Too soon to modify? thoughts/advice.
 

So im planning on lowering the car with H&R springs, 20mm bolt on spacers all around, and the SPC rear camber kit. My question is that should i wait until after at least the break in period or after the first oil change to do this? I already know my suspension warranty will be void, but is there anything im not considering? BTW the car only has about 60 miles. I like it but the ride height is killing me. It seems as if the front is heigher than the rear. thoughts/advice?

You can do all the Mods you're planing on without any issues.
Just wait a week for the H&R springs to settle, and have it aligned.

You don't have to wait, especially not for that.

What, you didn't order the parts before you took delivery of the car?!?!?

Bolt on spacers won't work on the front...You need to do the extended lug style.... There is not the cut-out in the front wheels like in the back. How-to in the DIY section

mod 20 mm will work in the front ... but I would be cautious with using ichiba's bolt on stud spacers in the front, they introduced some wheel vibration at higher speeds when installed... But did fit with no issues other than the vibration.

but the 20mm and up bolt on spacers do fit... anything smaller than 20mm wont fit up front unless its a stud replacement spacer ...

IMO just get H&R Spacers though, that are indeed stud replacement... but higher quality imo

Vibration at speed... ummm, wouldn't that be due to the wheel not properly seating against the spacer? Eventually it will shear the lugs off.

Ah..OK...I know 15mm's won't work....Guess that extra 5mm clears the wheel cut-outs.

http://images47.fotki.com/v1476/phot...MG_1548-vi.jpg

I ordered new suspensions the day after I got my z. I don't have any vibrations with my spacers. I don't think h&r makes 20mm bolt ons. But you do need 20mm to clear the bolt.

I should be safe using the 20mm bolt on by kics, i assume. But i appreciate all the heads up info. Waiting for a repsponse from our sponsors on pricing, then it's on! Thanks guys!

just get a hacksaw and cut the protruding stock studs. ;)

Seriously, just do the stud replacement.
It's easier than you think!

+1!

If doing the stud replacement, someone mentioned you need to use an air wrench to pull the lugs through as they'll spin the whole hub if you try a regular wrench. Thoughts or tricks for this?

If you use a regular wrench you need some way to lock the hub in place. If you don't use an impact gun it's going to be impossible to pull them in.

I just went out and bought a Kobalt electric impact gun for around $120. It is fantastic to have in the garage!

thanks for the info guys.

How's the Kobalt? I suppose I could swing $50 more for the Dewalt if the Kobalt is only so-so.

It's pretty nice. Heavy and big, though. I think the Dewalt is a little smaller and might have a lower peak torque rating. I'm happy with the Kobalt...

So im deciding to go with the 20mm ichiba version 2 all around, question though, these will fit in the front correct? and willl these require new lug nuts to mount the wheels back on? stupid questions i know, but just want to make sure, thanks again.

I don't know anything about Kics, but if I were you I would just go with H&R DRS (stud replacement) spacers all around. Top quality and the stud replacement is very easy. Just borrow an impact gun if you don't have one.

i run Kics on my cars (including my Z). you will need to order the hubcentric rings separately. these are hubcentric wheels so you will want the rings for sure. otherwise too much burden on the studs and could fail.

i run just the rear 15mm's. front is stock.

another choice is ichiba. they look similar to the kics and includes the rings. if you use 20mm i think you can get away with not replacing the studs on the fronts.

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Hey m4a1mustang thanks for your advice, after further research and mixed reviews it looks like i will go this route.

thanks guys fort the heads up on things!

IIRC, a post on vibration issues experienced with the Ichiba spacers said it had to do with its two-piece design and slightly short hubcentric ring.
This was the main reason I decided to go H&R.
I was able to install my new studs with simple hand tools.

Can you elaborate on how you were able to pull the new studs in all the way? It would be very helpful for everyone without ready access to an impact gun. :tup:

Doing the rears, the axle has a good bit of friction and doesn't want to spin easily. I guess you could also put the car in gear.
As for the fronts, as you tightened each stud down, fit the box end of a large wrench over one of the existing studs and lever it between another stud to apply force opposite the direction that you're tightening the replacement stud.
Using spacers, washers and an open end lug nut, I found it didn't take a whole lot of torque to pull the stud into place with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

Sounds good. I know I had to hit the studs a good bit with my impact gun to seat them all the way, so I wasn't sure how difficult it'd be to do them by hand.

wonder why does the front seem higher than the rear.
it must be the long hood

so i made my order from Josh at Stillen, so far great customer service and reponse, i will post pics when i get all of the items installed, 15/20 h&R drs, H&R sport springs, Eibach rear camber arms/toe bolts.

Check out the Stillen Blog page for the DIY articles. Both my 15mm front and 20mm rear install instructions are posted there from when I did my own H&R Spacers. Cheers.

H&R TRAK+ DRS 15mm Front Wheel Spacer Install – Nissan 370Z : STILLEN

H&R TRAK+ DRS 20mm Rear Wheel Spacer Install ? Nissan 370Z : STILLEN

I want to lower mine but will have wait until I installed the F.I. I scrap in my drivewy at stock height.