Jacking entire side of vehicle

[Darwins Child]

In order to see just exactly what a rear OEM sport wheel is going to look like on the front, ideally, if possible, I'd like to raise (tilt up) the entire side of the vehicle just enough to get both wheels off the ground, do the swap and lower to see the result on the front.

Will the OEM emergency scissor jack, installed in order to raise say the passenger-side front wheel, also raise the passenger-side rear wheel off the ground a bit if the jack is raised quite high?

If it can't, I'll have to go through a much more lengthy process that will begin at the rear passenger side rather than the front (which is why I'd like to know the answer to that question before lifting anything.)

Thanks.

[Dirk McGurck]

Don't use the emergency jack. Get a floor jack, and jacking up the front pinch-weld will raise the whole side of the car.

[YzGyz]

Those scissor jack are for icoe (in case of emergency) only. Would not try to get the car up that high on a wonky scissor jack. They can tip over very easy (never happened I met but just look at the small footprint).

Be blessed smart and buy a floor jack or better yet, buy a jack set that includes tire chocks and jack stands. The hydraulic jack is 100x easier and faster to use than those stupid screw type scissor jack.

YzGyz

[gomer_110]

Originally Posted by YzGyz

Those scissor jack are for icoe (in case of emergency) only. Would not try to get the car up that high on a wonky scissor jack. They can tip over very easy (never happened I met but just look at the small footprint).

Be blessed smart and buy a floor jack or better yet, buy a jack set that includes tire chocks and jack stands. The hydraulic jack is 100x easier and faster to use than those stupid screw type scissor jack.

YzGyz

OP, be careful, use the right equipment, and don't be this guy

[jchammond]

wheel lip will be 1.18" (30mm) further out than the stock 9" front.....that's if yo have no spacers.

[Darwins Child]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I was naive enough to think that it might be easier and quicker and slicker to use the emergency jack, but I will take the advice of those who have more experience.

I have two floor jacks, one of which is low profile, and two sets of jack stands.

Additionally, using the top of the emergency jack as a guide, last spring I machined (using hand tools) two 2"x2"x3" blocks of aluminum whose bottom slots sit over/onto the tops of the jack stands that I used when I changed the oil shortly after we bought our vehicle. The combination worked very well. (BTW, that circle on top of the block is the top of a glued-in stack of rare earth magnets that hold the block up against the vehicle until the vehicle is lowered onto the stand.)

As Dirk suggests, I'll try using the low-profile jack and one of the blocks to raise the entire side of the vehicle. If the block+jack is too high to get onto the jacking point, as I did when I changed the oil, I will drive the front wheels/tires onto two pieces of 2x12 to get vehicle off the floor by another 1-1/2". Etc., until I can use the combo to raise the entire side of the vehicle. Hopefully I won't have to lift the front very high before the rear comes up a bit so that I can quickly do the swap.

If that method does not work, as I would have had to do with the emergency jack, I'll use the floor jack to raise the rear, remove the wheel, install the spare wheel/tire, lower the vehicle, raise the front, etc.

Originally Posted by jchammond

wheel lip will be 1.18" (30mm) further out than the stock 9" front.....that's if yo have no spacers.

AFAI can measure and estimate by eyeball and hope, the OEM sport rear on the front is going to look OK and not protrude appreciably (otherwise I would not go through this procedure), but before shelling out for two rears, I've got to confirm that this is in reality the case. And there is no other way that I can think of to do that other than by installing a rear on the front and taking a look (and a few photos so I don't have to rely on my aged memory after I've returned everything to original configuration).

Thanks again.

[YzGyz]

Wait. Wth after you trying to do and test? There might be an easier answer if we knew what problem(s) you are facing. Something with the wheels but what about them?

YzGyz

[Darwins Child]

Originally Posted by YzGyz

Wait. Wth after you trying to do and test? There might be an easier answer if we knew what problem(s) you are facing. Something with the wheels but what about them?

YzGyz

The short answer is that I'm considering buying two rims that are identical to our vehicle's rear wheels and installing them on the front for a "square" wheel arrangement. I want to see what a rear on the front looks like before I buy anything.

If you want the longer version, or you need an sure-fire sleep aid, read the following:
The "Will it fit?" thread

If you're not asleep by the time you get to the end of that post, read further in that thread and you'll be Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz rather than YzGyz.

[jchammond]

Ok, let's see results.....................

[Darwins Child]

Originally Posted by jchammond

Ok, let's see results.....................

To be on topic, I'll split the results.

First, how to lift both side wheels at once is shown in the photos below. (Because the camera darkens the image in order to not wash out the pearl white of the vehicle, I had to enhance the area near the floor so that the space between the rear wheel and the floor could be more easily seen.)

As you can see, the front does not have to be lifted very high before the rear begins to rise above the floor.

If you want to see photos of the tires, click the following link:
The "Will it fit?" thread

[Jsolo]

^^Yes, that looks very safe!@# Not sure how suitable it is to use one jack point to lift the whole side of the car up. Lots of stress on the subframe this way.

Right way would be to jack up the front under the K member, place jackstands in appropriate locations, then do the same for the rear. Now swap wheels on/off to your heart's content.