interesting... perhaps robi can shed some light on this design and provide more pics?

Hey Travis, you wouldn't happen to have a complete torque spec sheet or know where I can get one for the 370 would ya? You can PM me if you like.

:tiphat:

Hey there, no I don't. But if you find one or put one together, would be helpful to start a post here on that topic. Might have to piece it together from service manual (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...html#post72340).

So, are you by chance rebuilding the motor?

From Saturday

http://www.thepaultaylor.com/wp-cont...293-Medium.jpg

Not yet. I have the Rotrex SC but I'm rethinking that vs. going NA. Right now I'm just learning how to become a better driver. I think a Motec is in the cards for my next mod.

Thanks for the link by the way

would appreciate your thoughts on how you see the benefits of aftermarket engine mgmt... I'm looking to squeeze more out of the motor NA as well, and frankly not sure which direction to go with that

Travis, your car has certainly come a long way! I really like it.

I know you are running Forgestar F-14's in 18", but what tires and sizes are you running?

Keep up the good work!

The car looks great and looks really flat through the corner. Looks like the suspension is working correctly

not nearly flat enough, but thanks... need stiffer springs!

Pm sent

What spring rates are you track guys running, I know our 550 are not gonna cut it. It turns the splitter into a plow.

well about the fender vents. idk about reducing drag but it im guessing by allowing the air in the fender a place to escape it pulls out the hot air from the fender and allows more air flow to the brakes.

and as far as reducing turbulence again im just guessing but rather than having the air just push out of the wheel well with no place to go is worse then having a specific place where it all flows to. how far did MIT or MTI go with wind tunnel testing?


as far as aero goes look at ferrari aero. full underbody aero trays, vents and scoops in certain places to smooth airflow and reduce drag and increase down force.

if you really wanted to have much better aero, go to home depot and custom make a gurney flap out of door sealer (a line of rubber to keep the cold out) and get some aluminum sheets and make a full body undertray, cut out a few ducts on the rear of the bumper or use the nismo bumper with the vents. and your car will be much more stable at speed. the lower the car the less air that gets under it as well.

Update: looking at two options to upgrade suspension... 1) re-valving BC ER's to run at 18K/16K spring rates... and may have the rears converted to true coilovers in the process and 2) switching over to a new setup all together... leaning towards option 1 - have a call in to BC Racing to see what we can figure out

Car is with Junior - rear diff cooling is coming along well.. a few other little projects are underway

here's a fresh pic

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...ghresimage.jpg

Travis, what is the width of your wing? My APR is 67" and looks a little wide, but that is what they recommended, and I haven't actually seen it in person yet, only the photos the bodyshop emailed me.

Yours is definitely wider, but I don't have a measurement handy and my car is at Junior's... prob 6"

I'm very pleased with this wing from a looks and downforce perspective... at my last event, I was hitting 130mph at the end of the straight and transitioning to a long left hander under moderate braking, and the back end was 100% PLANTED! would highly recommend this wing

Travis, i am loving all the difficult plowing you are doing with your car. You are saving me tons of time and learning.

Thanks. Following your build as well - would use the same exhaust if I were keeping to the street... good progress!

TravisJB: From your description, it seems that you are braking and initiating the turn simultaneously, then braking at least part way through the turn. This technique adds braking forces and geometry change to already complicated cornering forces. Have you tried that section of track by completing all of your braking while on the straight and running as deep as possible, then accelerating through the turn. This technique will isolate braking to the straight, and allow you to concentrate fully on traction while turning...the result being reduced time on this section and a position (or two) :driving:

Diff cooler update pics.
http://i43.tinypic.com/20fz62x.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/2vjuzyw.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/24p9wns.jpg

For reference, the wing on my car is 68" wide so it will look virtually the same... HUGE..

Travis/Fathead - The diff cooler stuff looks sweet!

Thanks Mike!

Junior- hellanicejob! :)

How do you make the parts in your pictures look miniature? They look like toy models.

He does all his work on a scale model before attempting on the real car.
:rolleyes:

In reality it is probably the low light that caused the effect. Low light causes the camera to use a wide aperture (lower number) which decreases the focal depth, a similar behavior that happens when shooting minatures up close (but for different reasons).

There are forums that go deep on these kinds of topics, so don't want to do that here but the quick story is that I was shooting in near dark with a high quality lens and a canon 5d mark ii. Lens has a great big f-stop and camera has an iso range of like 50 to 25,000... which is crazy... the physics are as chris described, and you can reproduce the effect if you have the right gear or through post-processing

Again with the mini pictures Travis?? You should put a roofscoop in to get some air into the cabin.

haha, no, that was a reply to a post from like 12 months ago!

Wouldve been way more sick if you had gone zonda R style and used a roof scoop to get air into that rear diff cooler.

We can always poke a whole in your car and do it.

My none race car??? That would b rice

Car is at Xact dyno and will be UpRev tuned tonight... will be interesting to see if we get any gains... stay tuned! haha

UPDATE: he can't find the OBD 2 port! Must be taped up under the dash somewhere

I will run the car on Sunday at PIR and update here after the weekend

My aero coach sent me some homework to do!

looks like you have a busy night!!!!!

yup... and if anyone wants to help answer some of these, welcome the input! :)

tim @ xact dyno just called... the car baselined 300 whp on the nose... unfortunately we weren't able to do any tuning because the ecu detects too much voltage without the hvac modules plugged in... we're going to have to run it again next week with that stuff plugged back in...

Tim estimates that the car is running lean and we should be able to squeeze around +20 whp out of it... if that's true, then my target weight for this car based upon my NASA time trial target of 8.7lbs/whp will be 2,784 pounds! In short, impossible!

Hey Stan, whatya' doing with that Rotrex SC unit!?

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...ril29POWER.jpg

I got the same results as you travis, 300 hp and 245 torque, just got back from an uprev tune and added 15 hp & 5 torque, good luck with your tune.
On a side note: I am really surprised with my exhaust the output I achieved.

It's sitting at the shop collecting dust until I decide what to do. Should I ask why :icon17:

PM sent

Travis, when you got your tune with the Uprev could you only tune up to 6400 rpm?, we could only Tune up to 6400 rpm instead 7500, they said we have to ratio this out and I am very unsure about this, my ECU was a new one they had to create from and they got it back really fast but that seems totally wrong since I know the 350Z people don't have to do this with their car. Any help would be nice just want to clarify so I am not going nuts. I like the software though, it seems to have lots of potential.

I don't have an uprev tune yet, this was a failed attempt... there is something wrong with the voltage levels on my car either because my "new" ECU hasn't been inititialized or because I have a few things missing such as HVAC connections... we're going to try again in a week or two once I plug a few things back in

Suggest you have your tuner speak directly with UpRev regarding your situation... doesn't make sense to me that the rpms would be limited below stock levels as you describe

I know the questions wasnt for me, but we could tune all the way up, not just to 6400. Something is wrong with your software...

Car ran very well today at PIR. Last time I was there I ran a 1:13.3 on street tires... This time I broke through 1:10 in my second session and third session posted a 1:09.5! Pretty happy with that result.

The car weighs exactly 3,175 with me + full fuel... my dyno was 300whp and optimistically I will gain +20 with a tune, which means my weight / power ratio is 10.0. That is too far off the target for "TTS" of 8.7, so I am now forced to change plans. I can either go SC and tune it for 375 or so whp, or I can try to get the car classed 1 level down to "TTA". The later option sounds very appealing because the time I turned today is a typical winning time in TTA - or close to it.

In order to move down 1 class, I have to do the following:

- switch to no larger than 275 series tires (run 275 square)
- switch from Hoosier R6 to Nitto NT01
- swap back OEM sway bars (but I can run 18K/16K spring!)
- add 100 lbs of ballast, for comp weight of 3,250 (note: can add ballast wherever I want)
- remove canards
- remove front splitter (didn't have on today anyway)
- convince NASA that my sport model Z is equivalent to a non-sport for classing b/c I swapped out the brakes, wheels and diff and those are the only real differentiators... they may require me to run without SRM, however

Another thing to note... I was pulling sustained G's today upwards of 1.30 and as a result had fuel starvation with only 1 light down from full!