Mishimoto Thermostat
 

Anyone this out?

Kenny's370z and I are looking to try it out.

If anyone has experience with these please share.

I think a lot of people do have experience with it
A lot of people say on a NA car it isn't going to help, AND if your coolant doesn't heat up enough your car will run extra rich and you'll get a CEL... I only know of one person who has installed this on a NA car and hasn't had a CEL...

Ill sell u mine for fifty bucks plus shipping. I bought it thinking my old one was the issue and it turned out to be something different had it in car long enough for it to warm up and then redrained it. Let me know.

what was your culprit if it wasnt the stat ?

i can tell you that the factory water gauge will reside on normal once my aftermarket temp gauge reaches around 148 so it may or may not throw a cel beings how the thermo starts opening up at 150.just depends on how cool it will allow the engine to run.if the water starts coming down below 148,then there is a good chance the cel will pop.

We used this in conjunction with water wetter and a higher pressure cap to help remedy some cooling issues observed on the 2011 NISMO we did. He had a road trip to Texas in which he didn't have a significant over heating issue, but he did say the temp gauge was a few dots above normal in slow traffic after have a little fun with the GReddy kit. Just those basic mods rectified everything.

Haven't had the chance to see how the heat works yet though!

Thanks,
Alex Goodwin
AlexG@motionlabtuning.com

The car was NA or FI?

If the car is NA but modded, it generally will run hotter since more power's being made, so the thermostat in that situation won't overdo it's duty right?

That might be true, but nothing near FI... I don't think your car will reach operating temps, or stay there with this thermostat on a NA car... Maybe if you turn the car on, wait one minute for the juices to start flowing then beat on it immediately?

As a side note; has anyone upgraded their radiator to the CSF one? I see Z1 Motorsports is offering one.

I would think that if you live somewhere that actually gets hot (Texas) and ran this one during the summer only you'd be good. If you DD your car though, probably a bad idea.

I plan on doing the CSF that has the condenser delete and seeing if I think I still need the stat, basically if I still see temp spikes under load while on the track/autox.

We have ran the Mishimoto tstat in quite a few of our customers' NA cars with no check engine lights.

As for the CSF radiators, they are great products but probably overkill for a NA car. We use these radiators on our TT applications.

I have a 25ROW Oil cooler and an UpRev fan mod, I still can climb to 190-200 degrees when driving hard and/or being stuck in traffic.

Based on the above would that warrant the mishimoto and/or radiator?

I bet when it gets hot in the summer again my temps might fly higher, dunno.

I tried a mishimoto thermo in my mild mod'd Evo IX and it ran like crap. It would open up too soon and the car would stay in open loop keeping the temp way down and causing bad gas mileage (dropped from 18mpg to 12mpg). On the freeway, the car would warm up better, but once off the gas and cruizing, the temps would drop a lot.

I know it is not a 370, but should be the same principal.

:iagree: :tiphat:

My case in point

Thank you for that info; I'll hold off the thermostat until more people with NA 370z run them and see if they're safe or not.

the evo dont have a head design like the 370 where the vvel dumps alot of heat into the engine.im running a modified oem stat right now with one spring cut until my mishimoto stat comes in and my water wants to run 160-180 and my oil is running 190-205 and my gas is 19.7 with quite a bit of spirited driving.this is only temp because it does take to long to warm up when the ambient temps are in the 50's.but as i said,the water dots sit where they are suppose to once my water gets to 148 and i dont speculate im going to throw any cels with the 150 stat unless the 150 stat will allow the water temp to drop below 150f.

Yes, totally different heads, but still the same principal behind the operation of thermos. What deg would you guess your mod'd oem thermo is rated at? IIRC, the mishimoto is rated at 150deg to open. Since the Zs run a little hotter than others, I am not sure if the 150deg would be too cold for a DD to warm up properly. Just my 0.02.....

I'll be installing mine soon. Im in constant 85-95+ degree whether though so I'm hoping this thermostat will help keep me at 180 or so cause I heat up fast with just DDing.

You don't need it unless you're in Saudi Arabia... In fact they come with a SLIGHTLY lower temp thermostat...

But even TX's 100+ degrees isn't enough to warrant this thermostat (again, maybe if you're Sh0velman who tracks the crap out of his car, then yeah)



If you want a little lower without risking a CEL or running rich with crappy timing, buy a OEM Infiniti 2008 G37 thermostat

EDIT: BAM, done deal: http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/cata...tat_model:G37_

Someone is welcome to correct me, but the 150 degree thermostat means its FULLY open at 150 vs stock 180...
Which means the water temp probably won't reach 150 unless you beat on it because the thermostat will still be open at a lower temperature

the 180 starts opening at 180 and what i have read on this forum its not fully open until 200f so the 150 should be wide open at 170

You are correct sir! So, with the thermo open all the time, it is constantly circulating the coolant keeping the temps below the 150deg rating. A good way to test it (or even see if you suspect a faulty thermo), warm a pot of water to 150deg (or whatever deg rating on the thermo) and drop it in. You will see it open and how far it opens.

Edit, above is right, thermos usually fully open around 20deg past the rated temp. So, the 150 would fully open around 170, however it is still partially open at 150, causing coolant to still circulate, although not at full capacity. So, for DD around town, the car will stay around 160 unless on the freeway or pushing it hard on the streets. That is when it would get up to full opperating temps. I could actually see my temp needle moving in my Evo when I pushed it, then let off for a while.

I track my car every week, and after 1 run down the drag strip my temps reach 220+ to where I have to let the car sit for a long while. With our hot humid weather and my spirited driving. I needed this.

^
If you track that much, then it might be good for you. It will be during DD around town that you will notice how it is keeping your car in open loop and lowering your mpgs.

Anyone installed this one off of a g37?

I have a mishimoto sitting in my room.

you dont have to beat on it for it to warm up and go past 200 even with my modded stat.remember this car has a 1 row 15mm radiator on a performance engine.if it would have had the correct cooling capacity on this car then i wouldnt be having to go through extreme lengths to keep it cool which is a royal pita.

now if you drive like grandma,then disregard all of my replies even though the water temp is still going to rise at idle or in traffic with stop and go.especially if you dont have the uprev fan control.with the 180 stat,my water wants to run at 192 and jump to 200 at idle.i have also read the ecu starts cutting timing when water hits 190.so with the oem stat,you dont have very long from a cold start before the ecu starts to cut timing,or power.my car runs great when my water is at 160-170.wish i could keep it there 100% of the time after initial warm up .

This is true; when in traffic there's no ventilation you just sit there and bake. I will def put this thermostat on the car if you won't throw any CEL or run into anything unsavory when you do your test man.

mine should be here next week after i get back from the mountains and i'll let you know.

I am hoping it works out for you bro! I was reading a few threads on here about people that had them. Some said good to go and some said got the CEL. Guess it all comes down to location/mods/use ect......
Anyways, good luck!

thanks ! me too man,me too.

When you get it, do the hot water test to see the true opening temp. I am curious if they do start ot open at 150, or it is just claimed. Mine before started to open 5 degrees cooler than specs.

I'm still kinda leery of Mishimoto build quality. Personally, I'd go with the Infiniti thermostat. If the thermostat fails closed, you've got a serious problem on your hands. Maybe they're better than they were in the past, but I'm not going to be the guinea pig.

If you're tracking it, sure... And you're running a bottle, you have TOTALLY different needs
:iagree:
Sir, you are 100% correct :tiphat:
The temp is when it OPENS and it is fully open at about 20 degrees about the rated temp:
What does the thermostat do and what typically... — Yahoo! Autos

But I do wonder how quickly that spring loses it's... springiness??? If the maintenance manual suggests you change the radiator cap every 30k miles, why not the thermostat, it has has roughly the same design, no?

But a 150 degree thermostat still feels low. I believe the car "wants" to be at 180... And has anyone ACTUALLY confirmed the engine pulling timing once the water temp reaches 190, I have seen a lot of recent speculation because "a guy at the dealershit told me"

It would seem REALLY stupid to me that Nissan would put a 180 degree thermostat only for the car to start slowing itself down 10 degrees later...

And different front bumper for better cooling FTW! Not enough air reaches anything in front of out cars
I'll be the guinea pig, I think I'll buy it and install it Friday, and I'll keep you guys updated

What bumper do you suggest?

I am seeing huge power drops because of coolant temp (10 degrees = 4 timing = 15-20hp on my car) and spikes to ~230 during AutoX events.

I think the CSF radiator is exactly what I need to get that under control... Unless you have other ideas? I'm definitely open to suggestions!

I'm planning on doing that in December, I'll report back when it is done.

If you are tracking the car, then I would definitely recommend the CSF radiator and the t-stat. Whenever you are ready to pull the trigger, we can get them for you since we are direct with CSF. :tiphat:

Just tossing this in there....

You can run a 350Z VQ35DE Thermostat on a 370Z as well. There are many more options for the older 350Z thermostats than for the 370Z's VQ37VHR engine. The only difference is that you will have to remove the Pipe fitting from the thermostat and install a plug.

I made a batch of Low Temp 350Z thermostats for a 370Z owner by knocking out the pipe and tapping it for a NPT pipe plug. Sealed perfect with no leaks. Some of the 350Z thermostats open up slightly lower. Mishimotor 350Z themostats open up at 62° vs. the 370Z model at 66°.

i decided against the mishimoto and went with this stat.glad i did as i dont track the car and my temp stays around 170.i endorse this stat !