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-   -   Too soon to modify? thoughts/advice. (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/21538-too-soon-modify-thoughts-advice.html)

HATED1 07-06-2010 01:57 PM

thanks for the info guys.

spearfish25 07-06-2010 02:08 PM

How's the Kobalt? I suppose I could swing $50 more for the Dewalt if the Kobalt is only so-so.

m4a1mustang 07-06-2010 02:31 PM

It's pretty nice. Heavy and big, though. I think the Dewalt is a little smaller and might have a lower peak torque rating. I'm happy with the Kobalt...

HATED1 07-06-2010 03:13 PM

So im deciding to go with the 20mm ichiba version 2 all around, question though, these will fit in the front correct? and willl these require new lug nuts to mount the wheels back on? stupid questions i know, but just want to make sure, thanks again.

m4a1mustang 07-06-2010 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HATED1 (Post 608853)
So im deciding to go with the 20mm ichiba version 2 all around, question though, these will fit in the front correct? and willl these require new lug nuts to mount the wheels back on? stupid questions i know, but just want to make sure, thanks again.

I don't know anything about Kics, but if I were you I would just go with H&R DRS (stud replacement) spacers all around. Top quality and the stud replacement is very easy. Just borrow an impact gun if you don't have one.

kenchan 07-06-2010 03:55 PM

i run Kics on my cars (including my Z). you will need to order the hubcentric rings separately. these are hubcentric wheels so you will want the rings for sure. otherwise too much burden on the studs and could fail.

i run just the rear 15mm's. front is stock.

another choice is ichiba. they look similar to the kics and includes the rings. if you use 20mm i think you can get away with not replacing the studs on the fronts.

HATED1 07-06-2010 07:55 PM

.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang (Post 608874)
I don't know anything about Kics, but if I were you I would just go with H&R DRS (stud replacement) spacers all around. Top quality and the stud replacement is very easy. Just borrow an impact gun if you don't have one.

Hey m4a1mustang thanks for your advice, after further research and mixed reviews it looks like i will go this route.

thanks guys fort the heads up on things!

LunaZ 07-06-2010 09:26 PM

IIRC, a post on vibration issues experienced with the Ichiba spacers said it had to do with its two-piece design and slightly short hubcentric ring.
This was the main reason I decided to go H&R.
I was able to install my new studs with simple hand tools.

m4a1mustang 07-06-2010 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LunaZ (Post 609595)
IIRC, a post on vibration issues experienced with the Ichiba spacers said it had to do with its two-piece design and slightly short hubcentric ring.
This was the main reason I decided to go H&R.
I was able to install my new studs with simple hand tools.

Can you elaborate on how you were able to pull the new studs in all the way? It would be very helpful for everyone without ready access to an impact gun. :tup:

LunaZ 07-07-2010 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang (Post 609610)
Can you elaborate on how you were able to pull the new studs in all the way? It would be very helpful for everyone without ready access to an impact gun. :tup:

Doing the rears, the axle has a good bit of friction and doesn't want to spin easily. I guess you could also put the car in gear.
As for the fronts, as you tightened each stud down, fit the box end of a large wrench over one of the existing studs and lever it between another stud to apply force opposite the direction that you're tightening the replacement stud.
Using spacers, washers and an open end lug nut, I found it didn't take a whole lot of torque to pull the stud into place with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

m4a1mustang 07-07-2010 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LunaZ (Post 609960)
Doing the rears, the axle has a good bit of friction and doesn't want to spin easily. I guess you could also put the car in gear.
As for the fronts, as you tightened each stud down, fit the box end of a large wrench over one of the existing studs and lever it between another stud to apply force opposite the direction that you're tightening the replacement stud.
Using spacers, washers and an open end lug nut, I found it didn't take a whole lot of torque to pull the stud into place with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

Sounds good. I know I had to hit the studs a good bit with my impact gun to seat them all the way, so I wasn't sure how difficult it'd be to do them by hand.

sonic370 07-07-2010 07:03 PM

wonder why does the front seem higher than the rear.
it must be the long hood

HATED1 07-07-2010 08:27 PM

so i made my order from Josh at Stillen, so far great customer service and reponse, i will post pics when i get all of the items installed, 15/20 h&R drs, H&R sport springs, Eibach rear camber arms/toe bolts.

wheee! 07-07-2010 09:04 PM

Check out the Stillen Blog page for the DIY articles. Both my 15mm front and 20mm rear install instructions are posted there from when I did my own H&R Spacers. Cheers.

H&R TRAK+ DRS 15mm Front Wheel Spacer Install – Nissan 370Z : STILLEN

H&R TRAK+ DRS 20mm Rear Wheel Spacer Install ? Nissan 370Z : STILLEN

PapoZalsa 07-07-2010 09:22 PM

I want to lower mine but will have wait until I installed the F.I. I scrap in my drivewy at stock height.


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