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Thank you lord! I still have problems from 1st to 2nd, i thought it was just me getting used to a MT again. |
It sounds just like my 06 G35 I used to have. It wasn't the power of the car because i've driven cars with less power and torque and also cars with more power and torque but it was just a tricky clutch to get used to.
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I didn't read all 11 pages but I will say this. From my experience, my two Z's, '09 coupe and current '10 roadster, shift easier than my previously owned '96 Ford Aspire and current 2011 Honda Civic coupe. There is nothing wrong with the gearbox in a Z other than the annoying clunk.
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Before getting my G, I test drove all 3 (370z, g37 coupe and sedan). I honestly can't say any of these three shift differently from one another. In stock form, all have vague clutch feel with narrow friction zone. The weaker clutch spring does help alot. However, if you got $$$, there is a fully adjustable replacement clutch pedal assembly available. IIRC something like $200 or $250 for the kit.
More info available here *RJM Performance.com - Home For me, the weaker spring is a fine fix. I'm used to driving cars with heavy clutch pedals that have high uptake and small friction zones (my late 90's camaro was very similar). |
Ive only owned my z for a month and I do notice the z's clutch tends to feel just on and off. Ive driven other cars and IMO its probably the most challenging (but not difficult) cars to drive.
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stalled once so far, but it was because I was trying to feel for the sweet spot in the clutch haha/:driving: |
^^^Yeah, slamming the clutch down too fast in 1st and even slower speeds in 2nd, makes this awful noise of the clutch and flywheel disengaging.
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There's a parking garage I exit often that is on a slope and terminates into traffic so the transmission is under stress as you slowly spiral up the slope and then you're forced to abruptly engage the clutch and brake to avoid a collision and then you're greeted with that "clackity clackity clack" sound.
I hate it. |
^weird i've notice that to with my car?!? I dont know what the hell that is!
wow the small things that annoy us about our z's haha |
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I've had my 370Z for just about a week now and have gotten the shifting down to a science especially going from 1st to 2nd. Very simply...make sure your RPM's are between 3K and 3.5K. Smooth as silk :)
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I did not / have not found this car difficult to drive, just different. I got right out of a 2000 Honda Civic Ex MT (Since 2001), into the Z (2012) and drove off the lot with no problem (no stalls). The Z has basically 3x the HP, which is one of the main reasons it feels different for me :tup:
This could have something to do with the method used when I was taught how to drive a manual transmission, and my dad never letting me forget that when girls are riding in the car, they don't want to feel you shifting gears...He parked in the middle of a hill in my neighborhood, told me when I could get up the hill, I could drive a manual trans, this was in a '98 4-Cylinder Ford Ranger...He's not a redneck haha. |
if you stall this car, you definitely suck at driving MT's... lol
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:iagree: lol-I sucked before I left the lot-I no longer suck at driving a MT-Zzzzzz :tup: |
Persnickety
I find that the combination of a hydraulic clutch, overly helpful helper spring, meager low end torque, a very short clutch engagement and a choppy 'digital' throttle make for a very difficult-to-drive-smooth car.
I'm surprised there's not more bitching on here about the hydraulic clutch. I've never driven one I like better than a cabled version. They just seem to remove all the feel. Not to mention the 'bounce' that hydraulic circuit can introduce. It's like a resonance wave in the hydraulic fluid - get the release wrong and it can induce crazy clutch chatter. I've never experienced clutch chatter on a healthy cabled clutch but find it to be pervasive on hydraulic clutches. That being said almost all those issues become moot when driven aggressively. When I'm really getting on it I don't even for one second think about anything but how kick *** this car is - which is, of course, why I bought it! |
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1st I did the clutch helper spring, didn't feel a perceptable change 2nd I adjusted the pedal engage point, night and day difference What I still think is still wrong with it... 1) Springs in the clutch plate are too soft giving it a choppy engagement. In my opinion, that's the jerkyness you feel getting off the line sometimes. 2) Pressure plate is too soft. You should be a able to get more snap out of it. Hell, my leg doesn't even get tired in stop and go traffic. 3) I'd like a lighter flywheel too. You shouldn't see a big change in RPM during engagement anyway. It's just there to make getting off the line easier. I'm not going to take the transmission out to fix this stuff untill it needs to come out for some other reason. |
Yeah, the heavy flywheel is not what I'd like to see in a sports car.
I'm OK with harder to drive if there is a reason for it. It's almost like SRM was an excuse to use an even heavier flywheel and have a laggy throttle response. Trying to heel-and-toe the Z without SRM is pretty frustrating. |
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While I didn't stall driving it off the lot, I do remember a few things that were strange about the clutch pedal / pedal orientation after first purchasing the car. Every time I would shift, I would accidentally still have my foot on the gas slightly when engaging the clutch. This would cause the engine to rev, like I was trying to blip the throttle to downshift, except this would happen when I was shifting up. Thinking about it now, this probably does have much to do with the orientation of the pedals / and strange clutch release point.
I've never owned a car worthy of the track, at least to me, so I've never really driven in a "Race" environment. So I guess for me, I just adjusted to the car and really haven't had any issues with driving it since the adjustment. I'm sure my size 14's don't hurt though, when it comes to reaching the awkwardly distanced brake, and gas pedals at the same time. |
So after owning my Z for 5 days now, the clutch pedal has been the one thing that has been bugging the hell out of me. After searching the internet for the past couple days, I've found some information on how to adjust the engagement point, but nothing that made me feel confident in doing it. I saw B&W_Evader's post from a couple days ago that he had adjusted the engagement point, so I sent him a PM. His response is super simple, and doesn't need any pictures to figure it out.
B&W_Evader: "Stick your nose under the dash and draw your attention up the pedal linkage. You will see a bar that goes into the floorboard. This is the bar that goes to the clutch master cylinder. You will see a clevis connecting it to the pedal and a lock nut that keeps the rod from turning. I just loosened the nut and screwed the rod in the whole way. You may not need to go that far but I had only about a turn of adjustment. I used a needle nose pliers on the nurled portion of the rod to turn it in. The posts I read said you need to watch that you don't take any of the switch positions out of place but I didn't have to do anything on mine." In addition to the needle nose pliers, you will need a 12mm open ended wrench to loosen the jam nut. Once I got under there and figured out how to work in the tight space, the mod took all of 3 minutes. From when I went out to the garage to when I was starting the engine to test drive it took about 5. Huge difference, and now the clutch feels more "normal" to me (based off of the last 11 cars I've owned with manual transmissions) I took it around the block and didn't have any grinding issues or anything weird like that. Just hoping this post will help some of you who are searching as to how to do this mod and haven't had any luck. |
As far as stalling it: It's the exhaust restriction. I stalled mine a couple of times with the factory exhaust. After putting on Fast Intentions exhaust I didn't have issues with stalling it in first. The manual Z is work. Sometimes you have to drive it like you don't give a D#$% to make it move. Just do it.
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this is wat i used. http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/8657/865797_300.jpg |
:tup: Ya got me!
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here you go: http://www.the370z.com/drivetrain-en...n-72577-a.html |
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Oh wait. I'm sorry. I didn't realize you were joking. That's pretty funny. |
I'm still not sure if that post was a joke or not, so I totally avoided it.
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My shifts are buttery smooth 95% of the time ... just gotta get used to the car
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Thanks for the BUMP kenchan! +1 repped |
Can someone give input with driving in traffic? With synchrorev on?
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But, got a couple questions, can you lower the clutch pick point and use the new spring as well? Or would doing just one work fine? What have you guys done out there? |
The spring is the best bet because that will control the feel and how much back pressure there will be against your foot! The adjustments as outlined by B&W invader can still be done when the clutch spring is switched to get the desired location and set point of a depressed clutch.
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