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Most all hubs are great quality. As far as steering wheels I'd go with a smaller one. I think about 330mm. It's delivers better steering input. Like a go kart. And yes you get to keep all the stalks and such.
Yea, the crap behind the dash is a mess. But so worth IMO. |
I was looking at NRG's site for hubs and such. So do you have to get the quick-release as well to make it all work, or can you mount the wheel directly to the hub? I don't feel like I need a quick-release on the car currently. Are there compatibility issues with different hubs + wheels?
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You can mount directly to the hub.
The wheel won't be nearly as far rearward if you don't get an extension or a QR though. |
Here's some photos.
Imagine not having the QR there spacing flat center hub of the wheel to the black hub coming off the steering column. It would be nearly two inches forward. http://www.the370z.com/attachments/m...129_182121.jpg http://www.the370z.com/attachments/m...129_182109.jpg |
I was honestly a little surprised with how easy the install was. Took me less than 15 minutes to do mine.
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I sit really close to my pedals so there's no way to get out (especially in a crises). Unless your that skinny. Which I'm not.
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Do you have any photos of your engine bay, fully assembled, from right before you removed the engine?
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yea new pics!
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Yes. I have several. I just moved three weeks ago and my Internet wont be hooked up till tomorrow. Not sure why it has taken them so long. But I'll be back in business this weekend. I have a good bit of things to sell. Trust me, it has sucked.
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Since you are actually tracking your car I would suggest not going with an NRG hub and wheel since those things are made for street cars. I would go with a works bell short hub and quick release. Works bell also makes a racing quick release that needs to be welded to the steering column. Then go with a sparco/omp/nardi steering wheel. I dont see the sense in gutting your car to build a "racecar" and then putting an ebay/street NRG quick release and steering wheel in your car.
Evasive motorsports sells the Works bell short up and quick release for 370z btw. |
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Because they arent engineered to racing standards. Anyone else NRG would be fine on. But if you are going to the extent that you are ripping out your air conditioner and firewall to build a race car, then you should be using actual racing equipment not ebay parts. I would like to see ONE true race car with NRG product on it. (also works bell/sparco/omp make lighter stronger products than NRG)
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Sounds like a silly brand bias. :)
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The hubs and QR's are engineered to very very tight tolerances. I know because I have them. The wheels are definitely cheap street stuff, I know because I have one. I will be changing my wheel in the next 6-12 months, for sure, but the hub and QR, I don't see how it could possibly be made any more reliable or strong, or at least how it could possibly be enough better for me to care. I have much more important stuff to blow money on than to have certain brand names with 'Engineered for racing' stamped on the box. Thanks tho. |
EVAP removed. Fuel line will be heat wrapped. Exhaust leak finally discovered, had washer on the inside of the gasket. Don't ask how.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5580f519.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3abaf905.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ac5550f.jpg K&N Filters added to the intake side of the PCV http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps73b9c460.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps51d37f61.jpg Stock injectors http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps826fdb94.jpg Bosch EV14 725cc and pigtails http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3c53b534.jpg NGK GTR plugs (one step colder), Gap set to 32 http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d6ab19b.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps82724cc0.jpg This heater line will be modified and heat wrapped http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps69ad08b2.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...pse7a3e4c4.jpg http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5e1cc9ca.jpg |
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