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Are you sure you are untightening the right bolts? The end that is facing the front are welded in place. The nut which is facing the back end is what you want to loosen. You will love the sound. 2 washers is what the Nismo should have sounded like from the factory. Still quiet on the inside for the highway till you get on it and nice throaty sound comes at ya. 3 washers and it gets louder and deeper and you won't hear the engine noises anymore, just exhaust. For long highway rides you're gonna hear constant exhaust note. 4 washers and it gets loud, you'll start to feel vibrations in the steering wheel and some things shaking a little bit but it sounds mean.... I did all this and thinking back now I should have kept it that way just for the adjustability. But I did a muffler delete and pretty happy with it, took a min to adjust with baffles and all but the washer mod on this car sounds pretty good. I've heard it on other cars and it just sounds like crap. Have fun.
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I thought I could be stupid enough to not see a bolt facing front, but it was not the case, there is only one bolt that fits in a tool...
Tried this morning again, and same... I'm beginning to f**k up the bolts... Oh well, I guess I'll have to find a garage that has better tools than me to help me on the job, but noone will want to do this 30 seconds job. Parisian garages are not very helpful, they'll try to sell me a full exhaust instead or charge me 100 euros! Thank you for your help anyway. Ps: unscrewing is anti-clockwise right ? Just in case :-D |
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Check out da link my Nismo with da washer mod....
http://www.the370z.com/nismo-370z/30...mod-video.html |
MrJdmNismo thank you so much for the video !
Actually I was doing the right thing, but I just didn't have the right tools for a very rusty bolt ! (Your nismo exhaust is shiny compared to my non nismo one !!!) I went to an associative garage where they lend real good tools and a car lifter (sorry for my english dunno the name) and I manage to unscrew everything and do the modification with two washers. When I put down the car and started the engine everyone in the garage came to see what was that roaring. Immediate effect ! the sound is so much what I always wanted, and was the last step to my total satisfaction with the Z ! I'm now so happy, I have a V6 that sounds like a sport car ! and with the 1500 euros I have spared on not buying a exhaust line, I'll fly and come to visit your country ;-) Anyway thanks all for this topic, made my day/month/year ! PS : posted a video here, of course doesn't do justice to the real sound, but it gives already an idea : <iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-ZTUiPH332c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
Funny. I just came across this video of a white Nismo 370z with the washer mod. People do stupid **** all the time, but intentionally causing an exhaust leak? Just wow.
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Thanks. Pick either side. Blacked out or Subaru style. But on topic, why exhaust leak is dangerous and I think it's stupid to do it just to sound better:
Can an exhaust leak affect a car's performance? "No, but it can kill the occupants of the car. There is a good reason why tailpipes terminate past the rear bumper. Exhaust fumes can be sucked into the car by the partial vacuum created by the vehicle passing through the airstream. No car is completely sealed from the outside and that is why the trunk on a car has a double sealed rubber weatherstrip." |
More info on exhaust leak from eHow
The exhaust system is an important part of your vehicle, because it expels burned engine gases from the car. The exhaust also controls emissions of your vehicle, and any damage or leaks to it can affect the performance of the car. Poisonous carbon monoxide can seep into the passenger area, which is why it is important to diagnose and repair exhaust leaks right away. Physical Damage and Leaks Perform a visual examination of the vehicle and its exhaust system for signs of physical damage or scrapes. Look for signs of black soot on the exhaust and tailpipe, which is a sign that there is carbon built up from a leak. Scraping the bottom of the car while driving over a curb or speed bump is a common way to cause damage to the exhaust. Holes and scrapes can cause the exhaust to start leaking. The oxygen sensor is in the exhaust system, and scraping the bottom of the vehicle can damage the oxygen sensor, which will cause exhaust leaks. Check your vehicle's undercarriage for signs of rust. Older vehicles are vulnerable to rusting, and rust will eat metal, causing leaks in the exhaust pipe. Welded joints are common spots for exhaust leaks. Check all joints on the exhaust and make sure there is no rust or damage. Shaking and Noise Vehicles with an exhaust leak will shake and rattle while idling at a red light. A different noise, such as a ticking or popping, is a common sign of an exhaust leak. A loud roaring noise that is different from the usual sounds your car makes is also a sign of an exhaust leak problem. Have a friend gently accelerate the engine while you have the hood up and are listening outside the vehicle. Listen for a deep, throaty sound or loud sputtering that sounds different from what you are used to hearing from the car. ***I guess you're going for that sound*** Gas Smell Smelling a gas while your car's windows are rolled up is a sign of an exhaust leak. This sign is often easier to notice in colder months when you drive with the windows up and the vents are opened for hot air. The odor may not be noticeable while you are outside the vehicle but is always present as you are driving. |
The problems associated with exhaust leaks vary by the size of the leak, its location and what type of fuel injection system your car has. Although most people think that exhaust leaks are little more than a source of irritating noise, the truth is that they can affect performance, fuel economy, emissions and present a danger to the car's occupants.
Noise The level of noise associated with an exhaust leak varies with its location. In general, the noise emitted by a leaking exhaust will get louder and sharper with proximity to the engine. A leaking muffler will probably only produce a low grumble, a leaking mid-pipe in the catalytic converter will produce a loud drone at highway speeds, and an exhaust manifold leak will emit a pronounced rap that rises with RPM. Carbon Monoxide Poisoning The single most dangerous aspect of an exhaust leak is carbon monoxide poisoning. This colorless and odorless gas is a byproduct of combustion and, when inhaled, replaces oxygen-carrying hemoglobin in the blood. The immediate effects of carbon monoxide poisoning are nausea, headache and vomiting, followed by lethargy, unconsciousness and ultimately death. The EPA has concluded that one out of five vehicles involved in an accident may have elevated levels of carbon monoxide in the cabin, which ultimately caused the driver to become inattentive. Carbon monoxide poisoning can be recognized by a flushed complexion, and blood that is a bright red (almost orange) in color. Performance If your car was produced after 1995 and has an exhaust leak upstream from the catalytic converter, then the exhaust leak will almost certainly cause a reduction in performance. This can occur because the engine's oxygen sensors are not receiving correct information about the engine's air-fuel ratio, which will cause the engine to inject more or less fuel to compensate. This decreases engine performance, particularly in the low-RPM band. Fuel Economy The performance decrease caused by an overly-rich fuel condition will require the driver to use a heavier foot while driving, which will inevitably lead to a decrease in fuel economy. Catalytic Converter Meltdown Catalytic converters use a matrix of metal to transform un-burned fuel into less harmful compounds but can only cope with so much. Too much fuel in the exhaust stream will cause the converter's internal temperatures to rise over 500 degrees, melting and cracking its internal matrix. This condition is called "converter melt-down" and can be extremely dangerous. An overheated converter can easily flash-ignite any surrounding combustibles, such as oil, transmission fluid and grease. |
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^^needs drop
i like a lil exhaust smell first thing in the morning. mixes well with coffee |
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Considering many here run without test pipes, and I ran an open header/no cat dump from GA to NOVA and survived, I'm sure they will be OK. Doesn't change my opinions of the mod itself, I'm just saying that "health risk" isn't high on my list of reasons why it is a bad mod. Quote:
Finally, http://www.the370z.com/attachments/p...11-icarly2.jpg |
:ugh:
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I actually like the look of TongMan's Z.
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People are not stupid for doing the washer mod on here. Just don't do it with HFC's, and especially not with test pipes. |
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A little thing called atmospheric diffusion is keeping me alive. Anyways, what's more dangerous. Washer mod or removing your catalytic converters? What if you get rid of your cats and you sit in traffic and the wind carries the exhaust fumes into your car? I'd rather be stuck with the washer mod. |
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I've had this mod for over a year and still kickin' haha I did it purely for sound and modding the car really is the least of my priorities right now. I gotta finish nursing school :) |
So after weeks of looking at/listening to different exhaust clips I decided to see if anyone tried removing the muffler. I knew the forums wouldn't let me down! I was surprised how good it sounded in the videos. So I figured I had a half hour to kill on a Saturday why not try it out for myself...
What started as a stupid thing to do on a boring weekend turned into a mission. I have only had the car for 8 months and 2/4 nuts may as well have been welded in place. Nearly a month later and 2 exhaust nuts cut off I finally got the pipes apart. I agree with all the naysayers on here that a real catback is the way to go, but for $1500 cheaper this produces a pretty b*tchin sound. Cold start is very loud and there is absolutely no rasp. No drone either, cruising at 2500 rpm is nearly silent. Driving around is almost reminiscent of a V8 - it's that deep. If you're bored one weekend and have deep 14mm sockets and a breaker bar handy (may as well hit it with some PB Blaster too) give it a try. Just take my advice and stop if you start stripping the bolts! |
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Post a video i haven't bought my Greddy yet I'm curious to hear the noise... |
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I know this is old thread but it was funny as hell....
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It sounds good but it definitely lost power in all ranges. I'd rather be quiet and fast then loud and slow.
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Another thing...I'm surprised with all of the Z lovers who no doubt care about detail in all aspects in performance that few people who have done this mention any change in power and responsiveness.
Mine went flat when I put 3 washers in. It had crisp and quick response before so I went to one and it seems to be much better. I have a stock exhaust and AFE drop ins. Not sure if that make a difference or not. But it makes me wonder if any exhaust on its own really does help power. I write this because opening the exhaust before the muffler reduced back pressure similarly to a cat back I would think and it was amazing how much power it lost. |
this is old lol <-- OP
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