I need to replace my Engine!! Help Needed.
 

Hi guys, as the tittle suggests I need to replace my engine. I've had my car (09 370Z - Monterrey Blue - Manual) for 4 years in August. Since the beginning I had multiple issues. I bought it used, Nissan Pre-Owned Certified. It had 55k, and it currently stands at 88k. Here are the things that have happened in an estimated mileage.

1.) 57k - Slave Cylinder needs to be replaced.
2.) 59k - Steering Lock strikes
3.) 73k - Clutch needs to be replace and Transmission as well
4.) 88k - Engine Needs replacement

I make sure all the liquids are good. I use Mobil 5w-30 for my engine.

Honestly, I am at a lost for words. Any Advice?

Trade that **** in?
Or for Trade in purposes, buy any used engine to replace it, then trade it in.

Why does it need replacement? It's only at 88k? I also don't get the tranny issue at 73K. Steering lock, clutch, & CSC I get but not the other two. You're in a tough spot. With the amount of spend, you will need to keep the car until it keels over the 2nd time.

why does engine need replacement ?

Replacement has bad rings, replacement spun a bearing, replacement put a rod through the block... help us out here. Unless it's something catastrophic I'd be looking at a rebuild vs a replacement. Great opportunity to make it into a monster.

Wait a minute. Nissan Certified Pre-owned should have a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. I would check into that.

This Limited Warranty covers any repairs needed due to MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN[*] (at no charge to you for parts, labor, or tax on the parts or labor) for the powertrain components listed in the following categories:

Extensive Protection: The Nissan Certified Pre-Owned Vehicle Limited Warranty covers 600+ components, including: engine, transmission and drive train.

Coverage: 7 years from the original in-service date of the vehicle or 100,000 total miles on the odometer, whichever occurs first.[*]

Authorized Nissan Repair Facilities: Find repair service nationwide through any authorized Nissan dealership. Contact your local Nissan dealer or call 1-800-NISSAN-3 for details.

Deductible: $50 per visit.

Genuine Nissan Parts: Coverage ensures that any necessary replacement parts will be made using Genuine Nissan new or remanufactured parts, or Nissan-approved parts.

Please read the limited warranty booklet for complete conditions and exclusions.
http://cpo.nissanusa.com/download/?n...r_brochure.pdf

:ugh2:

Replacement low mileage engine is about 2g, plug and play. Sell the bad one for parts.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

a SR20 would pull a premium before race wars. If you have to, you can overnight parts from Japan.

Some of us right away questioned the reasons for tranny and engine replacements. My first thought was whether these problems stemmed from bad luck or owner's doing.

In some of your earliest post, you've mentioned that Z was your first car (or first sports car), you learned driving manual in it, that you adopted the "just think nothing but to drive and shift fast" driving style...among other lessons.

Not trying to embarrass you. To give any advice, it's important to know the root cause. If it was a lemon car, we would say get rid of it. Knowing your history, I would say if your driving and understanding of your car has improved, and still love your Z, find a reputable shop to fix it and enjoy it for many years to come.

Hahaha ohh my younger version, so much hope for this car. I will take responsibility for the Clutch, but not the tranny. I've learned quite a lot of (i think) over this experiences. When i was talking to the Nissan Mechanic, he said it was something inside the tranny that just gave out. He claimed, "I've seen a few situations like this".

The engine, like WTF could I have done? Do I go fast? YES, I DO. Who can admit they don't. Have I adopted a bad technique to drive? Maybe in my early years, but i driven with countless people driven the car to Yellowstone and Vegas, my driving is fine. I'll admit in the early stages it was different, but I'll sit down with anyone here and prove my self :driving: lol.

Nissan has escalated my problem and a regional specialist will contact me tomorrow. It has not come up in our conversation, but my car turned 7 years old in April, when it was first purchased. I guess we'll see.

Regardless, if they choose not to help me I will have to receive some legal advice. I am not paying 11k for an engine, when the car has already cost me more than 35k.

They told me there is some internal components in the engine that need to be rebuild, but that because it is too heavy in labor no one really rebuilds engines and I should replace it.

********. Car enthusiasts and machine shops build engines all the damn time. Dealers don't. Dealerships know f@*k-all about cars except how to screw people out of their money.:shakes head:

My Jeep has a +0.030 bore, 0.020 oversized main and rod bearings, 9.5:1 forged pistons, comp cam, fully machined head with oversized valves and polished runners, etc etc...

I say you should drive your secondary vehicle in the meantime (hopefully you have one), do some reading, save up a few bucks, then buy a block and build the motor you REALLY want, not some junkyard hand-me-down with who-knows-what wrong with it.

what parts needed "rebuild" and what were the symptoms? Weird noise? Won't start? Lost power? Do you often park you car on steep incline?

I'm thinking you driving must not be as good as you think it is. A bad engine or a bad trans before the avg user sees issues ok I'll get that, but both? Odds aren't very good for you.

If you don't get it through warranty (and if you were charged for your trans you should dig up your paperwork and warranty and go make a claim because that's bull, you had 7years 100k mi. But if they don't warranty the engine then find a good shop, only issue is today's engines don't use iron sleeved cylinders so if the cylinders are shot then that's going to be a bit difficult.

Inexperienced manual driver....money shift?

How bad can he be? This is my first manual car and I learned pretty fast, the car still runs well.
Although I feel like sometimes the shifts are a little rough or clunky, but that's reported by a lot of 370Z drivers...

You have no idea

Well not sure how he managed a manual trans so low miles but he still hasn't said what happened to the engine so I'm betting he did a money shift.

Lol ok now I am about 100% sure money shift happened. Let me guess this part needing rebuilt wouldn't happen to be a bunch of valves would it?

^ ouch ouch lol

They didn't tell me what is wrong with the engine, they said components and that it needed to be reassemble but engines are not rebuilt (according to them). It it not the valves, i can 100% guarantee that. I dont know that the money shift is.

Having said that, I am not going to start arguing about my qualification for driving the car. I started driving stick shift when I was 9 in a blue nissan datsun. I came to the US at the age of 10, didn't drive stick again until i was 19 and that was only for a week. I thought I mastered it so i stopped. I've been driving my Z now for 4 years. Stop acting like an elitist, as if driving stick took some type of special skill. There is a learning curve but overtime it's easy. It becomes second nature.


PS: I never paid out of pocket for the transmission. somebody asked about that i think

OP, we know you are not a car enthusiast, and must be hard to try to speak mechanic's language. However, you asked for advice and there is none to be given without any further detail. Please find out what's wrong with the engine. There are many "internal components" in an engine. There should be some paperwork given to you by now, stating the details.

"Money shift" refers to shifting into a wrong gear causing rpm spiking past acceptable range. Google is your friend :)

Ps: if your post history was given to the dealership, you wouldn't have gotten the tranny for free.

we got no engines harry

Did they mention any of the following words?

a) bearings
b) piston rings
c) connecting rods
d) crank journal
e) pistons
f) oil pump
g) wrist pin
h) camshaft
i) timing chain

We really need more info.

:icon14: :icon08: You are absolutely delusional if you think you mastered driving a manual in one week.

Before you spout off about how good your driving skills after you killed a clutch, transmission, and engine in less than 90K miles, go find a real driving instructor (like at an HPDE) and see what they think about your skills :twocents:

Since he doesn't know what the "money shift" is, I wonder if he thinks the rev limiter will protect against it.

I say the OP needs a "driver mod"

He drove to Vegas and Yellowstone without problems... well, that's fine... that's all highway driving, with little clutch/shifting action.

OP still can't give us any valid reason as to what happened to this transmission or his engine. The dealership should have given a very clear print out as to what is wrong and what needs fixing.

11k for an engine? Yeah, if you buy a new one from the dealership. There are plenty of junk yards around where you can source another engine, for, like said, around 2k. I'd say swap it yourself, but I'm concerned about the knowledge level regarding cars, as thus far, it seems to be rather low. Not hating, just stating the obvious.

I get the feeling the dealer is just robbing the OP. I also get the feeling there is MUCH more to this story than the OP is willing to fess up to. But maybe I'm just crazy.

You are not crazy.

Was a dealer tech for a long time and heard just about every just driving along story. Great one before I left was brand new 2016 z06 with less than 3k mi that just "stalled out on him on the freeway". Hmm car will only move forward and backward about a foot With car in gear (pushing now engine running). Bore scope and bunch of bend valves, conn rod thrown through the cylinder wall. Was like yup that's not warranty. Best part is we had just been bought out and new management wanted to please all customers and said GM will cover it. Heavy duty guy replaces the engine, GM denies warranty stating obviously mis shift and over revved the engine, done. Then management goes back to heavy duty guy asking what they should do, he's like well you should have waited for approval like I said but no you pushed it through so I guess we just bought an engine.

There is no more to the story. The last oil change I had done was at the dealership at 80k miles, I was suppose to have it change again at 83 but I didn't. I continue checking the oil level however. At 84k I went to yellow stone and now I am at 88k. The oil level never went below the the mid section between low and high.

Now the oil was really dirty, I will admit that. I was going to have change in the next few days before this happen. But I had just bought like 2 weeks ago to Pilot Super Sport tires.

They called and said it was the Crank Bearings. Are they really as cheap as the internet suggests?

In regards to the transmission, honestly I don't know why I never got a any type of paperwork. I never even got the statement of the work they completed. I was just happy they were covering it.

Also, I never put anything else in my car other than Mobil 5w-30.

:shakes head:

8k is way too far between oil changes. Although even then the amount of wear would depend on many different factors. When they say crank bearings they probably mean both rod and mains.... I assume your engine is knocking then. This can definitely be fixed without a full replacement. Are there bronze metallic flakes in your oil?

8k is really not that bad on today's engines and oils. Most Oem now spec about 7500 with regular crap oil, run a full top grade synthetic and good filter and you should be fine, I forgot to take an oil sample for analysis my last change but next one I will just to confirm.

8K on this car/engine is way too far especially on Mobil 1 5w30. 5K is the max I would even consider running. Another engine lost due to poor maintenance.

The 8k OCI may or may not be ok, really depend on how OP treats his car and in what environment.

This is true. All about what's used and how it's treated. Racing everyday, not going to make 8k. Regular driving with some spirited driving and using high grade class 4/5 synthetics and good filters (amsoil are best I've found for filtration) and you'll be fine. Even Nissan list 7500 as normal driving condition and 3750 for secure on regular oil and that is just playing it safe, look at all the German running 10-15k on full synthetic and their engines run hotter, and burn dirtier than ours.

Depends on what oil and type of driving. 8K is max. My Nissan dealer puts a "reminder sticker" to change at 5k. So I don't think 3 more K is an engine killer.

Bearing death is usually due to sustained hi-rpm or oil starvation but oil consumption needs to be excessive and/or lateral G need to be significant for that to happen.

OP talks about "checking my oil" so I'm thinking that 8k miles he has burned enough oil for starvation to occur - probably as a consequence of a steep grade.

In any event, I'm calling this as a consequence of a lack of mechanical sympathy

Adding that to my vocabulary.:tiphat: