cv129's slow build
 

Hi, first time making a thread like this. Just want to have an online journal to record the things being done.

2009 Nismo #164 (previous owner Earlz370), purchased in Nov 2011 with 11k miles on the clock. Paid $500 to CarMax upfront to ship to Dallas. Car arrived after a week. I ran my hand through the underside of the front bumper, couldn't feel any scratch or damage, and knowing it was used as a 2nd car (as will I), I purchased the car on the date of arrival, 11/3/11.

This car is bare bone, no backup camera, not even aluminum kick plates.

7/7/12 @14xxx miles - Installed Z1 34R oil cooler, M1 0w40 Euro, M1-110 filter (GTR size), Redline MT-85, @ Cobb Plano


Bumper off
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...6813d4a6-1.jpg


Setrab 34 Row is on the car. The OEM Yamaha body damper was flipped and retained, but was taken off during installation
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps86cd20d9.jpg


A closer shot
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...296d8374-1.jpg


Protective hose...I still hear a little bit of whine at very low speed, but I've gotten used to it
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps738debaf.jpg

Car will remain in this form, next change came during summer of 2013. So in between that I'll share an unfortunate event that happened to my other car in my next post.

Quick side story away from the Z...

Labor day weekend 2011, couple of months before the Z purchase, I flew to ATL, GA to purchase a 97 SC400, approx 228kmiles, for $7500.

Previous owner is a Lexus master tech, car was solid, no squeaks, mechanically perfect literally.

Beauty shots by previous owner:

Interior - two tone, suede wrapped arm rest lid, CF wrap center console and wood trims. 2 x Corbeau seats (wide version) + Corbeau seat rails
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps072f8922.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps71d7bf9b.jpg


As I drove away, previous owner took this shot across a 4 lane highway.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps8c06579a.jpg

Only thing I did during my ownership was an oil change, UOA, replaced ps pump and lines. Loved the torque, 1UZ was silky.

Fast fwd to Nov 2012, the week before Thanks Giving, long story short...the other guy thought he had enough room to cut across the intersection. Owned it for 14 months, drove it for less than 6k miles.


http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps35e00d4b.jpg


Don't worry, these are Rotas.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd8f89dce.jpg

Car was declared totaled, not surprised.

Seems like all my major car adventures, good or bad, always happen in Novembers. And that will stay true for 2013, as I sold my S14, bought a G37s AE for the wife, and suspension changes to the Nismo finally happened

Always wanted to know what the car puts down at the wheels. Curiosity came from my feeling that the car was a bit faster when temperature was cool. I usually drive the car at night or early morning (before and at sunrise) during weekends, so the few occasions when I drove it under the hot sun in the afternoons, I sensed differences.

8/10/13 @ 19xxx miles - Baseline dyno @ Cobb Plano. 10am appointment, about 10:25 when the car was strapped and ready. Ambient temp was high 80's, and slowly getting a hotter as the sun really hit. Car was at full operating temp when the dyno session started (coolant temp at the normal position, oil temp at 180F). Hood was closed during the consecutive runs. Trying to mimic real life day to day condition as much as possible.


3 pulls for $65 in case anybody wonder.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psaa1cbe6a.jpg


Result = 281whp, 231lb/ft, AWD Mustang Dyno. Bone stock (except for oil cooler and fluids). Yes it has oem style paper air filter still.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6512424e.jpg

Chatting with a MS3 owner while waiting for my appointment, I mentioned that I am using OEM paper air filter, he didn't believe me at first. He started laughing after he asked the second time, and I gave him the same answer, told me "c'mon man at least put a K&N drop-in". Soon after, I bought a slightly used pair from member Riptide67. Very timely and responsible communications from Derek for a smooth transaction.

Nice rides!

10/5/13 @ 19,880 miles - at this point, stock Yoko's rears were at 4/32 and did have a puncture couple weeks ago, so I decided to change to RE-11. 265/35/19 front, 285/35/19 rear. I drove to a specific DT location as the crew there handle sports cars with great care. Special thank you to local 370z member Jose Mesa, for helping me with a puncture and then this installation.

Drove 35 miles from downtown Dallas to Prosper for a worry free installation, but well worth it! Also saw a F430 in for tires, and a Z06 for swapping out slicks for NT-05 after a track day.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps1e22a9be.png

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse031be5b.jpg

Jose and crew really took care of me. Jose loosened the lug nut very gently with very light and quick taps on the impact gun trigger. Double parked my car so nobody would get close. Even tried to line up the center caps on each side (I was like "wtf is he doing pacing back and forth with the center caps in hand?").

Warning: Subjective, noob review coming...

My weekend, very early, morning drive always consist of driving through a section of a freeway.

• Approx 5 miles section of a freeway
• Some elevation changes and consecutive banked curves
• Uneven surface, dips and bumps in the middle of the curves

I want to take this chance to highlight some things I felt with stock tire setup 245/285 Yoko sports vs the 265/285 RE-11.

A quick pic before I started my first morning drive with the new tires.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse3cfae68.jpg

Stock suspension and tires: pushing the car through the section felt...kinda safe. I felt the stock shocks and dampers did their job in keeping the car from getting too upset, and back end never felt too loose. Up/down movements were controlled at double digits...pushed into the triple digits, things started to feel a bit rough, but still manageable.

Stock suspension, new tires: reduced the stagger, 265F and 285R RE11...the most noticeable change was, through those dips, specifically the moments when the car pushed/settled back down onto the pavement after the initial upward launch (like when the springs are extended and now need to pull back to the original state), that moment where the tires got compressed hard against the pavement, the front felt much more dominant, and the rear would get a little more upset/twisty, and tiny changes in steering input were needed. Tested over the same curves and dips over and over, and concluded that the car was more nervous/less linear (not necessarily a bad thing, every track guy in the 370z community suggests square setup for pretty much spirited driving to autox and tracking, but my need is different, skill level not as high)

So ^ prompted me to really looked forward to the SPL front arms being done and I could finally get my suspension changes underway.

Again, this is purely my impression. Do not blindly take my words. A 280whp 370z is the fastest thing I've ever had.

:tup: A journal is the best way to keep tabs on your build. As you make changes, list them. After awhile, you'll look back and go WOW! LOL

The more interesting stuff here:

11/1/13 - Added another VQ to the family, 2010 G37s AE. Good change from my bare bone Z. Good grunt, more comfortable than the Z, wife loves it.

11/2/13 @ approx 20,500 miles - Dropped off Z at Vorshlag Motorsports.

They specialize in suspension and related fabrications. Some may recognize this name from their camber plates and/or LSx swaps into E36 and Miatas. The owner also runs a TT3 S197 Mustang. However, I think they are largely unknown within the 370z community.

They have posted a detail writeup, link below. It's about 20 miles from where I live and work, and it would be impossible for me to visit during business hours due to traffic, so I'm glad they captured some of the progress.

Wai Wong's Nismo 370Z(ed) - Vorshlag Motorsports BMW (M3, E36, E46, E92), Evo, Mustang, Project Car and Racing Events Gallery.

I gave them as much time freedom as possible, and eventually got the car back after about 7 business days. Quick recap of things done:

• SPL front camber arms
• SPL rear camber arms
• SPL rear toe arms
• SPL toe lockout kit
• JRZ RS1 coilovers
• Strengthen rear shock tower
• Corner balancing and alignment

Some things:

Car ended up 1 inch lower. I initially wanted about 1/2 but we did agreed on ride height would be pending their assessments on shock travels.

I decided to go with stock alignment at this point. Car won't see track duty for another year or so, and based on my previous impression with the new tires setup, plus where and how I drive it, I rather be on the safe side (understeer).

Bought the RS1's back in April when Forged Performance had a special promotion going on, about a 40% discount, that's why I took the plunge. They sat in my bedroom for over 6 months before finally seeing action lol. I didn't want to, nor did I feel the need to, change the suspension on the Z, but the pricing was once in a lifetime deal for me and I couldn't pass it up. And to do it right, I dived further and got the necessary arms.

Would love to get the bushings too, but price (parts and labor) would be a bit much. I'll wait till this car racks up 40 or 50k miles and then revisit. I figure the bushings will be somewhat worn enough to justify a bushing change.

Very nice! Glad I was able to hook you up with the filters and thanks for the shout out!

It was great dealing with you. Although small $ transaction, you were still very responsive and filled me in every step of the way. Thanks!

Well, I saved up over 2 yrs worth of activities to start this journal lol. After tonight, updates will be veeeeeeeerrry few and far in between. Next up are the brakes but it'll be like my suspension...collect parts here and there then install all at once to save on labor.

Thanks Dozier!

Nice journal. I update mine all the time. Just to keep tabs. I'm jealous of your coils. I remember that deal, GTM was taking my money's.

Some pictures:

Z sneaking into the crowded garage
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps1c25b5db.jpg

Before...the white thing you see inside the front bumper opening is home made 2 piece cooler block off plates
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psddaf0d9c.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps392f0b1f.jpg


After...lowered 1 inch, stock alignment, not running spacers
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psdaeda14f.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psdb44b690.jpg

Beauty shots of arms and coilovers

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3df4b1de.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa28c05f2.jpg

Things that came out
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3fb6edc5.jpg

I took some pics myself in my living room, but theirs are much nicer

Rear shock tower reinforcement:

Quote from Vorshlag's site - "Since we moved the suspension loads in the rear from the OEM (divorced) spring location to the shocks (coilover), we had to reinforce the rear shock towers extensively. Our fabricators spent over 6 hours stitch welding, adding steel plate reinforcements, seam sealing and painting the shock towers in the rear"

I am really not sure if this step was necessary, as I've never seen any punch-through in the Z, G, or Genesis communities. However, in reading the horror stories in some of the older BMW's, and my car being a full weight street car, may or may not run into pot holes, I decided not to take any chance. It's a small price to pay in the grand scheme of things.

Before
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2c14d4c6.jpg

"OEM rear shock mount (above) and the 1/8" thick steel plate we replaced it with. This new plate was seam TIG welded to the shock towers."
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps10ffa2e4.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psde617929.jpg

"All black marks show wear stitch welds and rosette welds will soon be added. The factory pieces are only spot welded together in a few places."
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps89adef97.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps700e3d65.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps34a6b392.jpg

Working hard
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps126621e7.jpg

"After extensive paint removal, seam welding, fabrication and seam sealer the rear section was repainted in the factory color."
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps046a0480.jpg

Very nice good idea focusing on one area of the car at a time

Last, car on the scale

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4d0905db.jpg

Corner balancing. Car itself - no weight reduction, 150lbs driver, almost full gas tank (or at least 3/4, forgot to record the gas level when I took delievery). Total weight 3541lbs.
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd31a3aa8.jpg

I do not have adjustable end links. I've read some arguments on whether a true corner-balancing can be done with sways but w/o adjustable end links. It's not ideal, but I can accept this.

That's it guys, the only other post is my driving impression with this setup, I'll do that tomorrow.

Thanks. Well tbh, that's also largely because I cannot do the work myself. No space/tools/know-how. Must do it in a way that's more time efficient for the techs, and cost efficient for myself.

Yea I am pretty restraint with my money, but jumped on that deal w/o hesitation. I've had my share of poor performing coilovers, this was on my wish list from the get go. Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks for posting pic's of the rear shock towers. :tup: That gives me an idea of what to do for when I decide to get my coil-overs.

You are welcome! Will be interesting to see what coilovers you end up with.

Me too. LOL I want compression, rebound, ride height, and spring preload all seperate. Coil-overs like that are $$$ :eek:

^ why am I not surprised hahaha.

Can't wait to hear the driving impressions.

Quick facts about this coilovers setup:

• RS1 dampers, pillowball top mount included.
• Hyperco springs, 650lbs front, 525lbs rear...so around 11.5kg/mm front and 9.5kg/mm rear.
• Rear is true type, so can't directly compare spring rate on this vs OEM nismo ones.
• 21 clicks, single adjustment knob that controls both compression and rebound. (for this post, say 21 being the stiffest)

Honestly, if I was to pay full price, I would've spent another $800 or so to get their RS, with compression and rebound separately adjusted. But for $2500 shipped, and all hardware included (springs and top mount), I like it enough.

Another noob impression here:

As of today, I've driven the Z 4 times on this setup, but only the test drive on 11/16 Saturday morning gave me the feedback I need. I drove the car for about 2 hrs that early morning, with approx 1 hr spent looping that 5 mile section.

Impression is only my recollection of how the car reacted during the corners, no heavy braking/corner entrance/corner exit impression here.

RS1, 265/285 RE-11: at either half or full stiff, the rear was planted. Not once did I have the same feeling I described when it was stock suspension w/ 265/285 tires. Full stiff felt a few bits stiff than stock, but the up/down movements of the car were more controlled...a tad bit softer around initial blow, but stiffened up right after, is the way I describe it. Somehow the rear was very planted, no wobble, never wanted to jump out of place suddenly, always felt like the rear tires had solid contact to the ground. It was the fastest I've driven through that section, probably won't be doing that again.

I turned it to full stiff partly b/c of slight rubbings against the fender liner when I pushed the pace over those dips and bumps. I needed to see how this spring/damper combo react to simultaneous high/medium/low speed damping? I like the performance so far. Full stiff is a bit punishing for normal city driving/cruise, but did feel good during the faster pace test drive. I've since then backed it down to 15 clicks all around. I really need more continuous seat time though, testing it days apart is just not efficient.

During a revisit, as I raised the question on brake cooling to the shop owner and crew, we discovered quite a few hairline cracks on my stock rotors lol. I think these are the original rotors and car is sitting on less than 21k miles right now.

Also, a few pics I snapped during the revisit.

That big'ol round spot where the OEM spring would go, now empty
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psebf7b9dd.jpg

Red marks are to check for slippages
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps989f02b1.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps112ee659.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0266df60.jpg

Rear coilovers have been making knocking noise, went back to Vorshlag for a diagnosis back in November 2013, and it was the spherical bearing up top. The replacement parts finally came in back in January 2014, so car will be going back in for a quickie.

It did take longer than expected to receive the replacement bearings, but I understand I was catching Bryan Hise @ JRZ at a very bad time (Thanks Giving, PRI, Daytona testing, Xmas).

Since car is going back in anyway, I decided to do some minor upgrades to some braking components.

• Nismo pads
• Titanium shims, 0.5mm version
• Cyro treated Centric premiums

From Concept Z Performance
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2b7a3d9c.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps615f012b.jpg

Went with these pads because these are rather cheap @ $180 for fronts + rears, and C&D test showed much improvement over stock pads.
Nismo only disclosed the friction coefficient to be "more than 0.3 mu", which really doesn't say much (Project Mu NS400 is advertised at 0.34 to 043 mu, for comparison).


Titanium shims from Hardbrakes.com
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps10035c3b.jpg

I figured it would be good, even for a street car, to shield some heat from calipers (namely the seals). They are about $100.

The Cyro Treated Centrics will get shipped to the shop directly, so pics later. Tirerack quoted $285 shipped. Thought about 2 piece rotors, I know I won't feel any difference and weight saving won't impact me realistically. I just need something that withstands heat better (stockers have hairline cracks and I didn't really abuse them). Member Cossie and Clintfocus both have used cyro treated rotors and worked well for them in more heated applications, so that should be good enough for me.

Won't be doing SS lines and fluids at this time. I don't think I'll burst the stock lines, and I won't be boiling any brake fluid anytime soon. I'll probably do those when I do the CSC and MC later on, however.

Those are the same shims I use. Did you get the grease to put on them?

Yep same ones, I remembered seeing them in your thread :tiphat:

No I didn't get any grease...ahh it's the purple Permatex grease right? I'll get some now. Thx :tup:

Centrics Premium Cryo
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps42lqvdjf.jpg

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...pssappnrlu.jpg

Pads installed with the Ti shims
http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf6qvsedz.jpg

Bought a set of Race Ramps from Reverse Logic.

Reverse Logic Limited Store - Featuring Race Ramps

Demo Video with a ZR1

ZSpeed aluminum undershroud is finally here!

Stock undershroud was getting beat up. Homemade fix until the new undershroud arrived. The middle three clips wouldn't hold any more. Sealed off all holes to prevent flapping noise from bad air flow.

One bad thing about the stock plastic shield is its elasticity. When heated up (engine heat, Texas summer), and the middle three clips not holding any more, the shield will sag with the middle section hanging quite low. You can see my home made fix was taking a beating.

Also added 13mm spacers and ARP extended studs. Studs were trimmed back to length, I wanted to retain the stock look and the stock lug nuts.

Front tires are 265/35/19. Rear tires are 285/35/19. Stock alignment.

Nice. You need to do my fix. PM me your address, and I ship you a couple of the nuts, when I get home next week. ;)

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...nder-tray.html

Did they have a 285/30/19 ? would have been pretty close in side wall hight with a 30 i believe

Rusty's contribution deserves its own post!

Got these quite some time ago, just never posted it up. Thanks Rusty :tiphat:

RacingBrake rotors. Bought from Mr. Synolimit. Protective coating still on.

Whiteline diff bushings. Bought two sets of these, first set already went on wife's car (OEM bushing busted at 40k miles). Car feels great now :driving:

ARK R-Spec TP. Used, from Mr. pRoJeKTxZ. Can't wait to un-chock the VQ!

Shiny oil pan!!!! CJ Motorsports baffled oil pan. Bought from Mr. DR_ .

Did you get these installed yet?

You'll like the Racing Brake rotors. If you look at the rotor rings. You will see a dimple where they checked the hardness on them.

^ nah not yet....I know, this "build" is slow as snail haha.

would love to know brand of these .they arent on vorshlags site