Intake selection(Takeda Long Tube Vs Stillen Gen 3)
 

Hi Guys,


I am sure this question has been asked before, I was looking at the Stillen Gen 3 and I am came across the Takeda long tube. Wondering if anyone is using the Takeda and why choose over Stillen.

They only thing putting me off Stillen is the fact that you have some cutting to do, where as Takeda fits in without modifications.

Any sight or advise would be high appreciated.

I think Stillen is the only intake with "proven gains." Also the cutting required is very minimal, if even that. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

I have the Takeda and power coated the tubes OEM black.

The Takeda is a cleaner setup, the mafs are on the bottom of the intake pipes, that's virtually the only difference.

Dare I say the Takeda take longer to install despite requiring no cutting because you have to line up the silicon hoses. Also no risk to damage AC lines with Takeda due to silicon pipes in that area versus aluminum.

Also prefer Takeda b/c 1 filter (dry) over 2 oiled KN style filters.


OP flip a coin and that's the intake you'll buy because that's about the only way to decide IMO

^this guy is borderline retarded (LOL, I kid)

Stillen G3 FTW!!!

IIRC the whp difference between the 2 is ~5whp and I like Takeda's "no cutting" philosophy.

Also, Greddy thought Takeda's design was good enough to copy and adopt as their own.

But Stillen now has dry intake filters available now too

:iagree:

I guess its all coming down to personal preference, I was leaning towards the Stillen all along but I saw the Takeda with no cutting and cheaper in price. "Driftomodachi" mentioned Greddy.

I have had no issues with my Takeda intake. Looks great, easy install, saved a few bucks in my pocket.

What do you mean the only intake with proven gains? pls explain that statement.

Common Andrew - All he is saying is it is a toss up between the two given each pros and cons.

I must say that if people don't forget the silicone jacket to wrap around the AC lines, they'd be ok. I'd get the Stillen but was convinced by a reputable shop explaining to me the differences, ended up with Takeda, and did not have any regrets. Single, easy to clean filter does it for me.

To me, it boils down to personal preference. I have not had any issues with my Takeda's nor have I heard of any issues from anyone who has them once installed. With Stillens, simply make sure you install the silicone sleeve to keep the tubes from rubbing directly onto your AC lines and you're golden. No one could see the cutting anyway so it should not be an issue. I don't see why cutting the opening wider is such a big deal when it should not.

Raf, look at what's in white, I just like giving dislimn shít as much as I can, lol

CAI = $100 per horse power. Nuf said.

Takeda long tube here no complaints. Straight bolt on, no cutting, and cheaper than stillen G3. Fairly close in filter placement, so not enough of a horsepower difference for me to care. Look at both and pick what you like.

4 positive reviews for Takeda. I guess that solves it for me. Too much drama with Stillen A) cutting B) coating AC lines. I am sure its good but is it worth all this trouble ?
Takeda it is as it seems like we have more votes for Takeda.

Every CAI I've installed on my various vehicles in the past has required some kind of minor cutting. Not that big a deal. For the record, I do not have either intake...I have post MAF tubes. Just sayin'.

I made the same WHP numbers with Takedas and my Gen 3's, Takdea FTW for being over a $100 less. $362 shipped is way better than the Gen 3 prices and you can install them WITHOUT removing the front bumper

How you do that? And where did you order the Takeda for that price? Thanks

how do I know what, I had dynos done ,same shop, same dyno same weather, Amazon has them for that price, and WOW less now 332$ shipped

Amazon.com: aFe TA-3016P Takeda Cold Air Intake System for Infiniti G37 Coupe 2008-2011 V6-3.7L: Automotive

You're blowing all of that out of proportion. The "cutting" is five minutes with a Dremel. Wrapping the AC lines is simple too. Don't let those be the reasons you don't buy the Stillen.

op you mean takeda wrong tube..

I bought the stillen gen3's and between cutting a little flange on both sides and wrapping the ac lines,it took about 5 mins. That being said,I could see some peeps being anal about the cutting. Some people don't want permanent pieces missing out of there car,and that's fair enough. Me,it didn't matter about a extra little slot. Now if the takedas are throwing down roughly the same horsepower and at a cheaper price,it does make sense to go with them. But it will take more than one post with just one person claiming the same horsepower without dyno sheets to convince me. No offense Anmvq

the filter can be dry or oiled it has changed. in all honesty does it really matter? you can always swap them (on stillen you can also order dry's).

^

I have 0 shop experience and very little mechanical work. 5 doller dremel bit and it literally took me maybe 10 miuntes for both sides to dremel out. If you're using a drill bit dremel you probably don't even need to protect your ac lines during the job... (I was OCD)

I used a piece of weather strip in between the ac lines and intakes. My install job left a small gap so there is a bit of pressure pressing it down but it was not resting on the intakes.


I can't speak for Takeda's gains but in canadia I was checking prices... they were about the same price with Takeda's being a slight cheaper (like 50 bucks) but I chose the stillen as their is multiple non-stillen verifications of gains.

Choice is yours at the end of the day.

mishuko read about the a/c line clearance and just double check that yours is not rubbing the intake. intake tubes move around quite a bit so i'd give it a good 10mm of clearance or coil wrap it. my G runs stillens and it's about 5mm from the closest ac line. i wrapped the ac line. no issue.

also search elbow and get an extra before it cracks.

I meant how did you do it without removing the front bumper?
Thanks for the link!:tup:

Checked the link it says doesn't fit the 370z.:ugh2:


Amazon.com: aFe TA-3016P Takeda Cold Air Intake System for Infiniti G37 Coupe 2008-2011 V6-3.7L: Automotive

It's true. The G37 model will NOT fit on a 370z. Ask me how I know this :mad:

yea I made sure it was about 5mm clearance before putting a piece of weather strip in. I did check it after about 1000 km with them and everything was still good!

what's this elbow you speak of? for the ac line?

The knock on the Takeda is that the silicon tube is restricted by the hole it's pushed through. Well, just like with the Stillen, you can dremel out the hole so that it's bigger, the hose still sits in there securely so there will be no rubbing. Basically, if you're buying the Stillen you're paying quite a bit more money for a few horsepower which just doesn't make sense to me. Comes down solely to personal preference, it's your car, it's your money, I'm not gonna PAY extra for a Stillen sticker under my hood.

Stillen $500

Takeda $360

~5whp difference

Do the math

I don't jump on any bandwagon just because other people do it. I base my choices on research, cost and power gains. Takeda wins in my book

No problem at all man,

Here my sheet, Difference in the runs is the light RED has HFC's-Takeda's and NO tune, dark red , is Tune Gen 3's and stock cats.

I will have soon a sheet with the Takedas HFC's and tune,

Found a way to install the G3 without any cutting or removing the front bumper.

Looks like a bull :icon17:

looks like 2 birdies to me, madwi.

Looooool Andrew. You got me.

If you race get G3s...if not get silicone manifold tubes and K&N drop in filters or equivalent. Several hundred dollars cheaper and only 5 to 10whp difference. The big plus is you don't have to remove your front bumper to service the filters!

Uhhhh :wtf2:

Cool. I race from light to light on my dailery commute, so very happy I got that G3 installed :driving:

He's right. I am not shelling out 500+ for 10 hp. That's stupid. That will just about cover a clutch and lightened flywheel. If you go FI later, you don't have to sell jack and loose your butt.

DavidZ, no need to hide in the closet. You just got to know what you are chasing! If you are only going to do a CAI then I would go with long tubes, they will give the best bang for the buck but if you add exhaust and or test pipes then it's a game of diminishing returns. With full bolt on N/A you can expect 320whp + or - 5whp! Just go to the exhaust section and read all you want. Some have made 330 or so but they are in the minority. With full bolt ons and short tube or silicone tubes the average is about 315whp + or -. Those numbers are fine on paper but really most people won't be able to realize the difference just in driving and really even more so racing! There a whole lot that goes with getting everything out of the Z...mostly driver related then tires and suspension setup.

I did both these setups when I was N/A and it was an expensive learning curve...Spooler got it right, if you have any plans to go FI then save your money and spend what you can afford on supporting mods first.