Whats your method when you downshift
 

Hey everyone just wanted to see your input on what method or habit you developed when you downshift to a desired gear. I have developed and maintained a habit since i been told from a reference that it is better to downshift in a sequential order to preserve the longevity of the transmission. But i do come across videos on youtube of people driving their Z or any vehicle and they would shift to a desire gear directly in non a sequential order. So what i would like to find out is, do you have a habit when you downshift? and if anyone wants/or cares to elaborate, is there a right way to downshift to a desire gear?

Thank you and i tried to search and no answer i was looking for.

I don't have a set rule for when to downshift, depends on tbe situation. If in 6th and coming to a stop downshifting from 6th to 1st in my opinion is a pita. If you get a chubby from hearing your RPMs going up as you downshift to a stop, go for it.

If coming to a light, I'll either coast or brake, than shift to in my opinion, the appropriate gear to accelerate based on speed...

Coming to a stop, there is honestly no need to downshift. If I'm cruising and I see an inevitable stop, I'm putting it straight to neutral. If the traffic slows down without stopping, I do downshift in a sequential order while rev matching with heel-toe. I don't see why anyone would skip gears when downshifting.

Rules? There are no rules other than making sure that SRM is heard. Our tranny can handle anything and can take a beating.

http://i.imgur.com/AMSuPT4.gif

sequenial downshifting is good for gradual engine braking but not necessary

I rarely downshift. I usually put it in neutral. only when my speed gets too low for the gear and then if I want to speed up and I know that gear is too high i'll downshift to the proper gear and then run the gears up normally.

Going in sequential order is just placing unnecessary wear and tear on those synchros, sliders and gears, if you don't plan on staying in those gears anyways. If you are just downshifting to come to a stop (on the street), don't do that, drivetrain parts are expensive, brakes are cheap.

Ideally you would quickly blip the throttle to bring the RPMs up where they should be in that gear, while the clutch is in, and put it directly in the gear you want to be in. Get good enough at matching RPMs you can shift smoothly without the clutch entirely. I don't recommend this, but knowing this might get you home one day in a clutchless car (FYI).

Clutch in > slow down to your desired speed with brake pedal > put in appropriate gear > clutch pedal out. Really basic stuff that you should've been tought in driving school. You can go from 6th to 2nd it doesn't matter or 6th to neutral if going to full stop.

A codicil to the op's question:
When you're sitting at a red light, and you know it will be a slow one, do you leave it in gear with the clutch in, or in neutral? Also, assuming no roll, brakes on, or not?
Curiosity, as 45 years of habits aren't going to change.

Kirk B.

My Habit is one of two options:
1. With S-mode on Depress clutch and downshift then release clutch.
2. With S-mode off turn S-mode on and follow 1.

As long as the revs are close it makes no difference what gear you select.

I go from 5th to 1st and then let the clutch fly. SRM off. Stops me every time.

I've had a lot of instructors tell me this is bad advice, as you are in neutral if something unexpected occurs. You have to put the car back in gear to get out of the way. They recommended engine braking in gear instead.

Put it in neutral. It's bad for the throw out bearing to hold it in through a red light. These cars have enough clutch issues without the user making them worse.

why 1st? go reverse! works just like reverse thrusterz on a jetliner

Out of gear. No need to hold pressure on the throwout bearing if you're going to be there for a bit.

And I tend to let off the brakes too if the car isn't going to roll...

The problem with this is the people around you have been trained since birth on an automatic transmission and assume no brake lights means they need to accelerate. So the view out of the mirror can get a bit tense on occasion. :)

:rofl2:

I heard that a lot too, back in the road-going dinosaur era of my youth. :)

But today's turbo-slinging less-displacement-than-a-soda-bottle engines actually have warnings against compression braking. I think this is because there's no real compression in the engine when it's not under boost, so people wind up reving the nuts off of 'em for no real reason.

My Abarth is like this; if you down shift to slow down - nothing happens other than the tach hitting 6k.

No need to downshift sequentially as long as you rev match appropriately. I skip gears all the time, both up and down. As pointed out already in this thread, downshifting through gears that you don't intend to stay in is just putting more wear on your transmission. I do it on occasion simply because I love those amazing VQ notes, but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it on a daily driver.

The order you shift the gears in is not important, it's all about synchronizing gear speed and keeping engine RPM in the optimum range. Skip a gear or three if you want - just make sure you're not stressing the synchros too much or lugging/over-reving the engine.

As for engine-braking, I'm with most of the others: brake pads are a lot cheaper than rebuilt engines. But many people enjoy it and it's not doing that much damage if kept within reason.

At a long stop (eg, stop light), I'll put the xmission in neutral and let off the clutch to reduce wear & tear in the throwout bearing. As with engine-braking, probably doesn't make all that much difference.

Unless I was braking hard to make the stop, I keep my foot on the brake. As someone mentioned above, no brake lights can freak out other drivers.

IE, as far as the engine and xmission are concerned, shift the way you want to. Some methods are easier on the drivetrain but, unless you are being careless, you're not going to do that much damage. You have to decide if the extra fun is worth the extra maintenance/repairs.

YMMV

Actually, that's not true at all. You induce less stress on the transmission components- especially the synchros, by shifting down sequentially. It's much harder on the synchros to go from, say, 4th to 2nd, as opposed to going 4th-3rd-2nd. What that does is allows the transmission speed to stay in line with the vehicle speed. I know I'm not explaining this 100%, but suffice to say, what you're suggesting is that normal shifting of gears will result in transmission failure. That's not true. The car prefers it.

Those that are saying to just clutch in and put it in neutral when coming to a stop, are correct. There is nothing wrong with that, whatsoever.

Personally, I always sequentially go down through my gears, even if I have the clutch in and I'm coming to a complete stop. It isn't necessary at all, but it's a fun little habit for me.

I come from the Honda world, where the 6MTs and some 5MTs are notorious for the 3rd gear synchro to die prematurely. One way to help reduce this from happening is rowing down through all the gears. I've yet to meet anyone who has had transmission issues if they rely on that methodology. Of course, the GM synchromesh friction modified transmission fluid also helps a ton. Those two combined result in transmissions that last a very very long time.

My TL has a 6MT as well, and it had a bit of the 3rd gear grind occurring when I bought the car (used). It still occasionally continued even after changing from Honda transmission fluid, to GMSMFM. Since I've gotten into the habit of sequentially going through gears a few years ago, I seem to never grind anymore.

This. Times 100. It's just easier to synchronize gear speed with engine speed, if done sequentially.

At the end of the day, I don't think it's as big of a worry with the Z. I haven't come across many transmission issues with this car, related to the actual transmission itself. I think it's pretty stout and even if you shift "badly", you'll likely still get 200,000 miles out of it.

Ye, our tranny is awesome :D

Not really if you are in the proper rpm range. That may be more clutch engagement issue than anything else and we all know that shifts can be jacked up between 2nd and 3rd on a stock z.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

The syncrho is just there to slow things down to to help the slider engage the gears. It has friction material on it for a reason. I see no reason to wear the friction material on other gears unnecessarily, not to mention those gears sliders unnecessarily. Especially as the syncros are cheap, the sliders are the expensive parts generally in every transmission I've rebuilt.

What I'm referring to a slider, is the sleeve here (this isn't from a 370z transmission, just images I had handy, It's from a Jeep transmission):

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/slider1.jpg

It would be what the shift fork actually is moving to engage the gears:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/slider2.jpg

So while you maybe trying to keep things spinning the same speed and help things line up, I'm still of the opinion you're placing unnecessary wear on components that didn't need to be enaged in my opinion.

To each their own though. It's likely it may not matter one way or the other, and the transmission will live "long enough" either way I guess.

Wow, didn't know I was going to receive a lot of input on this topic and everyone's response is much appreciated :driving:

I see people mentioning SRM... That's what my right foot is for.

Just to add if I may, the 2016 owner's manual indicates that the transmission must be in neutral with your foot completely off the clutch pedal whenever the car is stopped. This apparently helps with reducing the heat and pressure directed to the infamous CSC adding a bit more life. This might also be a question that the dealers will start asking so as to deny more warranty claims......something to think about.

Lmao I'll make sure to fastened my seat belt 😂

I row down through the gears and heel toe it. I like the way it sounds, and as long as you rev match good it's not much wear.

yes if u have da crappy z..

Speak for yourself. I bought the base model because I didn't want to pay for all the of extra useless crap on the Sport, such as the SRM and a few other things.

I always though it was odd that everyone complains about the new Z most likely getting more driver aids, and then turns around and talks about how great SRM is.

You shouldn't keep your foot on the clutch if you're sitting at a light. You'll burn out your throw out bearing eventually if you do that. True story.

Use heal/toe technique.

Got the nismo tech and keep the SRM turned off. Slowing for a light, I usually push the stick towards 1st and wait for it to fall in the gate. SRM makes the engine rev like you don't know how to shift.
Driver aids are for those who don't know how.

Kirk B.

Never thought of it, but you're right! Bet I can get my 60-0 distance way down!:tup:

:icon14: Lighter stronger wheels, bigger brakes, and an attempt at a decent differential are not things I would consider useless :twocents:

But if you've already gone and replaced all those with even better parts then more power to you :driving:

If that's your goal, just plow into a wall :icon17:

I like to row through the gears. Almost money shifted on the highway going from 6 to 4 but tapped it far left. Good thing I just left it in neutral and slammed it back into 5th once the RPMs dropped.

Lesson learned I'll shift sequentially and not try to be cool. I'll sit in a lower gear if I know I'll be wanting to get a bit heavy footed. Gas mileage can blow me.

In traffic on my way home I used to always be shift neutral to first. Learned how to get it into first and just keep it in gear and pop the clutch if I need to come to a stop and slip it a bit if it's literally crawling.

At lights I'll sit in neutral as the light is changing I'll shift it into first and hold the clutch til I get my green... unless they get the advance and I cry a little.