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-   -   370z hard to drive? (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/29112-370z-hard-drive.html)

Magic Bus 06-27-2012 04:28 PM

Thanks!

kenchan 06-27-2012 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miGzzz (Post 1793396)
Can someone give input with driving in traffic? With synchrorev on?

yah, i keep SRM turned on all the time unlike VDC. :icon17:

kenchan 06-27-2012 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMBmikeZ (Post 1793407)
The spring is the best bet because that will control the feel and how much back pressure there will be against your foot! The adjustments as outlined by B&W invader can still be done when the clutch spring is switched to get the desired location and set point of a depressed clutch.

:iagree: yah, the engagement point is not the problem on the Z, it's the lack of feedback from the pressure plate due to over sprung helper spring.

JohnsZ 06-28-2012 10:36 AM

:rofl2:
Quote:

Originally Posted by mhcoss (Post 1793302)
My shifts are buttery smooth 95% of the time ... just gotta get used to the car

:iagree:

Yes..."buttery smooth" 96% of the time but who's keeping track anyway! Just thought I would 1up ya. :) Gotta love our Zs! :happydance:

kenchan 06-28-2012 10:48 AM

yah, and wear the same shoes the first few weeks to familarize. that might help a newb.

JohnsZ 06-28-2012 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC24 (Post 1786885)
So after owning my Z for 5 days now, the clutch pedal has been the one thing that has been bugging the hell out of me. After searching the internet for the past couple days, I've found some information on how to adjust the engagement point, but nothing that made me feel confident in doing it. I saw B&W_Evader's post from a couple days ago that he had adjusted the engagement point, so I sent him a PM. His response is super simple, and doesn't need any pictures to figure it out.

B&W_Evader:
"Stick your nose under the dash and draw your attention up the pedal linkage. You will see a bar that goes into the floorboard. This is the bar that goes to the clutch master cylinder. You will see a clevis connecting it to the pedal and a lock nut that keeps the rod from turning. I just loosened the nut and screwed the rod in the whole way. You may not need to go that far but I had only about a turn of adjustment. I used a needle nose pliers on the nurled portion of the rod to turn it in. The posts I read said you need to watch that you don't take any of the switch positions out of place but I didn't have to do anything on mine."

In addition to the needle nose pliers, you will need a 12mm open ended wrench to loosen the jam nut.

Once I got under there and figured out how to work in the tight space, the mod took all of 3 minutes. From when I went out to the garage to when I was starting the engine to test drive it took about 5.

Huge difference, and now the clutch feels more "normal" to me (based off of the last 11 cars I've owned with manual transmissions) I took it around the block and didn't have any grinding issues or anything weird like that.

Just hoping this post will help some of you who are searching as to how to do this mod and haven't had any luck.


WHAT????? "open ended wrenches", "needle nose pliers", "Clevis'ssss", "lock nuts". I can't imagine doing any kind of work like this on my precious Z. I guess I'm just "old school" but if you have to change anything mechanical to this degree on a new Z, why bother buying it in the first place. You're making changes on an already awesome car where it won't even feel like a Z anymore. No car is perfect but the Z comes as close to perfect as possible IMO. Ever hear of something having "character"? The Z's got it...and then some! I wouldn't think of putting anything but a sponge and microfiber towel to my Z.
:worship:

hadokenuh 06-28-2012 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1795913)
yah, and wear the same shoes the first few weeks to familarize. that might help a newb.

Haha this is so true...

kenchan 06-28-2012 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ (Post 1795914)
WHAT????? "open ended wrenches", "needle nose pliers", "Clevis'ssss", "lock nuts". I can't imagine doing any kind of work like this on my precious Z. I guess I'm just "old school" but if you have to change anything mechanical to this degree on a new Z, why bother buying it in the first place. You're making changes on an already awesome car where it won't even feel like a Z anymore. No car is perfect but the Z comes as close to perfect as possible IMO. Ever hear of something having "character"? The Z's got it...and then some! I wouldn't think of putting anything but a sponge and microfiber towel to my Z.
:worship:

john - it's a frikken spring held by an e-clip. anyone can do this. now get your spring from mike, get a flash light and a long nose pair if pliers and get that thing replaced. :tup:

a quick tip from me.... place flashlight in your left hand pointing backwards so that it looks like you have a knife in your hand ready to make a kill. then push down and hold the clutch pedal with your same left hand while holding the flash light in the same orientation. you will have good visibility of the clutch spring assy.

then use your right hand to pull the e-clip out of the helper spring assy with your long nose pliers. walla. it's very easy to do.

JohnsZ 06-28-2012 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1795975)
john - it's a frikken spring held by an e-clip. anyone can do this. now get your spring from mike, get a flash light and a long nose pair if pliers and get that thing replaced. :tup:

a quick tip from me.... place flashlight in your left hand pointing backwards so that it looks like you have a knife in your hand ready to make a kill. then push down and hold the clutch pedal with your same left hand while holding the flash light in the same orientation. you will have good visibility of the clutch spring assy.

then use your right hand to pull the e-clip out of the helper spring assy with your long nose pliers. walla. it's very easy to do.

Hey Ken....thanks for the tip but the last time I held a flashlight under a dash was when I was installing my 8 Track Player in my '55 Chevy. I think you get the picture. :tiphat:

kenchan 06-28-2012 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ (Post 1796040)
Hey Ken....thanks for the tip but the last time I held a flashlight under a dash was when I was installing my 8 Track Player in my '55 Chevy. I think you get the picture. :tiphat:

:tup:

Coon-azz 06-28-2012 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by memorylasts (Post 853085)
Clutch is a bit snappy in comparison to other clutches I've driven...and randomly test driven. But I dont think it is a hard car to drive.

Agreed. I've driven cars from 1,000k to half a million dollars and I think the Z manual is no different than other performance cars in its class or $ range. I drive mine daily so I'm getting familiar with the car as I go. Coming from an aftermarket clutch/shifter i've found the Z very easy to drive. Much more unforgiving than say my Pontiac Solstice...Just my opinion, but the Z is pretty refined compared to some of its peers. Remember to compare apples to apples....

;)

kenchan 06-28-2012 01:04 PM

great iggy post coon! :tup: lol

RC24 07-19-2012 10:02 PM

So I posted a brief How-To on the clutch adjustment about a month ago. Been having an issue since shortly after my adjustment.

The iKey warning light now stays illuminated. I took the car to the dealership when it first started up, they re-programmed my keys but told me that it was from me adjusting the engagement point. I really don't see how the 2 have anything to do with each other, but now the light is becoming annoying. I think I am going to adjust the pedal back to stock and see if the light will go away. Perhaps then dial it down in small increments to figure out at what point it is throwing the light and keep it as close to there as I can without the light coming on...

Jsolo 07-19-2012 10:24 PM

^^You didn't reference a post, but did your adjustments also include adjusting the two switches the clutch pedal bracket makes contact with? One at the top of the stroke, other at the bottom.

If not, perhaps one or both of these switches are not actuating properly resulting in a confused computer.

CrownR426 07-19-2012 10:46 PM

I love the way the Z drives!
Traffic is no problem!

RC24 07-19-2012 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jsolo (Post 1828970)
^^You didn't reference a post, but did your adjustments also include adjusting the two switches the clutch pedal bracket makes contact with? One at the top of the stroke, other at the bottom.

If not, perhaps one or both of these switches are not actuating properly resulting in a confused computer.

I didn't change the settings on either of the switches, so that is most likely it. I'm going to get back under there tomorrow and take a closer look at everything and see if I can get this worked out.

I'm hoping the light will clear itself rather than having to take the car back to the dealership.

sungear 07-20-2012 02:00 AM

Out of the many different aspects of clutch and transmission operation mentioned here, one caught my eye and that is the clunkiness of the 1-2 shift than some people have experienced. For me, the best way to get a smooth shift every time is to double-clutch. As a matter of routine I double-clutch all of my up and down shifts involving gears 1 through 4 and I get quiet, smooth shifts every time. A little more work, but well worth it for me!. As always, YMMV.

UNKNOWN_370 07-20-2012 10:22 AM

Just throwing in some input on Z performance, I know the Z isnt the fastest or best handling car out there but... it's point and shoot handling, fast acceleration and impeccable cornering are a great combination. The Z feels very poised with the vdc on. VDC off and the Z is a bucking sliding bronco that is dangerously fun to drive and this mode should only be used by experienced drivers on a closed road. Though the Z sounds and interior arent refined. i find the performance to feel like more money was put into making this car handle like a light sports car and accelerate like a muscle car. its not the best or the fastest of either. But in combination... no muscle car compares to its handling and no light sports car compares in power except maybe a lotus. Again, you are spending a lot more money to get that combination and for the lotus to be better as a light sports car. Only the porsche cayman is more refined at doing the same thing. Again, its double the money.
In spite of needing an aftermarket oil cooler, motul rbf 600 brake fluid, brake cooler and upgraded pads as standard first mods. The z is highly capable and i think its a lot og bang for the buck. Nearly i year owning my 11 and a few months on my 09 and i cant say im the least bit tired of my car.
The Z isn't without needing $3000 just to fix flaws and make improvements such as upgrading brakes, refining suspension and needing an cooling in a couple of areas before even touching the motor... Once addressed, this car is wicked.

Davey 07-20-2012 11:35 AM

I think the Z sport package is awesome right out of the dealer lot. If you're going to track it, you'll need to upgrade, but name another car for ~35K that you won't.

binary0x01 07-20-2012 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sungear (Post 1829186)
Out of the many different aspects of clutch and transmission operation mentioned here, one caught my eye and that is the clunkiness of the 1-2 shift than some people have experienced. For me, the best way to get a smooth shift every time is to double-clutch. As a matter of routine I double-clutch all of my up and down shifts involving gears 1 through 4 and I get quiet, smooth shifts every time. A little more work, but well worth it for me!. As always, YMMV.

I do that and also, heavier shift knob helped 'unbelievably' much... it is really strange how much better the shifting is with a heavy shift knob, stupid good.


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