What is the best mod for the Money
 

I was looking at chips and programers. I do not need massive power, just want more speed. Could some one point me in the best direction.

Both of those will violate your warranty, which could affect the money issue.

I'd go with the Stillen G3 Cold Air Intakes; I got those and an FI cat-back (not cheap, but awesome) and it made a huge difference.

Best bang for the buck in this order:
~HFC
~Stillen G3 intakes
~Exhaust (Stillen, F.I., Berk (if they ever produce it))

Beyond that you are dropping money into little gains, like nonstoptuning pulley setup, stillen headers. Though F.I. is about to produce long tube headers, but not sure on power gains or price yet so it might be something to wait for.

a dyno tune maybe??

so far Test-Pipes/HFC's are the best bang for the buck mod.

definitely a full turbo system.

You want to go faster?? Get to a driving school, a structured HPDE.

I vote HFC's

I'd go with the flux capacitor and some nuclear engine powerplant to power everything.

or some Gen3 intakes or HFCs are the best bang for your buck other than an ECU tune.

love the suggestions. i'll be getting the g3 intakes (if they'll fit the nismo w/o too much of an issue), berk hfcs, and doing some driving schools in the area. i'm hoping to go twice on the same track, once while raining. the schools are actually a good deal. ~$295 for two days on a track and some class time as well. instructors can drive you or they ride along and give you tips on your car and the track. maybe a cobb down the line.

Vipor, :iagree:
You've probably made the best reply among all. Getting advance driving lessons is probably the best way of getting more "real" HP to the wheels/ground than any mods out there! Best bang for the bucks also (+ more secure skills on the road!).

Illuminated kick plates??

But seriously, this topic has been discussed about 100 times. But, clearly, for the money (if you are looking for adding power) are test pipes (if you don't care about throwing CEL).
It also depends where you live, how you drive. I mean, if you live somewhere up north with some nice euro-style mountain roads, then suspension is the way to go.

Tune - hands down - then sways and brakes , then intake , HFC's job done.

Tune on a stock car hands down? Teh Joke? Maybe wait till you have some parts on the car to get the tune....this isnt a turbo engine, getting a tune first would be pointless.

Id say a catback... you get power AND sound. If you can swing longtube intakes and a catback, thats my suggestion.

Sorry dude I disagree respectfully.

Personally I feel any car can benefit from a tune, turbo or not, stock tunes are fine but any stock tune can be improved on, whats the point of throwing mods at avehicle with out first having the device to extract the most from those mods?
My 2 cents, extract what you can from what you got then repeat, none of the add ons are cheap etc

second note... I am biased as I will tune my self ;-) ,from the other side of the coin, I can see your logic when shelling out for tunes and parts.

You have not seen the Z respond to mods then, from what we have seen so far the Z runs rich from factory. Adding good CAI, exhaust, and HFC will lean it out and smooth the car out with adding plenty of power. A tune for the Z will smooth out the power a bit and put the car in its optimal condition, but so far it has shown bolt-ons first is the way to go.

Look at the track record on tunes. CBE is a way better deal, and RCZ is right - you get better sound to boot. And if you get the intake and exhaust first, you don't have to retune.

Cool man I will look forward to the mods and learning this new motor. I am exited to see what she can do for sure, for experimental purposes I will tune it first and def sort the , as expected rich fueling;) after a heavy few years of miodding the Wife has clamped down so next round may be a little time.

If these motors do respond well to being opened up on the intake and exhaust that well, I am even more keen to get started.

This car from factory has a very good tune, it is the intake/exhaust setup that limits it. I would even go as far as the intake is very good (a few aftermarket are just a bit better), it is the CBE & HFC that are the limitations.

I can imagine yes, I have contempleted (for cost) trying some drop ins to see if it opens it up at all, the HFC's seem pretty good value.
Be nice to see what she does totally stock, then tuned stock, drop in and with the HFC's, eventually ,as my other thread Id like to go to Ethanol but thats a way off, I just want to get to grips with the vehicle.

The Injen intakes allowed it to breath better,..
The FI exhaust helped it exhale and roar better,..
I got HFC waiting to go on,..but enjoying the above so much right now, it can wait..
A Osiris tune to be next later down the road once engine get past 1k miles for engine management and the ability to read/clear codes...

Lose weight.

Learn how to drive the car 10/10ths to the limit is the best bang for ur buck IMO. Get some HPDE and notice how much u can push this car on the track and drive more alert and safer off the track. This car is very capable of putting down respectable times stock. However as killerbee said..another thing would be losing weight. This might not bang for ur buck (think dry carbon and titanium/magnesium) but it will make u faster everywhere, not just a straight line. Mechanically, I would say 4.02 FD would provide better accelaration than an I/E/TP or HFC combo...

With all the respect to your opinion, I beg to disagree

If you don't improve the car's breathing, then there's nothing the tune will enhance. Stock A/F ratio is almost perfect on a stock car. Not even sure you'll gain much from opening the throttle valves all the way. The VVEL hasn't been cracked yet, so no cam phasing change (assuming that isn't good enough already as well).

Can you elaborate on "doing the tune yourself" please?

^ VVEL's been cracked for awhile now.

I think Technosquare has cracked it but Uprev hasn't yet.

G37 SAM Can you elaborate on "doing the tune yourself" please?

Sure - getting the software, hooking up you permanant WB sensor/s going out and logging, changing your ROM image and relogging, basically road tuning instead of dyno tuning, with your self as the tuner.

I expect disagreement on my opinion, and welcome it, I still think any platform in 'factory format' can be improved with a tune, I like to stage my changes and tune at every step of the way, I can get fairly good 'base' and 'stage' data and enhance my specific learning of the vehicle.

Cheers

How is the UAE these days, great place, I am jeleous of you being there

Bingo

Since you have the capability to tune yourself, I totally agree with you. It doesnt cost you anything additional per tune so why not. Plus, since everyone is saying the car runs rich in the stock tune, leaning it out will definitely increase power. Keep us posted and let us know what you learn.

haha.

What is the best, safest peformance mod for the buck?
 

Guys,

So far I am pure stock, but I will eventually want to take the plunge. Just want to do it right . . . Any thoughts?

Intake, exhaust, super charger (this sounds risky and expensive), speed shifter (I have a manual trans) . . .

Thanks!

Jeff

HFCs probably get you best bang for your buck performance. You could get test pipes, but you'd probably fail emissions.

Upgraded Intakes will result in +10-15hp.

The SAFE route is to get K&N Drop In Filters & Post MAF Tubes = $180
or
Used Stillen G3- $350

CAI is a great start. Pretty safe. Reasonable bang for the buck. If you have much experience working on cars, it's an easy DIY (in most cases; some require body mods). If that's the only mod you make, you may not need to re-tune.

Exhaust is another good one. Can get pricey and you need a lift or good ramps to install. If you get CAI and exhaust together, will probably require a re-tune.

A supercharger is expensive to install. Since your asking, it's probably not a job you could DIY. Will definitely need a re-tune. Not really unsafe, but you will be putting a lot of extra stress on the drivetrain, so things will break more often. May also require other mods/upgrades, eg, exhaust and injectors. The cost gets high quickly, but probably your best bet for horsepower if you have deep pockets.

A short shifter will only help if you know how to use it. For most DDs the only benefit is bragging rights. If you plan on needing faster shifts, maybe you should jump straight to a supercharger and hipo exhaust.

YMMV

Either Stillen G3 intake OR HFCs... Now safest might be intake because you can't ruin anything really...
And unless you're getting quality Berks, you might not squeeze the most power out...
And you'll have to deal with the demon bolt and the risk of breaking the O2 sensors.

I'd go intake, then exhaust, then HFCs if you want it louder and want to get a bit more power out

Don't do a short shifter. With the rate of synchro failures on these transmissions i wouldn't chance giving the dealer a reason not to cover that. Plus most short shifters are so tight that the shorter throw is negated by the increased effort

Driver training.

what is a "speed shifter"?

That's not really safe tho.:icon17:

:iagree:. Intake, then exhaust and HFC.

Sound like our 7 speed auto.?