Sounds like fun, Alan. Glad you are enjoying it! That's a great car stock w/ right tires! I'm sure I'll run up against some at my local tracks and I'll post vid so you can see me pass them for yourself ;)

Some ideas on what to remove:
-Sound deaden
-completely remove A/C and heater core units
-radio and components
-de-pin extra wiring (side sign marker, turn signals, radio and A/C, and so on)
-Stock fuel tank, cut-out spare tire and fill it with a flat piece of sheet metal
-Bumper supports. You can replace them with homemade crash bar made out of aluminum.

Some chassis stiffening ideas:
-3M poly-foam in rocker panel and other location (light weight and fire resistant too)
-Front and Rear Strut bars /or custom strut bar in the front that would connect to your cage and firewall

Reliability and safety ideas:
-Race buckets, I prefer ones that don't recline.
-4/5 point racing harness
-Cage
-Ducting (brakes, radiator, oil cooler)


Good Luck on the build, can't wait to see how this turns out:tup:

Phantom! Thanks for the advice! I can tell you've done this before... I'm going down the path for first time and need all the advice you guys can spare on weight reduction and stiffening, so this is dead on. Many of these I am planning on, but a couple things I'd like more input on:

- on the wiring... how much weight do you think I stand to lose? sure would be nice to have a definitive list of what I shouldn't mess with... I'm a bit worried about de-pining wiring and having secondary effects

- on the fuel tank... I'll get to that eventually... will at some point have to switch to fuel cell and I think you're also suggesting I cut out the extra metal associated with the spare tire... I think I'm going to have my cage guy handle this part for me! I'm useless with a welder!

- bumper supports... I like this idea - seems like a lot of weight tied up in those... just wondering if I ever find my car in a wall down the road if I'm going to wish I had them???

- poly-foam and strut bar to cage ideas... will look into thanks! also, re stiffness, do you think it is worth the trouble to seam weld?

Welcome more input ! :D

In case you didn't know, I've started a part-out thread here http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...tires-etc.html

posting pics tonight!

- on the wiring... After seeing the bare interior of a 370z, I would estimate that you could lose around 40-80 lbs. With regards to a list of which wires to remove, I would start by labeling the wiring after you remove their components(antenna, speakers, A/C, radio , air-bags, turn signals, and wipers units). After the those components and wires are removed, each car is different. Each have different systems and safety units, so I would recommend after the big component are de-pined work on the wiring one by one. And if the car doesn't function correctly you can always put it back, that's why I recommend de-pining and not cutting wires. I will try to find a wiring diagram of 370z and I look to see what I would remove.

- on the fuel tank... It looks like the 370z you will not have to remove the extra metal which is normal with a spare tire compartment, it seems to be pretty flat already.

- bumper supports... With bumper supports, I would recommend running them. You never know what can happen on the track, you could run a little hot into a corner or someone else can make a mistake. My recommendation was to make bumper supports out of aluminum tubing, which keeps the protection but loses some weight. Bumper support were one of the last things that I worked on for weight reduction. The interior of a car has a lot of areas to remove weight, and it harder to remove extra metal once that cage goes in. I'm currently looking at the bare 370z's interior to see where some extra metal can be removed, so I'll get back to you with that.

- I recommend Seam weld because it is a common practice in the 240sx world. Seam welding does stiffen the car by not allowing the crumple points to flex and to add more strength to spot welds. If you look at most race car builds you'll notice that they seam weld the chassis. The negatives to seam welding a car is that it takes a fair amount of time and welding shops normal charge by the hour, which means you could be spend some big $$$, I got lucky and had a friend weld my car for a couple cases of beer. Also with seam welding you lose the factory crumple zones, which makes crashes more painful on the driver's body.

Travis, RCZ

I am using Bridgestone E-11's. 245 front and 265x19 rear. Not the best for track use but I now drive to the track since I sold my Trailex.

As to regrets, I sometimes think I should have just stuck it out with the Z and worked through it's issues. But I am pretty happy with the CS.

Looking forward to the video.

Thanks again... agree on spare - not like a lot of cars that have dished out panels for spare - already flat... but if there's extra metal there to reinforce, may go after it anyways... 40 lbs of wiring would be sweet... will pursue seam welding... will prob save bumper supports for last, but will keep it in mind

Cool. Maybe you can get some vids of you driving your new CS too!?

only area that I would remove metal from would be from; behind the b-pillar and cut the interior door frames.

Here is a example, using MS paint, outlined in red is where metal should be removed.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...2000/doors.jpg

UPDATE: doors are now gutted... now more windows

UPDATING TRACK VIDEO JOURNAL this afternoon... ran into an issue

"I'm home early from the nasa event!!! :(

Will post here in a couple hours, but bad news... 02 sensors are fine, oil temps are fine, I do have a check engine light, but there are no other visible indicators of a problem... yet I AM STILL HITTING LIMP MODE !!! We'll not exactly limp mode, more like losing the throttle all together, like fuel starvation... but I don't think that's it, because it happened with half+ tank of fuel and turns were not very long

THEORY1: There is something seriously f'd up with the ECU

THEORY2: Fuel starvation... haven't ruled it out yet

Update forthcoming"

That really sucks. I hope you can figure it out and solve the problem easily/cheaply. Good luck.

In case you haven't already seen it, wanted to remind everyone that I'm selling parts off my car... thread is here:
http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...tires-etc.html


Also, I posted a write-up on the AP Racing brakes this weekend, here it is
http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...installed.html



.

Some updates:

Car is back with Redline Motorsports for a variety of work:
- add rear diff cooler
- design/install ducting
- install new oil pressure / water temp dual Spa gauge
- carbon fiber center console replacement


Also, planning out the following new projects:
- seam welding
- cage install
- fire supression
- fuel system enhancements... fuel cell, pump, regulator, lines

Hopefully new wheels will be here soon !!! Once the arrive, will be shoed likely in Hoosier rubber... I will be chasing their contingency tires Hoosier Tire

.

I cant wait to see your results. I dont think I could ever go full-race on mine, but Im excited to see what you do.

UPDATE:

We have determined that my car is throwing a code "U0160"... it is also regularly blowing 1 of the 2 "meter" fuses... we think this is causing the 'limp mode' that I am getting, as opposed to prior theories about fuel starvation, o2 sensors, etc... my shop has theorized that there may be a short in the can bus or in a wire connecting to the gauge cluster either a short or severed wire

Will prob take to dealer that did my engine swap and ask them to trace the problem... more to come

Good luck Travis. It sounds like a simple problem that may be very hard to diagnose. Probably the right move to take it to the dealer for this one.

Travis,

Hopefully finding your short will be a short venture.

Glad to see someone else using the Spa dual gauges. I plan to replace my $900 stopwatch on the dash with an oil temp/oil pressure gauge. Looks to be an easy fit.

The Alcons, BTW, look great on the car and in the data log.

U0160 Lost Communication With Audible Alert Control Module

That's a new one for me - sounds like the door chime isn't working???? - lol Hope you get it worked out.

Hey Ken... could be as simple as a code that got registered when I had to reset the airbag light... that procedure sometimes disables the chime, which could in turn create the u0160 code... or it could be as i said before that there is a short or disconnect somewhere that is blowing the meter fuse and threw this code... whatever the case, hoping the dealer can help us resolve the mystery limp mode issue too... prob a long shot, but we're going to give it a shot...

if we draw blanks on this, going to go forward with tuning and upgrading the fuel system... then see if the issue persists... as you and I have discussed, if the issue causing limp mode relates to the computer getting thrown off by my bolt on mods, tuning may set ecu parameters where they should be for the more free flowing intake/exhaust...

... oh well, all speculation for now

Hey Alan, good to hear from you

Spa gauges are big with the porsche crowd... reputation for accuracy and precision... not yet installed, but soon

Re brakes, thanks... could have gone brembo but these ap racing brakes seem like the best deal for a serious track car... I think they will come alive and really be put to the test once I get some stickies !

http://automoto.goodnano-av.com/
 

Questions and answers about 1973 oldsmobile 442 and Intrigue oldsmobile recall.

Now that I think about it the code that you'd get from the bolt on mods would be a lean code but it is possible for that code to be reset after a number of key cycles. If it happens again you'd need to pull the code immediately after it happend.

I just got the Cipher cable from UpRev that has the ability to pull codes but I'm not sure of the compatability with the 370z - but I do know that any OBD2 code reader would be able to pull any codes off any vehicle built after 1996.

I've been working with Coulter Nissan on the diagnosis... good guys there!

They pulled MANY codes off the car, but all were related to disconnecting and reconnecting various wiring harnesses and none seem to relate to the throttle and engine cut-off issues.

We have a few theories, but the plan now is that I will bring their master tech with me to the track at PIR next weekend 9/12-13 for my next NASA event. We intend to hook up the dealer's computer while running and see if we can capture some freeze frame data to isolate any sensor variables that are out of range and isolate the timing of any codes that coincide with limp mode or engine cut-off.

More later.

Cool - Can't wait to hear the outcome and I wish I could come out to see what the nissan software looks like and how it operates. Good luck and keep us posted!

Incredible post, Travis!
 

I spent the last several hours reading all 21 pages of your post (this is what I do on my Labor Day Holiday!). Your build history, parts, and comments, testing is awesome! You also have a great tech/fab at Redline! I'm anxiously waiting on your next post. I hope you get the engine shut-down issue fixed soon. It's cool that Nissan is sitting with you at the track downloading data real-time! It seems they have an interest in your endeavor.

Its Anthem, what else are you supposed to do? :rofl2:

Build my 370Z, go off-roading in my 4x4, see a movie, go out to dinner, etc ... preferably with a beautiful woman who wants to be with me for the next 30 years. One can dream...no? But I digress...This is Travis' thread about his race build.

Thanks for jumping in... okay to ask questions and share your thoughts here... I'm not worried about thread-jacking!

More updates later this week

I had a engine cut-out this weekend during auto-x. It was purely a fuel cut after taking a long sweeping right hand turn at 1.2G below 1/4 tank, except that the cut lasted an extraordinarily long time before it got going again. The programming on the engine computer seems to be a little slow to recover compared to previous engine revs.

Obviously you have more going on than that but just wanted to point out how sensitive these engines are.

Chris, how can you be certain it was a fuel issue? thx

one of these days i need to see that car. I mean ive been to your house and have seen what used to be in your car. when is it going to the track again?

Once of my fellow racers had a well equiped trailer with several 5 gallons gas cans. So I bought one off him and poured it in and the problem went away.

It's not a new problem, it used to happen in my G35 as well. But where the cut out in the G35 was momentary, in the 370 it seemed to last about 2 seconds or more. Luckily I had completed my winning run on the run just prior, it would have sucked to lose because of that.

I'm going to try topping off before every run tomorrow and see if that fixes the problem

Unfortunately dealer backed out on joining me at the track...

Will update this weekend

Problem identified !!!

I kept the car topped off all day today, refilling every other sessions... only 1 issue with loss of throttle! It happened when I was 5 bars away from full and pulling sustained 1g loads through right hand turn. I'm now 99.99% convinced that the issue is fuel related. I look forward to upgrading the fuel system!

Wondering if we should start another thread on the fuel starvation topic and spread the word?

Going to go to my 'Track Video Journal' and add a new video from my session today.

you going to put in a fuel cell? :yum:

Yup... we're looking around now for proper fitment... Here's my project list... coming soon:

• More weight reduction... air conditioning, panel, sound deadening, replace rear glass, etc
• Swap HFCs for GT Motorsports straight pipes
• Custom rear diff cooler from Redline Motorsports
• Spa dual gauge... oil pressure / water F
• Ducting for front brakes custom from Redline Motorsports
• Fuel system upgrade... perhaps FuelSafe 25 gal... upgraded lines and pump/regulator
• Ducting for rear brakes (hoping to re-use whatever Sharif comes up with)
• AP Racing 1 and 3 brake pads (AP Racing just announced they are producing brake pads!)
• New Forgestar wheels (someday!) + Hoosier R6 tires

Others just a bit later

• Roll cage
• Racing seat + Harness
• Fire suppression
• Dyno tune... probably Uprev, maybe Cobb
• More bracing

reported nuimos as

Travis: I fabbed a baffle for the fuel pump/pickup in the fuel tank of a prototype I was developing at GM. Basically, it was a thin-guage metal tube (like a toilet paper tube but larger diameter) that wrapped around the fuel pump and extended to the bottom of the tank--I drilled some small holes (1/16th") around the bottom of the tube. The tube filled slowly while submersed in fuel, and when sustained hi-g loads were administered (driving up and down South Mountain Park--personal best: 8 min 30 sec to the top) and the remaining 1 gallon of fuel gathered to the outside of the tank, fuel remained inside the tube, thus eliminating the fuel starvation issue we experienced. It was easy to fab, easy to attach, and inexpensive. You could fab your own so you can keep racing until your fuel cell is ready for install. Z-U-later! Greg

Greg, you're awesome... great idea - will look into it some more... good to have more AZ people on this board... be sure to check out the AZ thread