Battery recommendations - Bang/Buck/Weight
 

I think I've mortally wounded my stock battery over the holidays by draining it to near empty... After getting everything back up and running I went on a trip for 6 days and had to jumpstart the car when I got back. A new battery is likely in the near future for me.

I see some guys are running smaller power-sports types of batteries that are cheap. How is that going? Anything there that will hold a charge and still crank after a couple of weeks?

There are also some smaller lithium ion based batteries that can be had for not a lot more than a OEM autoparts store replacement... Any benefits to the Li-ion tech for a car battery? Perhaps comparable power at a lighter weight?

Any bang/buck sweetspot battery that many folks are using?

I figure I will end up just getting a OE-replacement...but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing an easy chance to shed some weight.

I have a Walmart Maxx battery. The ones up here are made in Philly. Sealed, so no leaks, and the previous one lasted 5 years.

Given the issues lithium ion batteries have with heat, I wouldn't put one in my car.
I would go with the yellow top AGM battery.
Lighter, stronger, can handle a deep discharge, and sealed. What's not to love?
(Except the price, right?)

Kirk B.

Bump.... didn't drive my car since Friday evening and couldn't crank this morning... Any new suggestions? If not, looks like I'll be pulling it today or tomorrow and replacing it with an OE-replacement like the Maxx that Dirk suggested.

Nope. Looks like it's time to throw money at the problem.
While you're at the battery store, get an automatic charger to keep it topped off when you aren't using it.
Good luck!

Kirk B.

Have you tried using AAA batteries?

In all seriousness, check your current battery life at either Pep Boys or Autozone. They'll check it free of charge. I bought something similar to OEM battery which cost me around $110. I doubt you can buy a factory similar battery for under $100.

I've always used Optima batteries in my racers as they can tolerate rough-service like the g's and vibration of track use, and don't leak...

Braille Light Weight Battery B129 (Recommended Race only): 9lbs (4.1kg) | Reduction: 26lbs (11.79kg)
Braille Light Weight Battery B14115 (Recommended Race only): 11.5lbs (5kg) | Reduction: 23.5lbs (10.66kg)
Braille Light Weight Battery B14115: 15lbs (6.8kg) | Reduction: 20lbs (9.07kg)
Odyssey Light Weight Battery PC680: 14lbs (6.35kg) | Reduction: 21lbs (9.53kg)

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...on-thread.html

AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 151R, 340 CCA 151R: Search no more for the best at Advance Auto Parts
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2980763

Any problems with that Autocraft battery since you got it? Can you let it sit for days or weeks without losing charge? Looks like a great option.

I have been using it since 2014 with no issues. My car typically gets driven when it's 35+ degrees so it seems to handle cold cranking just fine on the nippy mornings. It's probably the best compromise for what you are looking for.

The only thing you need to do will be to modify the OEM brace like I did. Drill the pinch weld on the "L" clip that secures the battery, resize to the width and then re-weld.

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/e...t-battery2.jpg

One more thought... I run an after market deck but no other major draws on the battery. You might not want to run a smaller battery if you have a large audio system or some other major draw.

That is a really good point. Right now I am just running a deck, but also just purchased an amp/sub. Didn't think about that part.... I'll probably go OE replacement then. Bummer.

You're not going to find a "perfect" battery (price, durability, CCA, weight, etc all in one). It sounds to me like you've come up with the best option for your circumstances - a more-or-less OEM-spec unit. Living in a warm area, you can probably get away with a few less CCA (which should mean a little less weight) than the manual calls for.

I'm guessing that a near-perfect and reasonably priced car battery will come along in the next 5-7 years as a result of power generation/storage technology. Maybe sooner if they can get the cost of some of the "exotics" down.

PC680 best bang for the buck if the weight will be significant to you.

May not be entirely practical, but it's certainly the more interesting option....

go to Walmart, always in stock, get OEM replacement size so U dont have to screw with drilling, welding, adapters ad nauseum...

Very interesting. Doesn't seem to hold up for very long so probably not an good option for a DD (especially a modern car that keeps the ECM powered up). Might be a great solution for a track car.

I run a yellow top Optima in my 240Z. It is bulletproof.

All interesting comments about the battery on this thread, since mine is now at advance auto to get re-charged, any one using an auto-tender?

My Z is my DD, so the alternator gets the honors.

Kirk B.

I use a Battery Tender for winter storage and a few times in the summer.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Battery tender for years on motorcycle, and on cars as needed. Only when we get real snow do the cars sit for > 2 weeks without being driven and I toss them on the tender.

This winter the 2010 OEM battery was starting to show its age after a few days of sitting not turning the car over quite as well, so I replaced with an Interstate, which was not that hard to get just an order from local Midas and it was here a few days later. Sure not walmart but IMHO a better battery.

- b

Yellow top over Redtop?
 

Why? Optimum shows the Redtop as the 1st choice for today's automobiles. Yellow top for cars with heavy electrical loads. Although, there is only a minor price difference.