X 3 :iagree:

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

I'm up on the dyno for the post rebuild tune
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7e8aca3204.jpg

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

Last dyno run here at MAC Autosport in denver (pre blowup) looked like this.

317hp /251q

380 ish hp at altitude probably right at 400 at sea level. (The dyno run was at 5000 feet MSL)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a141a0b2a.jpeg

Mods on rebuild that might affect power are:
-IPP heads with V1 JWT exhaust cams
-Harmonic dampener
-Jet hot ceramic coated exhaust manifold and test pipes (might help evacuate exhaust?)

(I'll edit in most recent dyno sheet here in a few minutes once we get her dialed in.)

Can't wait to see what the fruits of your labor bare out!

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Before rebuild and after with JWT cans
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6327cb2345.jpg

17 hp
7.6 torque

Is this before or after tuning? Not a bad gain but I was expecting more with both the heads and cams considering all the previous dynos with them.

Then again, I'm pretty sure the elevation is playing a significant role as well.

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

Before dyno had full bolt ons gen 3 CAI z1 400 hp kit cat Berk cat back etc

The 17 hp and 8 q is just the cam. Also the motor hasn't fully broken on and settled (159 miles since rebuild so it might smooth out a bit.)

Remember this is just the V1 cam.

The tuner (Nick) sees a lot of vq37s and said this is the strongest na z motor he has seen.

I suspect 20 -25 hp loss due to altitude and 20 percent drive lone loss so I calculate about 418 hp. That's pretty solid.

Good numbers! My engine ended up right around 335 hp / 290 tq on 91 pump gas. That was with 11.5:1 compression, V1 cams, FI LTH, and Gen3 intake (vs ~286 hp stock). One of these days, I’ll see if the new owner can furnish a dyno on 101 octane.

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

One day I'll dyno it at sea level on 94 octane (and put in a sea level tune). I hope to see 350 whp if I do, but really the numbers vary from dyno to dyno.

This is a solid engine and feels pretty good up on the mountain roads. (It has gotten louder and definitely needs a new or at least repaired catback to rid it of an annoying buzz harmonic. Aside from that I think she is pretty well dialed in now.

Ordered new thermostatic oil cooler bypass plate today. (This one has bigger an fittings for better flow)

(My previous one was contaminated with engine shrapnel.)

Also the IPP installed oil powered hydrologic lifters are knocking a bit as they work out air pockets on start. I’m trying to figure out if that is going to be an issue.
https://www.mishimoto.com/m22-thermo...ich-plate.html

Check the o-rings in that plate! It's one of the reasons no one buys mishimoto parts. Big thread on it. :eek:

Thanks!!! I will.

I went with this inline one instead (except with AN fittings). Required to make accusump work.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a8b3765bc.jpg

Who makes that one?

This is the layouthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef92b3c8fa.jpg
Up in here
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...13f168d31e.jpg

Accusump is installed and plumbed into my oil cooler bypass

I plumbed my oil pressure gauge into the sandwich plate by the oil filter.

Heres a pic of the thermal bypass plate

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9d50edefba.jpg

In other news the hydraulic lifters in my IPP heads are pretty loud and knocky .

I’m working with them to troubleshoot.

If I have to rebuild the heads (pray not) ill swap on C2 JWT exhaust cams. I really do NOT want to go through all that but will if thats what is needed to un F*%k those IPP heads.

So far I’m not super impressed with IPP. More on that after I sort all this head nonsense. If I require a rebuild that will be pretty bad.

Before I get too worked up though, I’ll do my due Diligence troubleshooting these heads with input from IPP. Wish me (and my bank account) luck...

Its not a good sign that brand new heads from IPP are not functioning properly. IPP built them from scratch (they would not accept my cores which seemed odd at the time)

I asked IPP to use the new JWT cams on the build and they assured me that they did only to admit later that they did not know about the C2 cams. At that point my motor was already build and installed so it was JUUUUUST days too late. That was a bit upsetting.

Stay Tuned (pun intended)

If you're going to swap the heads, you could look at going to 350Z/VQ35HR heads to delete VVEL, though I suspect there's a lot of work associated with it (and probably a new ECU).

I feel for you. I've been through this mess myself. No one wants to take the blame for their screw ups. :shakes head:

Bad rattle in my berk glass packs so I cut em open, gutted them welded em back up and reinstalled as “expansion chambers!! Lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7ef94276a2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dd6678a86f.jpg
Exhaust rattle cured

That should fix it. :rofl2:

Surfdog , I assume they put together for you the Stage 2 longblock which is what I'm wanting to do. I'd be miffed as hell if they told me C2 cams and then did'nt have them. My question with me planning on getting the Stage 2 longblock is whether or not you're happy with the build of the motor. My goal is to get a minimum of 650 on pump gas and to do it I'm gonna need to be in the 16psi range with no concerns. I don't want to spend money on their longblock if you just got yours and you're not happy with it.

I’d be a bit careful using IPP. It might be that they are great, but my experience was disappointing. The heads are not running very well (either the lash is off or the lifters are bad or perhaps it’s something else that we have yet to diagnose)

I’ll let you know how it goes. For now to be safe I would stick with Z1 or look for recommendations here I. The forum of good engine builders.

BTW I don’t know much about FI, so cannot really help with recommendations there.

Thanks, FI or not if their build is sketchy pushing it will pop or bend something. Your top end not operating optimal after they put it together speaks to a QC problem somewhere because it should've been caught before it shipped and not after it was installed. I'll keep an eye on your progress, I have till February before I have to start writing checks.

Rebello Racing built my engine and I was pleased with the result. MA Motorsports is another option and I understand they are the exclusive distributor of the new JWT stage 2 exhaust cams.

I was thinking about adding an accusump to my setup as well. Thanks for posting yours. Which valve system/PSI did you end up going with?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...675a13f5d9.jpg

My oil system runs high (near 100 psi). Due to Nismo oil pump. This will pretty mush just act as insurance if I cavitate the pump in high g turns.

Also it’s kinda cool to be able pre lube the motor on startup.

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

After an ocean of due diligence and troubleshooting it turns out the cam noise I have is due IPPs heads having a valve lash issue. Not cool on brand new heads.

The valve lash is pretty bad. I can’t run the motor this way.

I have troubleshot all I can and had my suspicions verified by my go to guy at a Nissan dealer nearby. (I know I know but the guy is good and also a friend)

Next step is to tear down the heads and reset up the lash with proper valve caps. It’s about 15 hours labor.

I’m not too happy with IPP.

On the plus side I can now retrofit in my JWT c2 cams.

About IPP

I have heard good things about the shop, and this story is still not over. I”m hoping IPP will make this right. I’ll let you all know how it shakes out. I hope to hear back soon about what their idea for the next step in getting me up and running is. Pulling the heads and shipping them back is probably not a viable option just due to labor costs. I will probably have to have the lash redone locally.

I understand stuff happens, and I think they are good guys down there. It will be interesting to see how well they stand behind there work. Like I said I’m reserving judgment. They may yet come through and make this right.

It has been quite a voyage so far trying to put my blown Motor back together.

Hope that everything works out for you Sir :xmastup:

:happyholidays:

It will al be fine. Expensive but fine. I don’t mind spending a little money on the car, I prefer it when they guys I’m working with do a good job and stand by there work. I really hope IPP pulls through. I’d love to give them a good review on a tough situation

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

Edit. This post is misplaced from my Factory 5 build thread. So I guess I hijacked my own thread. Oops.

Body work progress.
I’ll be picking up the last of my powdercoat parts tomorrow and installing door strikers

I’m just filling some cracks and gaps on the hood and body getting ready for sand and prime.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...93792e0bb1.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c9e9f24d13.jpg

Oops that the other build (racecar)

Thez z is getting a gauge upgrade (again)
From these https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...118d426929.jpg

To these
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6533a85afa.jpg

My oil p gauge pegged out at 100 with cold oil. So I’m going to 150 (and maybe thinner oil)

The other gauges do not work because I broke the circuitboard when I tried to replace the oil pressure gauge so I am replacing them with better looking and matching new gauges!!!

I am modifying the pressure gauge to say oil as opposed to pres,so it will take 30 days for them to print up my new gauge and send it out.

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

In other news the V1 cam that I got from IPP is going to be replaced by the V2 Cam from MA motorsports because I have to redo my valve lash.

The MA guys took pity on me and gave me a great price. (About what the group buy was I think)

Sooo. The Z is back out of service again. (I did get to buzz it around a bit while troubleshooting those goofed up heads... I forgot how much I love zooming around in that thing.

At least it’s out of service during snowy months, when I usually just garage it anyhow. ..

You were able to replace only the clock in the triple-gauge? I've read elsewhere that all three gauges need to be replaced at once...

edit: Just noticed this...

Actually the speedhut stuff looks so much better, I recommend doing them all anyhow. The broken board was a blessing in disguise


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You did the samething that I did with the oil pressure gauge. Change out the 100 to 150 psi. A heads up. The 150 psi gauge uses a different sender, and you have to use it. Otherwise the gauge is pegged all the time. Don't ask how I know. :facepalm: And my gauge used a different plug at the gauge. So instead of running the new wiring harness. I changed the plug.

I went with the Prosport 60mm JDM gauges for oil press, oil temp and afr. They're digital and analog with a led color change on the sweep and audible alarms. Haven't HAD any problems with the senders as of yet but they break necks. https://youtu.be/q9wSIGJcmv0

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I’m glad to hear 150 is enough. I think the high oil pressure bypass opens right about 100 psi. (Which seems high but has been confirmed normal (at least for cool oil) by several sources. It feels creepy having an oil gauge pegged most of the time.

Cold idle is around 105 to 115. It stays there for a few minutes then drops to 38 to 40 psi. Once the rpms starts to come up around 2000. The pressure starts to raise too. It will go to around 115 to 125 psi around 6000 rpms. This is what I know with my limited time with the gauge. Now I can see why the 3.7 will blow out the galley gaskets. :eek: I have the warning lights set to 25 psi for low and 135 for high.

I worry a bit about all my external plumbing (cooler Acusump etc but will have faith.). At least I have the new upgraded oil gallery gaskets in.


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