Well I guess I just assumed. Now that I think about it, it's a part of natural wear. This is a question to be asked. Does anyone have info on this?

Im pretty sure any part that goes through a wear and tear process is not covered: tires, wiper blades, clutch, oil, trany fluid, differential fluid, etc) In order for it to be covered under warranty I think you need to prove there was a manufacturing flaw that made it wear out quicker, which in the case of clutch is very hard to prove.

It's not covered under warranty, unless I believe that the wear on the clutch is due to a malfunction of another part of the vehicle (clutch not engaging properly, not driver error) But regardless, if/when my clutch burns out... I'll happily put in an aftermarket setup and get rid of this horrid dual mass flywheel setup.

I would like to see the source on the whole coasting in neutral is less MPG than leaving it in gear.

I did this in my old 350Z all the time but it didn't have a live MPG computer. My GTO has one and the MPG is much higher when coasting in neutral as opposed to leaving it in gear. I read this thread yesterday and just tested it on my way to work.

Coasting in Neutral or Gear to Save Gas - Coasting and Fuel Economy - Popular Mechanics

found a good article on it

I think in my case since the car computes the distance into the live MPG, it makes it seem like I am using less fuel when I am actually using more. At idle the live MPG computer does show I am getting very bad gas mileage.

Really? So to clarify you should go to nuetral, brake(obviously) then take foot off clutch and put it back on when you go to move (after green)?

I really didn't know this was dangerous to cars... I've went nuetral and held clutch in with brake for years and years lol.

Have fun with the car now and maybe the clutch will last anyway.

Dangerous is a bit overstated but Ken is correct. When the clutch is depressed it is now wearing, but do not go nuts about this fact or you will not enjoy the car. It is not like doing a burn out while riding the clutch.

Besides if the car is in neautral, why hold in the clutch?

how many of you guys just let the car roll around at idle in 1st gear if you need to go very slowly with the clutch fully engaged and your foot not on the gas? some people dont realize, but you can basically just idle and move the car around like you would in an automatic with your foot off the brake.

i actually had my wiper blades replaced under warranty at my first oil change. they were streaking, and the service tech said that was a known issue on the factory wiper blades from nissan/infinity, so they replaced them for free.

only now the new ones are streaking again (replaced in Oct last year). :wtf:

yep, i had to pay ~$1500 for a new clutch on my rsx at 55k miles because the throwout bearing went due to this behavior. learned the hard way :ugh2:

Well having to replace wiper blades after a few months is abnormal, therefore, covered by warranty. In that situation its easy to prove its a manufacturing defect. Especially since it's hard to accelerate wiper blade wear. Tires and clutch are easy to wear out quick depending on driving habits.

Edit: also if wiper blade is streaking, check to see if you have any minor chips in the windshield.

hmm, i'll check it out thanks :tiphat:

Originally Posted by kenchan
Keep it in neutral until you know the light will change. Holding down clutch wears the throwout bearing.

Nah, I gotta agree with kenchan, I always keep it in neutral at lights. Who wants to have to hold the clutch in the whole time anyways?

I don't know why I hold the clutch in even while in neutral... Just a bad habit I guess. I like shifting...feels good.

hey z_girl! :tup:

I feel like a lot of people may not necessarily understand the throw out bearing (release bearing for European cars) and why it's bad to ride the clutch or always keep your clutch down at a light and while in gear.

Throwout bearings were commonly weak components on older transmissions, and I'm sure there are still some new cars out there with crappy release bearings. We had an '88 E30 325i project car that my buddies and I stripped. It was a running car with a 2.8L M52B swap from a 528i. I almost never drove the car, but within 4 months my friends managed to kill the clutch...and sure enough it was the throwout bearing, because they thought it was cool to roll up and down on hills, always keeping the car in gear with the clutch down ready for take off. The bearing began to make crazy noises and it had a ton of play when it came time to take the car apart anyway. Granted, they're both 5 years younger than me and this was about 3 years back.

I'd say sometime after the 2000s, it became a much, much smaller concern of worry for the habitual clutch holders as the bearings were manufactured to take more abuse. But older cars are the reason why people still encourage others not to put unnecessary wear on the bearing and not to hold the clutch down excessively - but it still is a part that will wear down with time. After all, when your foot is down on the clutch, the bearing WILL actually spin along with the pressure plate since it is engaging the flywheel, and then the release of your foot will engage the clutch and transfer momentum to the wheels. So why have it spin needlessly for minutes at a light, or while you coast in neutral, etc? Let go of the pedal.

Edit: For the record, I always keep my foot firmly on the brake when in neutral. I don't keep the clutch down with the car in 1st at lights.

Every. Single. Time. lol I hate that.

Another habit I have when driving my chicks car is forgetting that my vehicle takes up the whole lane. I'm so used to being able to ride on either the left or right side of the lane on my bike, that I forget I can't do that in a car.

I got a question:

For those who can't heel toe (like myself) how do you down shift? If I am braking and down shifting I usually use the clutch to rev match. Is that clutch murder?

I think you are saying slowly release the clutch while slowing down at low speed ie approaching traffic lights, right??

Ya basically. Like from 3-2 If I see traffic slowing down and i have to break i'll clutch switch gears and then hold the clutch at friction point untill revs have matched then release

As long as you don't hold it at the friction point for too long, it should be fine :icon17:

Nah not long at all. IS that a standard down shift? No one really taught me standard lol my down shifts are usually pretty quick unless i'm going into 2nd or 1st

I did this a few years ago really bad. I hit the brake so hard the ABS kicked in. Scared the sh!t out of the guy behind me. :)

Yah. I too think whoever thought of putting wide brake pedal on AT is an idiot.

Don't do this... You're riding the clutch at the friction point until revs drop. It be less stress on the car for you to just teach yourself how to rev match. Trial and error!

Or just get the Sport package SRM system :happydance:

SRM is cool until you get into another manual transmission car and need to rev match -_-

:iagree: oh wait, that's my post...

:iagree: I know the feeling since my daily car is manual as well. Somehow I got use to it though and know that unless it's the Z, I have to rev match. I more so have issues with trying to rev match with SRM on in the Z :rofl2:

:roflpuke2:

hahaha, my dd is a 6MT G35C as well. :icon17: no SRM hasn't bothered me.

I do agree with this, with the exception of a few luxury makes. In a lot of cars with very dampened clutches you can get away without a rev match downshift and not feel to much of a jolt. I've noticed nearly all Audis don't require rev matching because they are extremely dampened and they have a fairly long slip range during engagement, as opposed to the on-off button we have in our cars.

Yes, you should still do it, but they were designed that way for the average Audi consumer who is unlikely to rev match or know what a rev match is.

Agreed, other cars I've driven haven't required rev matching like the Z does. It's actually startling to feel the difference if someone drives your car with SRM off without knowing how to Rev Match (but that's why no one else drives my car).

Yeah, pretty much.

I drove the Nissan Juke Performance Motorsport used to have sitting around back in the day - I rev-matched it the first few times, and a few others time I forgot (I was half expecting it to do it for me...and half lazy since they told me I could push it around a little).

Anyway, I was pretty surprised when I realized that I did not rev match a few times and didn't feel that awful drivetrain jolt as much from the Juke as I would a 350Z, for example. Fun little car that thing was.

Thanks Ron. I used to do this till I read your post... I was under the impression it would be the other way around! but i do recall seeing this when I was kid with the difference that the ignition would be turned off when the car was coasting in neutral... and then without the crank just pop the clutch to start it back up...