How to break in my new 370Z Nismo?
 

Hey. I just brought home my new 2010 370Z Nismo on Friday and the salesman told me to stay under 3,000 rpms for the first 1,000 miles. Is that good advice? Are there other things I should be doing to break it in?

Thanks.

How to break in my new 370Z Nismo?
 

Hey. I just brought home my new 2010 370Z Nismo on Friday and the salesman told me to stay under 3,000 rpms for the first 1,000 miles. Is that good advice? Are there other things I should be doing to break it in?

Thanks.

How to break in my new 370Z Nismo?
 

Hey. I just brought home my new 2010 370Z Nismo on Friday and the salesman told me to stay under 3,000 rpms for the first 1,000 miles. Is that good advice? Are there other things I should be doing to break it in?

Thanks.

Run it run it run it.

Who the hell sells a car you cant go over 3000 rpms for 1000 miles. As long as you dont dog it out like a mad man just drive the car normal.

yes thats pretty safe advice but at 1k or 1,500 miles get the oil changed.

Welcome and Congrats! :hello:

Ok, AK please lock this thread after my post...

There are a million threads on this forum regarding engine break it, but here are the two different view points that are argued every time:

1. Go by the book. Keep the revs under 4000 rpm for 1200 miles, try not to drive the same speed for long periods of time, etc (in the car manual).

2. Drive it like you stole it. From day one, drive the car like you would normally because with the manufacturing tolerances these days, the traditional engine break-in period does not really apply anymore.

Use the search function on the forum or Google if you want more info.

Just something I have found in mototuneusa.



What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Here's How To Do It:
There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:

1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
3) on the racetrack


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
Frequently asked Question:

What's a dyno ??

A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and power is measured.

It can also be used to break in an engine.


NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.

1. Get a full tank of gas.
2. Put the car in neutral.
3. Mash the gas, and keep it redlined until you have used up most of the fuel.

That way the engine knows who is boss, and what you expect of it.

1. Get a full tank of gas.
2. Put the car in neutral.
3. Mash the gas, and keep it redlined until you have used up most of the fuel.

That way the engine knows who is boss, and what you expect of it.

No need to lock a thread when nothing has been said to warrent it. Yet.

How about the fact he made three of them?

Or just hump the car to show dominance and obbediance.

Now you're thinkin'

OK we might need to lock this thread. LOL.

He is new!! And maybe not to familiar were to post his question?
How quickly we forget how we started here! :shakes head:

And when I was new, you guys ragged me out too, lest we forget.

you're an exception :bowrofl:

Theres one to every rule, damn.

:bowrofl::roflpuke2:

bwahaha :bowrofl::bowrofl: :tiphat:

:icon18::icon18:

dejavu

all over again

its another parallel dimension.

Please explain to me why the factory nissan maintenance schedule calls for the first oil change at 3750 miles and no-specific breakin method, but you think he needs to change the oil at 1500 miles (which, if undocumented, will actually void his warranty)

Nissan (or any carmaker) wouldnt take the risk of selling a sports car that would suffer irreparable damage from being driven hard right off the lot. If not taking it easy for 1500 miles and changing the oil only halfway to the first one on the maintenance schedule actually caused severe damage to the engine, Nissan would be out hundreds of thousands (if not more) in warranty engine replacements.

Can an admin please merge this into this thread?

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...70z-nismo.html

The manual does list a break in schedule on page 5-22.

During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km),
follow these recommendations to obtain
maximum engine performance and
ensure the future reliability and economy
of your new vehicle.
Failure to follow these recommendations
may result in shortened engine
life and reduced engine performance.
. Avoid driving for long periods at constant
speed, either fast or slow. Do not run the
engine over 4,000 rpm.
. Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.
. Avoid quick starts.
. Avoid hard braking as much as possible.

E

Well I never noticed that, but that kindve negates those who drive long distances to pick up their cars.

Heck, my car was 45 minutes away on another lot and they had to bring it to me.

It also still doesnt say the oil needs to be changed before schedule.

Not really because you're cruising in high gear most of the time at around 2300 rpm.

but it said "Avoid driving for long periods of time, iether fast or slow"

45 mins is not long, and you're going to slow down sometime during the trip so you are also varying the engine speed

you keep going to redline all gears

Hammer and baseball bat.

Do that and do not keep the rpm at a constant rpm all the time... After it's done, Get an oil change.


That's it that's all... lock this lock...lol

Proper way to break in a car:

http://www.joke-portal.com/car_sex.jpg

HAHAHA that pic is awesome

Thread merge!