We all know you have $100k in yours though.....:nutswinger:

At the time of purchase of the car I had a different job. And yes the particular kit I was looking at was about 13xxx I’m just trying to figure out where to go with this build or whether I should move on to a different car.

When you say trans upgrades are you referring to like the flex plate and other parts or a trans swap? Because I actually was thinking about that

LMAO, over the nine years of ownership and constant upgrades well maybe! I would say don't tell my wife but she knows and so it has cost me double!!!

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If you get the Fast Intentions TT kit and their flex plate you should be fine at 500 whp or less. It is the supporting mods that add to your motors life....well besides a well done safe tune! Reach out Sébastien at Specialty Z and he will give you the straight skinny on boosting your auto Z.

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Mod the nut behind the wheel first and enjoy the relative reliability of the car n/a. Start doing hpde events or drag racing if that’s your thing, and that’s a much better use of your $$.

You don’t sound very knowledgeable about cars (not meant as an insult, we all started out like you at some point), ignorance + fi on a non factory fi’d car is begging for a disaster imo.

If you’re dead set on forced induction, you’ve got about 6-12 months of intensive study ahead of you, start reading up, both here as well as about turbos, superchargers, engine and transmissions, differentials etc.

And for the love of god, if you have any ounce of sense in your young brain, don’t go into some debt spiral for a gtr or any other car for that matter.

Which segways nicely into another fi issue, always pay cash for your mods and keep an extra 10k in a savings account for when your motor goes boom. I say when bc ol Murphy has a nasty habit of rearing his ugly head at the worst possible time.

13K sounds about right for a kit. But then there's all the other miscellaneous stuff you need. And then there is all the other stuff you should get. And finally there's all the stuff that would be nice to get since you are already tearing the car apart and have easy access to those areas. Then there is the question can I do it myself and not have the Z for a month or more, or do I spend more and have it professionally done in a few weeks.

I don't know what your budget is but seeing that the AT already puts an upper limit on power/torque an SC kit would probably make more sense. Things that you really should get on top of what ever FI you go with are a oil catch can, gauges (oil pressure, boost, AFR). Also don't forget about all the fluids and extra wires, hoses, cables, connectors you'll need will add up. Also probably best to do engine and trans mounts. And then probably a proper diff and diff mount.

Also keep your front crash bar because **** happens.

That is why this is a thing for me! Custom bash bar love...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c2914ba317.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...93de6a4f53.jpg

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Any word on your car Bob?

Still in hurry up and wait mode! No updates unfortunately.

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This is great for a dedicated track car, but I would strongly urge anyone who still plans to have a car they drive on the street, insured etc., to keep the factory crash bar/safety systems intact.

Your crash bar looks very stout but that could also mean transferring more force from a frontal collision into the occupants of the vehicle. Probably much less of an issue when you’re already rocking a full cage, 5pt harness, HANS device, etc., but none of that should be in a street car or streetable track car. :driving:

:iagree:

LMAO, my car has been fully registered and insured since I bought it! I live in the great state of AZ we don't like like government rules. That said you ain't wrong LMAO!!!

The fact is most twin turbo kits result in the loss of the OEM front crash bar so either way you may have to deal with the consequences if you rear end someone or hit something because you loss control of your vehicle.

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Totally off-topic, I think I ran into you on Blvd East in Guttenberg. I was in my black Z. We had a very brief exchange. Whats up!

I’m in FL, pretty much anything goes here as well, but just cause you can do something, doesn’t mean you should. :tup:

Back in the 60’s and early 70’s, formula one wrecks were almost always guaranteed death for the drivers. The teams/engineers put their heads together and thought well, if we make the cars stronger and more rigid, then that’ll keep the driver in a safe space since the current cars were essentially crushing like a cheap tin can and killing the driver.

So they developed cromoly tube chassis race cars that were super tough. Then something unexpected happened. The cars were getting into horrible wrecks and the vehicles were taking far less damage but the drivers were still dying. Even wrecks that didn’t look too terrible we’re resulting in serious injuries.

They found out that the energy from the crashes was being transferred to the weakest part of the vehicle, the driver. The cars were too strong and stiff. They realized they needed sacrificial energy absorbing crumple zones to help diffuse the impact energy and then a strong tub around the driver to prevent crush injuries.

I personally would say if a crash bar up front needs to go to fit the IC, then on a street car, just let the IC act as the crash bar if you must or mod the factory one to still fit, better than nothing and for a street car, better than a super rigid set up like yours.

I’m only being a “safety nazi” bc the OP isn’t too experienced or knowledgeable and there could be other people reading this in that same boat who may not understand why we’re/I’m harping on this. You’ve been around the block a few times, you understand the trade offs your making for better on track safety vs on street safety. :driving: