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Nothing more than mental data and compairing it to what I read here. It's a very interesting issue that a lot of people have had.
I just wonder if there is slight difference in year model when speaking of this issue. No different than Nissan eliminating other small issue that have been known. I was running XP8's all around now XP 10's front 8 rear on street tires (RE 11's). I know when I track I brake hard and feel I'm pretty good at it. I can't imagine it being any harder. I haven't mastered trail braking yet. I do go from some high speeds into some intensive braking zones like T10 at Road Atlanta where I feel if something was going to happen it woud there. But the tracks I have been to are not really that brake intensive either when it comes to continuous heat cycles. This tracks have good distance between zones. Things I feel that has help is I have reduced some good weight from my car, brake ducts (ice mode would have to be a heat related issue also), and stiffer spring rates to help with weight transfer. I don't have much experience to bring to the table but my own experiences. Just trying to put it all together. |
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No ice mode for me at the track yesterday, just lots of rear ABS lock up causing the back end to dance around in heavy braking. I just need to find a lesser pad to put in there and try out. Maybe AutoZone duralast specials :)
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^ better than spending $$$ on rear race pads. Might be what u do next time around to save a few. Plus we'll be more than ok to run that setup.
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Getting ready to sell a few things off the car. Threads with pics and prices will be up soon but wanted to give those who follow this thread a heads up in case they want some of the things!
- SEIBON Carbon TS style hood with Aerocatch hood pins - 18" Forgestar F14 wheels with Hankook RS-3 tires (track setup) ***Looking for possible trade for stock 19" Rays + Tires*** - Password:JDM aluminum shift knob with color pack of changeable washers And of course I still have these virtually brand new Continental Extreme Contact DW tires for sale too... http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...read-left.html |
I know I'd be interested :driving:
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Selling a few small parts I had lying around the garage...
http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...d-jdm-spc.html http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...-oem-vlsd.html |
Been a while since I have updated this thread and quite frankly its because nothing has been going on with my car. I did however just edit some video from 8 months ago from the last time I took my 370Z to the track...and probably the last time I ever will...
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...ml#post2134633 |
^bump for being a track beast!
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To beat a dead horse.... I wonder why some folks have this issue and others don't. There have been a lot of posts on my350z about the same thing lately. Must have something to do with braking style.
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"From talking with countless people, professional race teams, etc. I am subscribing to the theory that the ABS computer has parameters set for wheel speed, steering angle, g-forces, brake pressure, etc. If you exceed the parameters through a number of possible situations like too much brake pressure + too much steering angle then the ABS computer triggers ice mode as a safety measure to prevent a spin. I think the settings for the parameters are way too low for driving this car on the track. Plus I think modifying your car only makes it more likely to happen. Adding things like a limited slip differential will change the wheel speed in the rear compared to the stock VLSD. Adding things like suspension and sticky tires will mean you are capable of more lateral and braking gs. In my particular case in the video where I had the off, the mph is high, the car is turning so there is steering angle, and that combined with g-forces above what you would see on the street meant that I was probably already violating the computers parameters so as soon as I even breathed on the brakes the ABS tried to straighten the car out and because I was already at the edge of the track it was enough to put my left side tires in the dirt." So, perhaps many aren't exceeding the parameters set in the computer. Perhaps Nissan updated the parameters further into the production as my Z is a VERY early 2009. Perhaps my specific setup allows it to be triggered more easily. All I know is that it is a VERY prevalent and intrusive problem on my car so for that reason, I am over trying to track it. |
I wish you the best. Glad I've never had this issue.
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Thinking about this ice mode issue, could it be something that is based on the trim level of the car, and is this something that can be played with threw Consult and has anyone looked into that?
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So what about running something like Racelogic traction control system and I think White Line has one as well but it might be for the 350Z, any thoughts on that?
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why not just unplug the sensor behind the shift knob and go old school with no ABS?
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Won't you need to unplug the OEM ABS or is it a piggy back to use the Racelogic? Either way with the Racelogic your able to tune the system via controller. Of course if this is a cure all for the issue, it's pretty spendy at $2288.00.
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From what I understand, the Racelogic doesn't effect braking or the way ABS works at all. It simply gets information from the ABS system about wheel speed. The only thing it actually controls is fuel injector pulse which has zero effect on braking or the ABS system. Besides, for $2,200 you might as well run all new brake lines and an aftermarket dual master setup with brake bias adjustment bypassing the ABS all together. That's a for sure fix. |
thats good to know. I was unaware of the 50/50 split. But I have never encountered ice mode with mine fortunately.
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I have my Yaw sensor unplugged for a month now with no issues. Course I have had no issue with so called ice mode either. Lucky me. This issue seems more and more to me as a production issue between cars. I unplugged mine for when you do turn off the VDC control the car still has control for another 10%. Which would pop up from time to time. I disliked this a lot. Plus the yaw sensor has been proven by SOHO racing to retard timing up to 3 degrees. That's alot on the track, up to 20+ whp. For me when I get on it in the exit of a turn the power feels more planted equally (cause the traction control is retarding timing and appling brkes to a particular cornor to help balance the car, mostly for people who can't drive) and of course I have a great LSD but it all seems to be working for myself. The yaw sensor only aids with the ECU and ABS system to help modulate slip angle when slip is noticed but the ABS still works as it would. |
I remember locking up rears constantly when I disabled ABS... 50/50 setting makes perfect sense in retrospect
hey, gl this weekend chris |
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Thanks man. I'll be taking the first session slow. I have nade a lot of changes on my car. |
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I thought that 50/50 was well know among us (track junky peoples...) hehe seem like the word still have to get heard a bit more. |
other than brake fade with the original calipers, I've had no other issues, so I haven't studied the brake system that much.
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I had no issues the first year I tracked my car either. I think what Downshift said in another thread about the pump wearing down every time you hit ABS making it easier and easier to hit it again each time makes a lot of sense in my particular situation. For those who haven't had any issues yet, I would suggest going with Shamu's approach to adding a vacuum canister which seems to help prevent it but will not eliminate it. It seems once you start hitting it, it rapidly gets worse and worse.
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I've thought about doing that. It's a cheap easy project.
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I don't see any reason not to do it. I have even thought myself about replacing my pump and doing a vacuum canister just so I can hopefully go back to not having the issue for a while. That or sell my Z and get something else that doesn't have this issue at all haha. Plus if it didn't work and I still had the issue I would be super pissed.
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Does anyone know what they are doing on the Nismo RC for traction control/ABS, and yaw sensor?
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I have done fair amount of work beyond the vacuum canister on my car to minimize ice mode. I spent a lot of time running no abs. I have nice big brembos in front with more aggressive pads. Kept stock calipers in rear with less aggressive compound. There is a reason why I run 315 rear tire and 295 front stagger. Then spent lots of time on suspension to limit weight transfer to front during heavy braking essentially just added a bunch of bump to front.
I haven't pulled this y'all sensor yet. But I haven't experienced ice mode anymore. I'm going to start building this car into an enduro racer and have help of someone who has a little experience with this platform. So I will keep you guys informed. Likely that stock system will be yanked. Sort of a shame as I would have really liked a fool proof way to defeat stock ice mode issue. I think I got pretty darn close as I went from constant ice mode to nothing after changes above. |
Yep, I am just patiently waiting until I have the funds to get a track ready setup again. And by that I mean ditching the ABS and getting a dual master brake setup with adjustable bias, CJ Motorsprots fuel pump thingy that fixes the starvation issue, and a truck/trailer. Then I can start having fun at the track with the Z again. Its just not fun when you spend the whole time worrying about ice mode and not even being able to drive the car to 100% of its potential.
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I'm fortunate in that I have started to work with one of the guys who developed 370z grand am cars for AM. Will be turning my car into a track monster now. car Goes in for seam welding and cage and other goodies soon. So maybe later this year I will get on track more. |
Ordered a Summit Racing Vacuum Canister today. Figured for less than $50 I should at least give this car one more shot. Once I get it I am planning on doing a back to back test in an empty parking lot somewhere to see if it helps ice mode at all.
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http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps8313f584.jpg
Mounted my vacuum canister today, although I haven't hooked up the plumbing yet. Going to do a "before" test to see if I can engage ice mode then hook up the canister and try it again to see if it helps. Install so far has be super easy. Ideally you want the canister as close to the brake booster as possible but in front of the left front wheel was as close as I could get. Shouldn't be an issue though from my understanding. I just mounted it to the OEM horn mount and zip tied the horn up out of the way. Then its just running vacuum line. There's a factory vacuum hose that runs from the back of the intake manifold to the firewall which eventually leads to the brake booster. Planning on just removing that line and running a line from the manifold to the check valve on the canister then from the canister to the bung on the firewall that leads to the booster. If it all works and I don't screw up the install somehow then the entire install start to finish would have taken probably a collective total of 20 minutes with zero drilling, cutting, or fabrication. If this fixes or greatly reduces ice mode then we should all be very very happy and thank Shamu for being the guinea pig. He has reported zero ice mode since installing his. |
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