There seem to be problems with the way how AAM set up the BW wastegates.

The AAM kit makes use of Borg Warner EFR 7163 turbo's. These are internally wastegated with with a 36mm wastegate flap. BW offers three types of wastegate canisters with the following base pressures:

Low: ~6psi
Medium: ~11 psi
High: ~17 psi

Then what they did (I heard..) to make them fit due to clearance issues, is that they modified and shortened the wastegate rod. This causes the preload to be higher, which causes the base pressure to rise. Also, the boost is harder to controll and the wastegate flap to have less travel and not to open as far as it should.


Well, all of this already gives me goosebumps because it sounds like some kind of hackjob designed by idiots.

Does anyone know from a reliable source if the above story is true? Especially on stock internals this could be problematic because the boost might be harder to controll and the wastegate to crack open later than desired.

If its true I foresee two options:
1) change the stock "medium" wastegate canisters with the "low"
2) go external wastegated
3) the above is a ghost story and multiple people run medium canisters on low boost without problems..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...821abecd93.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8d215b1b35.jpg

I have also heard about that issue. I have a local friend who has the kit at reasonable boost levels and so far he has no problems. I would go with the low canister for a stock engine imo.

WOOP WOOP...ITS DA SOUND OF DA POLICE...

Did a vinyl wrap on the car for an event. Later in july i will go to the Zandvoort racetrack (former 1970s F1 circuit) and take children with a life expectation of <5 more years for a spin, to give them a great day. The week after I will also do a 3 day event driving through 5 European countries with 100 sport cars.

Wanted the Z to stand out a bit more. What do yall think? Just waiting for my blue LED's :-)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...683e70906c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0339da4e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a457223b60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e0c26764da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4a39c70fd9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3b9e6c6d43.jpg

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Woop woop!

THAT'S THE SOUND OF THE BEAST!

Haha! Great stuff! Car looks great and it sounds like you're sharing the fun! Kudos!

Put the Zspeed clutch in last week and drove trouble free for about 300 miles.

As of yesterday i get a squeaking sound from the clutch pedal. When pushing it completely down to the floor, at the last 1.5 inch of movement you can feel some resistance and hear a squeek. It doesnt feel smooth anymore.

Anything suggestions? Maybe we forgot to grease the pilot bearing?

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Wow im literally getting this exact same issue with my cmak!! At first it was only occasional squeaking, then as a few weeks went by i'd then noticed sometimes i could hear and feel clicking sounds in the clutch peddle when i slowly release it..didnt happen often

fast foward to now and both have gotten worse and it happens pretty much every time i use the clutch :shakes head: best would be to ask joe, see what he says, i havent called yet since time zone difference and its also stupid expensive to call from where i am...... mind you, mine is also fairly new too got it around may-june nor have i put much miles on it since!

So a short update on the clutch: it was an installation error.

The clutch bearing slides over a part which is mounted with two screws. We forgot to put loctite on them and one of them came loose. We removed the gearbox and fixed the issue. As of then I did two trackdays, a 2000 mile rally through europe and a lap on the Nürburgring Nordschleife. All is well :)

Man you should of posted that yesterday!

I just installed my new engine last night and i had a very similar issue with my cmak but never bothered to check the transmission side of things. * hoping that it's not those screws that are causing my noise


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Alright so a bit of an update on my side. I waited until summer was over and started ordering parts for the build:

- Borg warner low boost actuators
- Z1 34 row oil cooler with thermo plate
- Z1 differential bushings
- Z1 engine mounts
- Z1 transmission mount
- AEM boost meter
- AEM AFR meter
- Ecutek/bluetooth
- Haltech solenoid
- 4 bar OMNI sensor


Just waiting a few weeks till all will come in, and will then start building around newyears. Super excited!

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Winter projects. :tup:

You should go ahead and get the subframe inserts too. They're relatively cheap and since you'll be there with the diff bushing install might as well.

Im afraid that i will lose too much comfort putting them in..

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You won't notice too much of a difference in the ride.

Agreed!

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I must suck at searching, because for sure there already is a "how to drop the engine" how-to... I just cant find it. Anyone can point me in the right direction?

I did not watch it so I have no idea if it is hot garbage or not but here is a vid from This Thread.
Using google to search the forum:
Search results

Thanks for that, it was helpful!

Question: here in europe the big splash guard under the engine is really expensive. Shipping of the Z1 plate from US to Europe will be over 500usd.

Have we seen creative solutions mounting the 2015+ Nismo front bumper without using a new nismo underguard? I will be able to get the fender splash guards for just 90 usd so thats fine.

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Check and see if there are any forum members who are military stationed in Europe... shipping it to them would be cheaper since they have APO/FPO boxes then they could just use DHL or whoever from their location to you. I'd have helped you out but I moved back to the States last Spring.

Thanks! Anyone reading this stationed in for example Belgium or Germany - hit me up!

By the way, did anyone already make brake duct inserts for the 2015+ Nismo bumper? I am upgrading to this bumper, but I dont want to run LEDS. Instead, I want to use the cutouts for the LEDS to make brake cooling.

Nobody on the brakeducts?

Btw.. progression on the build here..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a1c731263b.jpg

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Turbos are on. Just trying to find a way how to route the power cable to the starter motor... my driver side turbo is in the way!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f0b09e82cc.jpg

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Right side up. :)
https://i.imgur.com/CVNIk1Z.jpg?1

Warning!!

I almost lost my Z tonight due to a fire. With the aam kit, you have to remove the plastic harness around the starter motor cable, for the cable to be more flexible and move around the compressor housing.

When fitting the transmission and fiddling the starter motor into position tonight, the rubber protection sleeve around the starter motor cable rubbed against the turbo compressor housing, causing a shortcut in the system. All of a sudden I noticed smoke from the engine bay, and luckily we could act fast and disconnect the ground cable on the battery. If we kept working underneath the car.. it might had been too late to save the car.

So, advice is to very well check your clearance and add extra protection..

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Holy chit! Glad you and the car are OK!

Agreed! That sounds very scary!

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That would have been heart breaking. :eek:

Yeah.. im a very detail orientated person when it comes to working on the car. I just also forgot to remove the battery again after i put it on to flash the ecu. And when you mount the transmission, everything wiggles and tilts a bit, which caused the clearance issue.

My plan is to check the fuse boxes tonight. The cable is insulated again already.

Anything else to check before plugging the battery back on?

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Your shorts right before you make contact with the battery and terminal. :icon17:

Alright, i didnt get to start the car. Spent most of the time i had today on making sure my electronics are OK. Spent another hour on understanding how to connect the CJM fuel system. I wish CJ just put a drawing in the manual, much clearer than the pictures. Especially if english is not your first or second language. But i think its connected correctly now (see attachment)


Put the battery back in, and no weird signs so far. But starting the car will be the real test.

Because i still have 55 quarts of g12 plus longlife pink coolant, thats what i put in. Its silicate free, which i think is important.



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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c9cb8793f.jpg

Which CJM return did you get?

Hi,

I got the CJM S1E? I think.. its the fuel return kit without the fuel rails.

Car is running now. Currently in the process of tuning, and solving all the little gremlins along the way hehe.

Good to hear. :tup:

My build is finished!

Finally, after a lot of months the build is finished. I posted here on the forum about a few issues that i encountered during the process. Mainly concerned around knock. We found that the ECU sometimes "thinks" that it hears knock after flashing it with EcuTek. When you remove the 2 connectors to the ECU (in the passenger side footwell) and reconnect them after a minute - it's gone.

Another issue was the water hose on the driver side. This new hose on the AAM kit runs just 1-2 inches above the exhaust manifold. It worked well for a few months but then started leaking. I replaced it, rerouted it and protected it with firesleeve.

Then at 11 psi, my clutch let go. This was my fault, I had the Z Speed easy street clutch, which is fine up to ~400wtq but can't do anything above that. I replaced the disc with a ACT heavy duty 6 puck and this is holding up great.

So, the current status is that I am running 4 boost maps, being: 6 psi / 8-9 psi / 10-11 psi / 12-13 psi. I didn't prioritize putting it on the dyno yet, but I guess that i am well above 500whp. I did a 60-130mph pass in just under 7 seconds at 6.93. For reference; a Q60 with tune and bolt ons does 9 seconds, a stock GTR around 7.8s, a Dodge Charger hellcat around 7.6 seconds and a 911 turbo s around 7.2 seconds.

For now, I'm enjoying the car as is on 93 octane and will probably just do minor upgrades here and there to perfect it. Drove it again on the Nürburgring and had a blast, 187mph on the autobahn on the way back was fun too.

I have some video's and photo's on Instagram: @Boosted_Fairlady - feel free to follow me there as well!
I will post the dyno results as soon as I can be arsed to go there ;-)

https://youtu.be/KPsiA27RXLQ

https://i.ibb.co/dDn69VQ/fdf.jpg


Oh, and special shout out to:

- Seb @ SpecialtyZ. So much patience, amazing customer service, never got annoyed by my questions. We went through many iterations to get the car where it is today. Thank you!

- Joe @ Z Speed: Very responsive, good advice, knows his stuff and fast and reliable shipping.

Great job and enjoyed following you and talking to you on Instagram. I am going to hold you to your word about meeting you at the Ring some day. It has to be amazing in as you blow by those six figure German persuasion sports cars.

Made some good business decisions lately, which opened up the chance the have a look at the 370's big brother: Godzilla.

Drove the R35 yesterday, a facelift DBA model with tune and exhaust. I liked the sound and the easy power delivery and enjoyed the drive. Unfortunately it didnt bring what I expected, although it's a very capable car, it's really more of a GT than I thought it would be. In the Z I really have to work and pay attention to put down the power. The automatic gearbox of the GTR together with the 4wd system makes it so much easier to drive it fast - that it's almost too easy.

Conclusion: it was nice trying out the GTR, but I decided to stick to the 370 - it matches what I look for in a weekend car much better.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a04138ea4a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f9a9034ee0.jpg

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Dont know why those pictures got turned 90 degrees.

Anyways, since I decided I will stick with the Z, I'll continue upgrading it ofcourse.

The wishlist of 2020 consists of:

- Better suspension, preferably something adaptive. So far I have only found Tein with their EDFC. Any other brands that provide this option?

- Improve cooling: IAT's get high on the nurburgring, so does my water and oil temp. 34 row cooler and stock radiator aren't cutting it and I need to find a way to improve this

- Perhaps methanol, I'm looking for increasing safety measures driving the car on the stock block to make sure all stays in one piece.


Currently getting some paint work done. The hood, front fenders, front bumper and rear bumper are getting a new fresh paint layer.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0ddae558c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ebf760b22a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6b52a8c358.jpg

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You must be using the same camera has BettyZ. :facepalm:

Everything sanded down. Will go for paint on Monday.

I decided not to have the OEM colour scheme on the bumpers, but to keep the blacked out look it will be just magnetic black and matte black accents. Also covered the headlight washer holeshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6e55034825.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3491ce6bdb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...77f1f36536.jpg

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For cooling I would look at getting Trackspec hood vents. I think he was running a 20% off deal over the holidays. You need to open up your front bumper similar to what Z1 has done with their time attack car. The problem with getting a triple by pass radiator is that you are adding more area that needs to get airflow and to it, and you still have to move that air through and around to the intercooler.

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I have to take the engine out to fix a manifold issue. And whilst i have it out I am considering a light engine build.

- Brian crower sportsman rods with ARP2000 bolts
- Wiseco 95.5mm pistons 9.0 compression
- ARP L19 headstuds
- Cometic MLS headgasket
- New OEM Nissan gasket set
- New rod bearings (do I have to check the numbers on the crank?)


The goal would be to be able to run 13-17 psi without having to be afraid of bending a rod or snapping a piston ring.

Any feedback on the parts list?

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