I'm assuming I'm also gonna need some sort of grille to protect the IC and oil cooler. I want a nice black powdered mesh grille.
I could buy wire from a hardware store but I'd rather have something powdered and pre-fit. Ideas?

Z1 34 row oil cooler with thermostatic plating = $628.00

Kill me.

I went to home depot and bought diamond shaped aluminum mesh and the form fitted it to the inside of my bumper.

Also I cannot comment on the gauge question.

BJ Zacharias (Doran Racing driver) says there are few options for gauges unless you buy the AIM digital MDX - or whatever it's called - solution that starts at $1100.

My only thing with the grille is that it can't be silver. Has to be black and paint won't hold up there unless I clear it so it'll have to be powder.

It's soooooo worth it! Even on my NA.

I just emailed Z1 to see if they'd cut me a break on the price. I've spent a bunch of money with them over the last 3 years.

I did not put any protection in front of my IC, no issues and only have had to straiten out a few fins in 2 years...

I'd be interested in some sort of screen to protect the ic as well. Mines coated black, and there's a few chips in it. Let us know what you find.

Not for the Three gauge cluster. You have to rip them all out and put in individual gauges.

It sucks and that is why I have not done it yet... I would love to get rid of the POS stock clock. but I like the stock temp and voltage gauge, but you just can't get rid of one...

Well I can't run without boost/AFR gauges so I don't even know. I will not run a boost controller because I will get mad/stupid and blow the motor up but the gauges need to be there don't they?

My HU has a clock on it so I don't care about that at all. I don't really care about voltage either. What I want to see is boost, AFR, oil temp, engine temp and that's about it.

Its a supercharger. You don't need a boost controller.

I thought psi was a thing for both SC and TC. Only difference being that mine is accessory belt driven vs exhaust pressure driven.

You're correct, it's pulley driven. You only need a boost controller for turbos. The pulley is what determines your boost pressure. You can't run more or less boost than the pulley will allow.

It's a centrifugal SC, you gear the SC to the motor. As the motor increases RPM, the SC increases boost pressure. At redline, the SC makes maximum boost.

Wait..wait, you are cracking the pulley mystery. Can one of you explain this? GTM asked me to specify pulley size for the kit. There were like 5 options. I want maximum hp without risking blowing up the motor.

Suggestions?