The infamous "break-in" period.
 

So is the break-in period a fact or a wives tale at this point and time? I tend to believe it's the latter given the fact that nearly every car has been test driven by someone who's continuously revved the engine beyond 4k. So what are the arguments for and against?

A lot of "for" arguments out there. Here is my against argument; car is broken in by nissan before it even gets on the ship.

How do you know that?

The usual argument I hear is that they test these engines from day one, with break in, they use the "break in" period just to cover themselves still.

Yup that's what I always thought they did, that's why I bought my Z even though I redlined it while test driving and it had 45 miles on it.

Isn't the common consensus to baby it until XXXX miles so the engine doesn't get scarred up by the metal fragments?

i agree, i heard that the engines are ready to be driven hard. my dad told me that years ago, he has bought many cars and the ones that he kept for a long time are still good/great.
+ its japanese....

I hope you are all right...what are the odds that people will not redline it within a thousand miles or so...oh yea..... you cannot drive it on the freeway for extended times. I must be going to "break in" he!!. I drove my car 35 miles and then redlined it to about 120 mph and then drove 1000 miles home on the freeway in the Z. I think it cannot do any harm to properly break in a car...maybe it is like obeying the speed limits. I did change to Mobile 1 full synthetic after 2500 miles to help lube the poorly broke in engine.

Everything needs to get seated properly, lubed up, time for new driver to get used to the new vehicle, it's a 1,000 miles ( how hard can that really be ) Don't answer, I know, I'm holding out through the alloted time frame.

I don't want to sound like a conspiracy theorist, but with the "black box" tracking more and more of what we do every couple years, don't be surprised if you start seeing warranty issues denied due to not following their break in rules in the future.

good point ^^^^

This is the very thing I've wondered about and occasionally mentioned here too. Porsche will void your warranty when you do the wrong thing. Just how much information is stored in ECU? Redlines? Overheating? 160-mph junkets in blue 370z's.

:icon18:
These black boxes can record almost anything electronic (which as we all know is getting close to everything), but individual states have to approve the use of these in cases. Insurance companies cannot just use them against you at will, there are laws protecting the drive, now manufacturers is a different story and a tougher battle.

In Texas...the insurance companies in this state are very sly, cunning, and questionable at the best of times.

:bowrofl:

I dont know about Nissan so I cant say how they test there vehicles, but I do build the RX for Lexus and I can say that the tests we put it through before it comes "off-line" and ready to ship, make any reasoning for a 'break-in' period, mute

I can foresee black boxes being used by law enforcement, that could work either way though. If somebody claims that they didn't speed and they genuinely didn't. The black box will be the angel and the devil :stirthepot:

"Most modern car engines are broken in at the factory, before assembly. Therefore the old tradition of breaking in a new car doesn't apply anymore. Just drive as you normally would drive and treat the car the way you would treat anything else of value."

Are there Nissan break-in guidelines to be followed? I haven't read the manual that much yet...

http://www.the370z.com/images/370zfo...0in%20370z.PNG

other related threads:

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...k-new-car.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ak-period.html

Here's my point of view, I am not an engineer. I just listen to what those knowledgeable/highly paid Nissan Engineers want me to do.

I usually try to break in my cars, but always end up failing in the end. The throttle is just too addicting. I follow the rules for the most part, but I'm not paranoid by any means. I don't think breaking in vehicles nowadays is as important as earlier models. I suppose it doesn't hurt, but I don't think it has the benefits of old.

This may be true down the road, but I don't think current Z owners have to worry about this. The "event data recorder" in our cars only track info for about 30 seconds or less in the event of crash. There is another post floating around with more information on this. But you are totally right, the future may hold a nasty little surprise for car enthusiasts.

Edit: Here is a link to that thread in case anyone missed it and is interested.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...-recorder.html

My opinion is that, after several solid heat cycles (full operating temperature, all the way down to outside temperature), I doubt that much more breaking in is REALLY needed. But, then again, Im no mechanic, either :)

ive been doing it on all my cars so why stop now :D
it doesnt hurt to drive slow for at least 1000miles

but hey if you want to put the "pedal to the metal" who am i to judge :P

LOL, you think a motor revving at over 6k rpms needs time to get lubricated or seated properly.

Drive it hard off the lot. You will be fine.

Have you got a block heater installed yet????

Its been 1 month and 2 days and i just barely got at 9xx miles and i only went over 4k once when i was pasing somebody. I dont like doing it the slow and steady way but who am i to argue with the nissan manual.

Did you guys read that web page a fellow member posted a while back on why it's better to drive your car hard instead of the recommended process stated by the manual?

It was an interesting website.

It was interesting.

Had to be done in the first 20 miles though, and in theory the factory engine test could of achieved this already.

Before you go hauling ***, read this!







Due to these different components, "your new tires require a break-in period" to ensure that they deliver their normal ride quality and maximum performance. As tires are cured, a release lubricant is applied to prevent them from sticking in their mold. Some of the lubricant stays on the surface of your tires, "reducing traction until it is worn away".
Five hundred miles of easy acceleration, cornering and braking will allow the mold release lubricant to wear off, allowing the other tire components to begin working together. It is also important to note that your old tires probably had very little tread depth remaining when you felt it was time to replace them. As any autocrosser or racer who has tread rubber shaved off of his tires will tell you, low tread depth tires respond quicker."Don't be surprised if your new tires are a little slower to respond (even if you use the exact same tire as before). Their new, full depth brings with it a little more tread squirm until they wear down.

^ Yeah that's good info. I've taken the odd off ramp a bit quick on brand new tires and got quite a surprise!

I have no earthly idea who you could be referring to with that last little bit about 160-mph junkets. :rolleyes:

Heathens.

Some actual data (instead of speculation) from the different approach (break-in easy or drive it hard) would be nice. Do a compression, leak down, and oil analysis test, as well as a couple of dyno runs after a predetermined miles would show the effect of each approach.

An engine-builder friend once told me that over the first 1,000 miles
- Drive a new motor as you would normally around town
- For a performance engine -- run her through some higher rpm's every 75-100 miles, but not to redline. Ever. So, 10-12 run-throughts up through higher rpms within the first 1000 miles
- NEVER drive for a long period at the same speed (long trip) during this 1000 miles. but...
- take a 250 mile drive somewhere, on the freeway without stopping, and spend 10 minutes at a time holding various speeds, faster and slower. something like this.

10 mins at 55...then speed to....
60....10 minutes at 60...then speed up to...
70....10 minutes at 70...then slow to.....
55....10 minutes at 55...then speed up to...
75....10 minutes at 75...then slow to...
50....10 minutes at 50...then speed up to...

60....
Repeat.

What benefit is there to holding the car for 10 minutes at a time at RPMS that are only going to differ by maybe 1000rpm b/w the slowest and fastest speeds (50 and 70mph)? Seems to me that varying between 2000rpm and 3000rpm won't be of much additional value.

:iagree::iagree:

The engine it self needs a variety of fluctuating speeds, it will help it in the future to handle different speeds and performance.

Wow very interesting information, from an actual builder from Lexus. So can you elaborate on what kind of testing is done prior to delivery? Thanks.

All these ideas are pretty much hogwash imo.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I always like the 'first 20 mile' hypothesis because it puts the responsibility on Nissan and I could just drive like crazy when I got the car :icon18::driving:

Pretty difficult since most people will get their cars with more than 20 miles. But I do like any excuse to drive the hell out of a car.

I had a guy at the dealership tell me that my Z didnt really have a break in period because of the way its laser cut but I'm still giving it 500 miles just to make sure.