Ground shipping? Not priority overnight? haha, you've waited this long, what's a few more days I guess.

That rear fan setup sounds like a winner. Can't wait to see more!

Initial shopping list for diff/trans cooling setup... I'd love to get everyone's feedback on this :tup:


1. Two (2) of these pumps - they are on sale!
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...40-524_w_m.jpg
Tilton Engineering 40-524 - Tilton Transmission and/or Differential Oil Cooler Pumps - Overview - SummitRacing.com Brand Tilton Engineering 40-524 Tilton Transmission and/or Differential Oil Cooler Flow Rate @ 12 Volts (gpm) 1-2 GPM Working Pressure (psi) 60 Temperature Range (degrees F) 0 to 265 3/8 inch NPT inlet and outlet size. These Tilton transmission/differential oil cooler pumps are positive displacement-type pumps that produce output directly proportional to motor speed. They're lightweight, self-priming pumps that may be mounted in any position up to several feet away from the tank.

2. Two (2) of these fan packs
http://www.livermoreperformance.com/...ab/Fanpack.jpg
oil cooler: transmission cooler - remote thermostat - car thermostat - transmission oil cooler - engine cooler -LivermorePerformance.com Setrab Fan Pack Coolers FP119M22I $264 Series 1, 19 row with 12 volt fan diff./gb/small hp engine pressure 2.3/2.7 btu/hr 9.5k-13.5k diff pressure change / pressure <0.5 8-1/4 dimensions 7x6x6

3. Some air ducting to connect side scoops to custom cooler box
3620-Diameter-Length Neoprene Air Duct Hose, Black
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/M/3620.JPG

4. Two (2) air ducts to diffuse the air into the cooler box
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/M/3624-PLUS.JPG
Air Inlet, Small Bumper Mount (1 Outlet) Computer Aided Design (CAD) and wind tunnel testing have been combined to produce these ducts. Attention to detail results in maximum air flow with minimal drag. They are molded from tough, high-impact black plastic. An integrally molded flange (approximately .75" wide on most ducts) makes them easy to install in body panels or air dams. The outlet nipple is sized to fit our 3" air ducting hose. Approximately 9.5" x 5" including flange.

5. A Sheet of Stainless Mesh to replace the rear valence cut out... 10 openings per inch or 6 ???
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/M/3641.JPG
Pegasus - Medium Mesh Stainless, #6 x .035 Wire (6 openings per inch) Medium Mesh Stainless, #6 x .035 Wire (6 openings per inch) Our Stainless Wire Mesh can be fabricated into almost any shape using standard sheet metal techniques. The #6 mesh size is contructed of 0.035" diameter wire with 0.132" openings, making it great for protecting oil coolers and radiators from medium objects and debris down to 0.132" diameter. To protect against larger, heavier objects as well, combine a layer of this mesh with a layer of our Coarse Mesh #4 (part #3642-Size).

Would also need a bunch of fittings and lines

Thoughts ?

So here is a shot of the crank pos. sensor. From the looks of it the factory knew this was going to be a hot spot, thats why there is all ready a cheesee heat sheild on it. Makes it easier to modify a bracket, here is what I did.

http://i49.tinypic.com/140xd1c.jpg
here is what the stock heat sheild looks like.

http://i47.tinypic.com/url38.jpg
This is what it looks like in the car.

http://i48.tinypic.com/4roshx.jpg
this is what i added to help block the heat

http://i46.tinypic.com/213r75t.jpg
Its made out of stainless should do the trick.

http://i47.tinypic.com/10crmm0.jpg
mounted up!

http://i47.tinypic.com/51tqp5.jpg

Nice job!

If you're running 2 pumps and 2 fan packs wont air boxes and all the extra ducting be a bit of an overkill for the diff?

I was thinking that one would be plenty for me, but then I'm not beating on it quite as hard as you.

Like the new improved heat shield. What did you use for spacers?

3/8 stainless rod.

You may be right... car goes back to Redline Motorsports soon and one of the things they are really good at is figuring stuff like this out... from a quick conversation with them, it might be TOO much cooling for the diff to include a fan - you do want the gear oil to get up to a certain temp... so if there is a fan, would likely need a them switch to go with it... will update on this later

Junior, nice job with the heat shield!

I dont think we need any fans. The air drawn through the car will be more than enough. A lot of race cars are not even running coolers and doing fine, so the addition to a cooler as well as a fan might be a bit much. My 0.02

you're prob right... more than happy to skip the fans!

just use these $25.00 inline 15amp thermostats. When 180F is reached it acts as an inline switch and turns it on the device(s). Can't exceed 15amps with the model posted.

Derale In-Line Fan Control Thermostat with -6 AN Fittings - 180 Degrees Derale Radiator Fans D13021
http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/gr...D/1/D13021.jpg
http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/gr.../D13021_aa.jpg

You could have three options.

1. connect the thermostat to your pumps and have them shut the pumps on and off when 180 degrees is reached and don't use any fans.

2. have the pumps running all the time and connect the thermostat only to the fans.

3. connect everything to the thermostat.

Personally I would go option 1.


__________________________________________________ _____________

As for the pumps I would go with Mocal Oil pumps. There are two main ones, one is rated at 300F and the other 350. When it comes to oil pumps the higher the temp rating the longer pump life you are gonna have.

300F oil Mocal Oil Pump:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...al_Cooler_Pump
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/i...1525_large.jpg
- flow rate 1.0- 2.0 GPM and up to 54 PSI
- weight: 3.5 lbs
- 3/8" NPT fittings
- 8-amp current draw



350F oil Mocal Oil Pump: (probably over kill)
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...al_Cooler_Pump
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/i...1973_large.jpg
- 3 GPM @ 60+ psi
- 350f temp rating
- self-priming
- quiet low vibration operation
- 10,000 hour rated bearings & motor brushes
- hardened bronze pump (spur) gear rotors
- black anodized aluminum heatsink
- nickel plated pump head
- stainless pump head fasteners
- 3/8" NPT inlet/outlet
- high temperature internal wiring
- 3 foot wiring lead with (supplied) weatherproof connectors
- rubber-isolated mounting bracket and feet
- dimensions 6.2" x 4.1" x 4.0"

great post! TY sir +1

leaning towards your option 1... will put more thought into the first pump... only need 1-2 gpm and you're right, not expecting more than 300F

Thanks man

Also, something I forgot to mention, If the thermostat is connected to the pumps the fluid won't be flowing through the actually thermostat so you will want the thermostats as close to the diff housing as possible to make sure it is an accurate reading. As long as the thermostats is the right against the housing there should only be a -5 degree difference or less I would imagine.

2 things...

1. I have the wiring harness and it looks like the right part... Thank you LOU FUSZ! will install later this week

2. Junior is thinking about offering a service where you ship him your crank sensor heat shield and he would upgrade it and send it back to you for a flate rate including shipping... we want to know if this would be worthwhile, so please go here http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ld-feeler.html and provide feedback... he would have to be a forum sponsor to offer this for real, so we are trying to figure out if it's worth the money for him to become a sponsor... thanks

:woot: Finally came in...lol

Is the CSPS anywhere near the exhaust...
 

Fathead! You did awesome! Yeah, it is close to the exhaust! What did Nissan expect?!!! Maybe with Toyoda getting his butt reamed in Congress, Nissan will build a better CSPS! Travis...people on this thread are doing their best to help you be successful...it is awesome to watch! Luck is not involved. You are getting good data! 1:04!!!:ughdance:

I agree, Greg... appreciate everyone's involvement in the build if I haven't mentioned that enough already! this is practically a forum community car (no you can't drive it! :p)

Hey all, I did shifter karts for the first time tonight! Go do this!!

Gotta Love Those Big Rears!
 

#104,
I found the info that I PMd you: "And speaking of axles, the rear axle in the Titan is a smallish variant similar to a Dana 44, where the Tundra is available with a massive 101/2-inch ring gear similar to a Corporate 14-bolt."

Source:
2008 Nissan Titan Pro4X Vs 2008 Toyota Tundra TRD - Tundra 4x4 Double Cab - 4Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

thank you sir!

more on big rears...
 

"...the 10.5 comes standard with the 5.7L engine..." URL: 2007 Toyota Tundra - First Drive - Four Wheeler Magazine The only way to be certain is to give Toyota the numbers on the axle--the code will identify R/P diameter. All of this discussion of rears brings to mind a song...Freddie Mercury's "Fat Bottomed Girls..." I don't agree with his orientation, but I do appreciate the song...and it is so appropo to ring and pinion research...I can hear it playing in the Toyota Truck Proving Grounds trailer...:ughdance:

Splitter update: Pics are kinda crappy but you get the point.
http://i50.tinypic.com/106m0cm.jpg

I have it held on with four of these stainless clamps, so taking it on and off is quick.
http://i50.tinypic.com/33bltll.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/2yuhz7o.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/14xnwjp.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/16ar51x.jpg

Welded bungs on the bumper support for the splitter rods.
http://i47.tinypic.com/2hx8sqv.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/317cg7a.jpg

Wow that splitter looks like it would be great at mowing down pedestrians. :) Is it made from SS?

The piece you see is just the bottom its 1/8 alum. I have a peice of 3/8 plastic that goes on top. Its not done yet ...........

Ok cool. I like that it can be easily detached, good design.

Junior- great work as always! thx for upping the pics

That was a key design consideration from the outset... I will transition to a trailer this year if all goes as planned, but until then it is convenient to be able to pull off the splitter... I also have one track that I frequent (Firebird) that is barely over a mile with lots of technical turns and plenty of places to go off... I plan to run there with no aero, so it'll be helpful to be able to pull the splitter quickly

Another update... the Aeromotions R2 static wing showed up today and the construction is superb - both wing and mounts... Thanks again to Forged Performance for making this happen... Junior, I'll be bringing this to you tomorrow when I come over to work on brakes, etc

In for pictures of the new wing, and hopefully soon a good review.
Car is coming along great, cannot wait to hear about your first track day.

Thanks


ALL, I updated my part out thread with some new stuff and new pricing... here http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...tml#post426319



.

We are in the home stretch... everything seems to be working... nearly everything, except CAR WON'T START!!! lol We are getting power to the system, headlights lights come on (even if you try to turn them off they won't turn off) and gauge cluster lights up as normal, but on the indicators around the start button the "locked" sign is illuminated... push the start button and nothing happens... the other peculiar thing is that the radiator fans start running

All a bit random, but it seems almost like it is in some kind of debug mode or warning mode... A couple guesses about what's going on:

- we may have destroyed a sensor or wire that was connected to the steering column... we replaced the whole thing and possibly there was a steering column lock out sensor or something that we need to recreate the signal

- perhaps we have a short somewhere or severed line, but after replacing the whole main wiring harness I doubt it

- perhaps we fried some circuit somewhere, but we've obviously been careful to do all the work with battery disconnected

- maybe there's something in the new wiring harness that is incompatible with my car... or incompatible with my key

So, any thoughts? no idea is a bad idea!! Thanks!

Thats not ture all Dragans ideas were bad.

haha... inside joke... we have a 'crazy' czech 'helping' us on the car right now.... as I said, all help/ideas are appreciated at this stage - we're not sure what is causing the prob

My guess is on the steering column lock sensor. I believe there is a sensor the gives feedback as to the position of the lock, the car wont start if the lock failed to disengage. Unfortunately I couldn't find the section that describes where the lock solenoid connects to the harness.

I got it no worries, I am gonna go fire it up!

I don't think that's the case. If its the same sensor that I am thinking of then I completely removed it when I had my aftermarket wheel on for SEMA and the car started and drove fine. Just the VDC and slip lights were continually on.

You only disconnected the airbag, not the steering lock. You have to remove the steering column to remove the lock mechanism.

we're working it now and hope to have good news by end of day

Travis with the key in the on position (dash lights illuminated) is your check engine light on?

Typically, if you KOEO and the fans blast away, the CEL light will NOT be illuminated. This indicates that a critical harness or sensor is not connected or bad. a fuse is blown, or you have a short (which probably caused a fuse to blow).

After doing this basic test, it's time to bring in someone with a Consult III, which will immediately uncover the problem.

Now that is a splitter. Get me 10 orders for it and you've got yourself a carbon splitter :)

Sharif, thanks for checking in... We're going to try restoring the steering column lock sensor first, and if that doesn't do it we'll proceed with checking for blown fuses, improperly connected harnesses, and status of CEL light, and report back. -T