The kit will be great... (i installed a cobra kit on mine). But rob still had me swap out the pads and fluid...

Without the proper fluid, it will start to boil, and cause brake fade after a few laps. The pad compound may will also overheat. I would guess you're rotors are fine. The reason I stated the rotors though, is becaused drilled and slotted could start to crack under high heat.

I think most companies put "track" brake packages on the car (big calipers and rotors), but give them steet pads as they assume most wont be hammering the brakes as much. I wouldnt want to drive around town with track pads either... they work better when the heat up... and can make alot of noise when cold... and can produce lots of dust.

Also its nice to have an extra set of pads for track, as it will keep your street pads in good condition.



FWIW... i autoX'd on reg pads, GT brakes, and reg brake fluid... and I am not experianced in it at all, but it seemed to be ok. HPDE are different though, much faster speeds, and harder braking.

Mightybobo (rob) is far more educated on this then I am though... he would know the best setup for you. I just do what he tells me :D

I'm sure Steve knows a lot too.

That's what the thermostatic plate adapter is, it works in the same fashion as your coolant thermostat, opening only when it reaches a certain temperature

Pulled from their website

if you're going to track, bare minimal would be to swap out for "better" pads, there are such thing as street/light track pads, the main difference between them all is how well they handle/transfers heat. Your typical "awesome" track pads will suck for DD, as they may not bite unless they're heated up, squeel under normal driving, dust like a mofo. However if you're not a hardcore track guy, again, there are in between pads, which are better than factory, but not as hardcore as your track pads

Swapping out the fluid is definitely important, as mentioned above. If you're going to do this, you might as well go with ss lines. If I remember correctly the Akebono's have hardlines (I might be wrong) but the standard rubber lines swell up when the fluid gets hot. SS lines will give you a much better feel for your brakes overall, good upgrade for street or track driven car

Lastly, rotors; if you want the bling, I would typically recommend slotted ONLY, drilled slotted.. too many nightmares about cracking since there's so little surface area. Baller bling + performance, J-hooks, but those are extremely expensive. That's what we install on our GT-Rs along with Endless MX-72 brake pads when customers are dued for new rotor/pads, as this combo is still cheaper than factory replacement (from the dealership) than outperforms it by a lot.

But it doesn't hurt to track it on your stock set up. Learn your car first, then figure out the weakpoints as you learn to drive your car :) more fun this way!

Good thing I don't complain about gas prices. :tiphat:

Even with the thermostatic plate adapter a lot of people still need to block the cooler off. The thermostatic plates are never 100% closed. They always allow for some flow to avoid thermostatic shock when it opens fully.

Usually, when "closed," there is still around 10% flow, which in winter is enough to require a physical blocking plate for the cooler itself.

I know a little bit about chassis setup. ;)

Chevy fan boy here....so well done :tiphat:

My gramps has the Hybrid 6.0l V8 Silverado. That thing pulls harder than the Z when that battery kicks in.

I agree with these points. For safety, upgrade your brake pads and brake fluid. So you can get uninterrupted track time (well, unless you are fast enough for fuel starve), add an oil cooler.

Stock everything else is 100% fine and a great starting point.

Regarding rotors, there's a reason why so many track guys stick to OEM blank rotors. They deal with heat much better than slotted or drilled rotors do (don't track on drilled rotors!)

Thanks.

:roflpuke2::roflpuke2:

YOU can afford it sir...:icon17:

And as far as my 2 tires, they're gonna fit in the honda s2000 (with passenger seat removed:tup:)

:tup::tup:

This is really cool.

Khoi, man you are always right dude..:icon17:

when i came down there 2 weeks ago i didnt block mine off. the whole trip down it was only like 35 degrees out my oil temp was like 145. i know thats lower than optimal temp but not bad for no time to mack a blocking plate on a 34 row in freezing air lol