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What is considered beating on your car?
My friend and I had a discussion on what really is the term "beating on your car" because when I drive my Z, I tend to drive more spiritually. Such as shifting at 7k when I want to do a pull and downshifting often. So what is your definition of beating on your car?
Also quick question. Is downshifting using SRM to 3rd @ 20mph bad for the car? Whenever I downshift slowing down my rpm never rev's past 3000rpm max. |
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And no downshifting is not bad for your car. |
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Beating can also be how aggressive you take corners as well. Downshifting Aslong as its being matched at higher RPMs you're not hurting the transmission or clutch that much. They are pretty dam solid. Heck even the power plant is solid. Go for it! |
Around town and depending on where I am sometimes I'll sit in 2nd @ 4-5k rpm. Mostly because I know I'll have to slow down and that's when my exhaust has a great resonance ehehe
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Is hitting your car with a golf club beating on it?
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I consider 'beating your car' as driving erratically that contributes to faster wear and tear, more maintenance, and parts breaking down prematurely. If your car is solid for many years after "spiritually" driving your car, I don't consider that as beating your car because you know how to properly drive and handle your car.
But here is the fact. Higher RPM will put more stress on your engine and transmission. While our car can take those kind of stress way better than an average car, it's not invincible. Make sure you change your fluids frequently |
if your wearing a wife beater shirt while driving it, yes that is abuse!
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<a href="http://imgur.com/99kc1sr"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/99kc1sr.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> :icon18: KENCHAN'S Wallet |
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I routinely shift at 5K RPMS or higher, even when I'm not driving "spiritedly". And I'm not afraid to downshift at 5K RPMs either. Frankly, I think she likes it that way ... 90K miles and still going strong :driving:
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Use it hard, change fluids often, and treat brakes/tires as disposable items. Should be fine as long as you're not an idiot with it (i.e. constantly holding redline, dumping the clutch, not letting it warm up, etc).
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I do the same with my bike. |
Something something saving a model something something letting the next guy ruin her.
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Dd track streetlegal racecar?
I guess it comes down if you are actually driving it or just babying it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
If you have to ask, you probably are. Or you are a young and inexperienced driver and don't know how to drive properly yet.
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Sorry, but you asked for it.
Beating on your car - UK stylee.. |
if you can smell clutch or burnt rubber - pretty good indicator of beating on it.
driving spiritedly in short bursts on your favorite road is not really beating on it as long as you don't money shift. basically, taking the car to its limit every so often is not beating on it. |
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I define "beating on a car" as causing undue wear or damage. "Undue" varies with circumstances (DD, track, weekend-canyon-carver, etc); a beating in a DD might be babying in a track car. YMMV
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Drive it like driving a prius is considered "beating a Z"
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The hail storm that hit Greer South Carolina yesterday and beat the hell out of my car while trying to drive home from work.
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I consider "beating" a car driving it hard and also ignoring the fact that it'll need more rigorous maintenance due to increased wear and tear because of your driving style. Think "beater car". Generally these are driven into the ground with as little and cheapest maintenance as possible.
I don't consider tracking/spirited driving/high revs beating if it's accompanied by proper maintenance and care. I just call that driving the car hard. I drive all my cars hard, but I am a maintenance freak and keep them in as close to tip top shape as I can. |
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and I consider beating on a car to be distinct from one's attention to car maintenance. However, maintenance can certainly make up for beating on a car. For example, I beat on my aptly named winter beater, but I keep up with maintenance (using the severe maintenance schedule), so it's been problem free for all 120k of its life. I drive my Zcar hard at times, but in moderation, and keep up with maintenance there as well. I don't consider that beating on it, considering the nature and purpose of a sportscar. This approach worked with my sports sedan too. |
Beating on it is when you find a porn channel and you beat on it....oh you were talking about our Z's....sorry...:rofl2:
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redlining it in 1st gear before it is warmed up and it's 50 degrees outside, then powersliding out of the neighborhood because the tires are cold and not grippy, then redlining 2nd gear and 3rd gear right afterwards...repeating this every morning
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...and then hammer the cold brakes at the next stop sign...
This sounds like every M, quattro or AMG driver... :) |
The A7 trans. Up-shift's@7500rpm's/ So as long as your oil temp. is up to normal & you properly have it changed w/quality product's...You're fine.
Pending traction;mine see's 75-7600 on a regular basis through 4th gear (w/3.357 diff) I cannot comment on 5th gear;as that may get me in trouble. As for down shifting,,,dropping to a gear that put's you in a 5-5500rpm range is completely normal for power acceleration. Be sure & use quality fluid's in eng/trans/diff & you'll be ok......and keep an eye on eng.oil temp;as this may climb rapidly if you're constantly in the throttle. |
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Why do people seem to think 7k rpm is somehow bad? The factory set the rev limiter at 7500rpm. If that caused the car to explode, they would have set it lower. They're not going to warranty something that self-destructs.
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But I can't redline anything past 3rd to stay street legal ;) |
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Heck, my DD does too, ha |
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because it says in the driver's manual they don't recommend "warm-up" the engine, even the 370z manual say that too. They recommend drive off with a slow speed. quote from the video description: "Cars with electronic fuel injection do not need to be warmed up before lightly driving off. This is because fuel injected engines can compensate for temperature changes. Cold engines run rich to compensate for poor fuel atomization. This means extra fuel is injected into the combustion chamber. Now fuel is a solvent, so when extra fuel gets on the cylinder walls, it washes away the oil from the cylinders and pistons. Less oil on the cylinder walls means less protection, and because the oil is cold it makes it harder for it to be replaced. This means the longer you spend with your engine cold, the more wear you’ll have. Idling the engine doesn’t put much heat into it, so the car remains cold for a long duration. If it’s cold outside, you can wait 15-30 seconds to ensure that oil is flowing, but you don’t need to wait for the engine to be warm. It will heat up faster by driving the car lightly. By heating it up faster, the oil gets to operating temperature more quickly, and this is what you want to prevent wear. If it’s really cold outside, the time it takes to scrape off the windows so you can see will be plenty of time for oil to start circulating, so you can get in and go once you can see out the windshield. " :icon17::icon17: |
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I was like you mean it smells like glory. I try not rev over 3k until the thermostat dot moves. I try not to do 5k until oil temp moves. Then it's no holds every chance I can take to make sports car vroom. Pewpew!! |
I'm sitting at 60k miles and mostly shift around 5-6k. She loves being driven that way imo. I don't beat on first gear as much.
So what's considered beating on your car? probably taking a bat to it which I hope nobody ever does!! |
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