TT or NA?
 

You guys are awesome! You all have been mad helpful with my other questions I really appreciate it! My next question is this…the Z is my first sports car and I love it. However I don’t feel it’s fast enough or loud enough for me. I was going to save up and buy a turbo kit at some point but some people in the forum have told me the couple of upgrades I’ve done are counter productive to that and I’d have to remove them when I get a TT kit anyways. So is it worth it to turbo/supercharge a 370z? Or should I just upgrade the car with natural aspiration parts then move on and maybe buy a vette or put myself in debt for a GTR or something else? (2013 370 base 7AT 50k miles, borla S type catback, z1 CAI)

7AT? Sell it and buy a faster car.

If you had started with a Sport or a NISMO, you would have been closer to your goal already.
Bolt-on parts on a NA motor will get you around 340HP at the back wheels on a stick shift. (A little less with an AT.). A NISMO starts around 295 RWHP, a Sport with about 15 - 18 HP less, with a better diff on both (not a great one, a better one).
If you were going to build a higher HP car, you're probably starting from a good place, since the motor, trans and body are the same thru the line, but be aware you will have to change a LOT of parts to make it work. I would be leery of running a stock motor over about the 450 RWHP mark. (I haven't looked at the forced induction kits, so I don't know offhand what kind of power they make.)
Our cars are quick out of the box, but mustangs and comatose (snerk. WTG spell check! Comaros) are faster, with more options to upgrade. You have to WANT to drive something everyone else doesn't have, and be willing to spend a few dimes to upgrade. If all you want is fast and loud (shudder), there are cheaper options.



Kirk B.

Well, that is a loaded question. It all depends on what you want to do. It does sound like your driver skills are limited. You may want to keep what you have and take some driving courses, etc. It was cheaper to build my car instead of buying a 2019 Corvette ZR1. That car was around $140,000 MSRP new. Take some time and think about it. It is up to you. Modifying cars is not cheap and you are your own warranty station.

And you can still do everything right, order a good turbo kit, and then the POS COMPturbo will fail after 882 miles the day before a Z meetup. Hypothetically speaking.

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fifu

That's a lot like asking who should I marry - it all depends on what you want and what you can afford.

While the stock Z is pretty peppy, it's not a muscle car. Its forte is handling. As others have mentioned, with FI you can get some very respectable HP, which might be enough for you. If you just want to feel your spine sink into the seat back, you have a lot of options. Which option is right for you? Only you can determine that.

You got really think about what you want in all things. Boosting a Z is not cheap and doing it right will save you lots of money in the future. Sounds like you can't drive or want a manual so a mild build is the best choice, something around 500whp. Plan on spending 20 to 30k to do it right with all the supporting mods. Or save that money and buy something else. Most of us that built our Zs, either our self or paid for it and love the fact that we have one offs vs simply buying a performance car. Plusses are our cars have better performance than many bought cars, the cost to mod a more expensive sport car can be a lot more expensive, the cost of maintenance is less or equal, insurance and registration are much cheaper and every time I add a mod big or small I get that new car feeling again.

Also, in the sex appeal category the Z is breaks necks even when cars five times their value are around. At car meets or at the track people will walk right past way more expensive cars to talk to me about my Z. Many don't have a clue about value of a Z and their response is man it must be nice to own a $100,000 car. It is unique and I am all about that!

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You’re absolutely right! Driving something different is exactly why I got the Z! A lot of people in my area have muscle cars and focuses I wanted something different I’m not looking for insane speeds I’m happy with around 360-400 hp I understand it’s a v6 and an auto. I wasn’t able to find a nismo or sport in my budget and I also got a great deal on the 7AT. I’m really just looking for guidance with what bolt ons can get me to that level or if I should forego the bolt ons and save for a high quality turbo kit and installation.

Right right! And no I’m not looking for crazy crazy speeds however I would like to maximize my gains. And although it’s not a v8 I’ve definitely heard some pretty guttural sounding Zs. They just happened to seem quick too

1. The Z is a good sports car.
2. The AT does hold back a little in how the car feels I think for you.
3. Replacing the whole exhaust would be more effective then replacing the car. Test pipes or Long Tube Headers and a much less conservative cat back. A tune might help too
4. How many HP did your previous car have?

I previously drove a ram 1500 sport which had around 395 but it was a truck so idk if that counts. Also I’ve messed about in my dads Porsche Panamera but that’s a completely different kind of car. I’m not a pro driver by any means but I have some very little experience driving fast cars.

V different experience. I was plenty happy with my Nismo being N/A with a tune, CAIs, HFCs, and F.I. exhaust... until I boosted and got hooked.

After you put all the Bolt-on mods on, the biggest thing is a tune. I've driven my Z when it was N/A with a tune and with no tune and the difference is INSANE.

if buying the car is already ******* with your budget


how the **** you gonna afford a TT set up?

It's easily $10K in parts alone

The 7AT is not the most appropriate Z for boosting, unless you want to get into trans upgrades (and based on your OP, you probably dont).


So no, I wouldn't boost my Z if I were you.

We all know you have $100k in yours though.....:nutswinger:

At the time of purchase of the car I had a different job. And yes the particular kit I was looking at was about 13xxx I’m just trying to figure out where to go with this build or whether I should move on to a different car.

When you say trans upgrades are you referring to like the flex plate and other parts or a trans swap? Because I actually was thinking about that

LMAO, over the nine years of ownership and constant upgrades well maybe! I would say don't tell my wife but she knows and so it has cost me double!!!

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If you get the Fast Intentions TT kit and their flex plate you should be fine at 500 whp or less. It is the supporting mods that add to your motors life....well besides a well done safe tune! Reach out Sébastien at Specialty Z and he will give you the straight skinny on boosting your auto Z.

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Mod the nut behind the wheel first and enjoy the relative reliability of the car n/a. Start doing hpde events or drag racing if that’s your thing, and that’s a much better use of your $$.

You don’t sound very knowledgeable about cars (not meant as an insult, we all started out like you at some point), ignorance + fi on a non factory fi’d car is begging for a disaster imo.

If you’re dead set on forced induction, you’ve got about 6-12 months of intensive study ahead of you, start reading up, both here as well as about turbos, superchargers, engine and transmissions, differentials etc.

And for the love of god, if you have any ounce of sense in your young brain, don’t go into some debt spiral for a gtr or any other car for that matter.

Which segways nicely into another fi issue, always pay cash for your mods and keep an extra 10k in a savings account for when your motor goes boom. I say when bc ol Murphy has a nasty habit of rearing his ugly head at the worst possible time.

13K sounds about right for a kit. But then there's all the other miscellaneous stuff you need. And then there is all the other stuff you should get. And finally there's all the stuff that would be nice to get since you are already tearing the car apart and have easy access to those areas. Then there is the question can I do it myself and not have the Z for a month or more, or do I spend more and have it professionally done in a few weeks.

I don't know what your budget is but seeing that the AT already puts an upper limit on power/torque an SC kit would probably make more sense. Things that you really should get on top of what ever FI you go with are a oil catch can, gauges (oil pressure, boost, AFR). Also don't forget about all the fluids and extra wires, hoses, cables, connectors you'll need will add up. Also probably best to do engine and trans mounts. And then probably a proper diff and diff mount.

Also keep your front crash bar because **** happens.

That is why this is a thing for me! Custom bash bar love...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c2914ba317.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...93de6a4f53.jpg

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Any word on your car Bob?

Still in hurry up and wait mode! No updates unfortunately.

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This is great for a dedicated track car, but I would strongly urge anyone who still plans to have a car they drive on the street, insured etc., to keep the factory crash bar/safety systems intact.

Your crash bar looks very stout but that could also mean transferring more force from a frontal collision into the occupants of the vehicle. Probably much less of an issue when you’re already rocking a full cage, 5pt harness, HANS device, etc., but none of that should be in a street car or streetable track car. :driving:

:iagree:

LMAO, my car has been fully registered and insured since I bought it! I live in the great state of AZ we don't like like government rules. That said you ain't wrong LMAO!!!

The fact is most twin turbo kits result in the loss of the OEM front crash bar so either way you may have to deal with the consequences if you rear end someone or hit something because you loss control of your vehicle.

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Totally off-topic, I think I ran into you on Blvd East in Guttenberg. I was in my black Z. We had a very brief exchange. Whats up!

I’m in FL, pretty much anything goes here as well, but just cause you can do something, doesn’t mean you should. :tup:

Back in the 60’s and early 70’s, formula one wrecks were almost always guaranteed death for the drivers. The teams/engineers put their heads together and thought well, if we make the cars stronger and more rigid, then that’ll keep the driver in a safe space since the current cars were essentially crushing like a cheap tin can and killing the driver.

So they developed cromoly tube chassis race cars that were super tough. Then something unexpected happened. The cars were getting into horrible wrecks and the vehicles were taking far less damage but the drivers were still dying. Even wrecks that didn’t look too terrible we’re resulting in serious injuries.

They found out that the energy from the crashes was being transferred to the weakest part of the vehicle, the driver. The cars were too strong and stiff. They realized they needed sacrificial energy absorbing crumple zones to help diffuse the impact energy and then a strong tub around the driver to prevent crush injuries.

I personally would say if a crash bar up front needs to go to fit the IC, then on a street car, just let the IC act as the crash bar if you must or mod the factory one to still fit, better than nothing and for a street car, better than a super rigid set up like yours.

I’m only being a “safety nazi” bc the OP isn’t too experienced or knowledgeable and there could be other people reading this in that same boat who may not understand why we’re/I’m harping on this. You’ve been around the block a few times, you understand the trade offs your making for better on track safety vs on street safety. :driving:

Heh - the #1 location people are moving to AZ from is.... CA

and they LOVE Gov't. They cannot get enough Gov't. I did 1.5 years in AZ,
then picked a different state. :driving:

Man, I would first start by asking myself some very real questions and being honest with your answers. From what you've stated you don't sound prepared to take on the financial aspect of a turbo situation. You also said that reason you got your Z was because you did not want to be like everyone else yet you're considering the option of getting a corvette? No offense meant but you sound rather confused. Owning a Z to me is more than just having a car. It's a lifestyle. You become part of a very unique extended family. We are a very diverse group of people but there is almost an unexplainable common core that unites us all. So yea, if all you want is a fast car then sell the Z and go get a corvette. However, if your objective is to be a part of something bigger, priceless, and lasting, then keep what you have and optimize it by learning from the veterans right here on this forum. I know that's what I've been doing.

Your not wrong! After being TT I did no crash bar and then got a Fast Intentions crash bar. The Z is a dedicated track car now and crash bar is a little over kill I admit but it also the mounting platform for the splitter and splitter rods.

My car meets and mostly exceeds all safety requirements for NASA and SCCA. I originally posted the crash bar for comic relief. That said it has been a good discussion.

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The great thing about a Z it unique and it is made for modding any way you choose. I love Corvettes but ain't a Z and I chose to make mine faster than one. It is not a GTR either and is faster and better handling than most. I get all the attention I want and more. I love the that the OP put himself out there because a lot of newbies are contemplating their options. To each there own enjoy the journey. I'm on into my tenth year of ownership and I had no clue it would end like it has. So much fun!

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You left room for another Californian? :gtfo2:

And here I was packing all my stuff so I could move in with you :ugh2:

You know I got a room with your name on it!

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/\ excellent post. OP, PLS read this again bc it’s extremely on point.

As someone I consider a “forum friend” (hope to meet in real life someday, so get your azz to a Daytona or Sebring hpde already), I kinda figured you posted your crash bar pic for :happydance:

But any excuse to engage in a bit of a technical discussion is always fun and good for the ‘ol noggin. :tup:

I always try to come at topics from the most dumbed down and simple perspective since I’m not very smart, I also try to remember there’s alot of less experienced folks that read this stuff, like the OP, and it’s important to provide both sides of the argument so to speak so they get more educated.

:driving:

I hope you don't snore :icon17: