. Heck, here in Ontario, from what I've seen and heard, there are probably only 2 or 3 guys other than myself in the entire province that track their car, and even they aren't regular. And don't EVOs, at least in MR trim, have their own overheating and limp mode issues with the double clutch gearbox? At the end of the day, even with the oil and brake issues, a stock z can still pull off very fast and competitive 2 or 3 laps before needing to cool down. If you talk about a full 20-30 min session, that's a different ball game, and only a race-car-with-a-license-plate such as a viper acr or gt3rs can pull that off without aftermarket upgrades. |
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I'll admit, im not the best driver on the track. I took the Z on the track 3 times and i only been to the track once with the evo. So in no way am I pro. That being said, you take the AWD vs. RWD and the systems out of the picture, you got 2 cars, pretty much the same price but the Z being a V6 sports car, going against each other. Which car can hold up better on the track? iiunno anything about the MR having issues with the tranny because I own a GSR. However if it is having issues its just as much ******** as the 370z having oil temps. But stock for stock at my local track i can keep the rpms alot higher and have more power coming out of the turns then i could in the Z do to heating issues. Also i can brake a hell of alot harder/faster in the Evo as well.
I'm not going to seat here and beat a dead horse...think thats been done already. Like i said, if you want a nice weekend car or a car to mod...sure the 370z is a nice car. But for what i needed it for, the 370z was garbage. Having 2 seats sucked ***, couldnt carry my military kit at all (had to do 4 trips to the base to get my gear to my unit for deployment), stock wise it was useless on the track and the VDC system was garbage. Not to mention the car was a damn hit and run magnent. The Evo on the other hand can hold all my military kit, has 4 doors and can seat 5 people, it has no issues on the track and the S-AWD is amazing. Even when i turn it off the car still reacts in a well behaved manner. Also i like having something not everyone has. As each month goes by i see more and more 370z. I rarely see Evo's on the street unless we are all meeting up or going to the track. |
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I agree with the article overall. One of the reasons I just sold my high mileage Z was because of the brake fade and the engine going in to limp mode during spirited weekend drives or during prolonged high speed use. Driving from Vegas to Texas I hit limp mode multiple times and had to slow down and let the car cool down. Don't get me wrong, I'm still going to buy another Z but this time I'll put an oil cooler on the car within the first week. The only other problem that I've had with the Z that they didn't cover was the clutch fluid overheating and the pedal sticking to the floor. I even switched over to MOTUL fluid but on a few of my weekend drives I'd have the pedal stick to the floor.
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You should have known when you bought a 2 door sports coupe it wasn't going to carry much, so that "garbage" was your own fault, so don't bash the car based on that. While the Evo X is an excellent car and I would never knock it as far as performance goes, but to call the Z "garbage" based on your VERY limited driving ability and going to a track a few times. There are multiple guys here that do serious track driving and have no problem getting around a lot of Evo's and STI's the aftermarket for Mitsu and Subaru is what makes the difference.. handling wise however it is shown that this car had a faster lap time, had better skidpad grip, highest G load, and it's got better 1/4 times. Garbage? A bit of a stupid statement IMO. |
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And a good choice at that. After you learn how to drive in your beginners tuner car. Redrive a Z. An evo will at least get you where you need to be. The evo is well made for such a situation though quality is shoddy. More advanced drivers with a little extra cash for mods will choose a Z. There's no such thing as a garbage Z. Only garbage drivers that can't control them. |
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