Thank you for that info; I'll hold off the thermostat until more people with NA 370z run them and see if they're safe or not.

the evo dont have a head design like the 370 where the vvel dumps alot of heat into the engine.im running a modified oem stat right now with one spring cut until my mishimoto stat comes in and my water wants to run 160-180 and my oil is running 190-205 and my gas is 19.7 with quite a bit of spirited driving.this is only temp because it does take to long to warm up when the ambient temps are in the 50's.but as i said,the water dots sit where they are suppose to once my water gets to 148 and i dont speculate im going to throw any cels with the 150 stat unless the 150 stat will allow the water temp to drop below 150f.

Yes, totally different heads, but still the same principal behind the operation of thermos. What deg would you guess your mod'd oem thermo is rated at? IIRC, the mishimoto is rated at 150deg to open. Since the Zs run a little hotter than others, I am not sure if the 150deg would be too cold for a DD to warm up properly. Just my 0.02.....

I'll be installing mine soon. Im in constant 85-95+ degree whether though so I'm hoping this thermostat will help keep me at 180 or so cause I heat up fast with just DDing.

You don't need it unless you're in Saudi Arabia... In fact they come with a SLIGHTLY lower temp thermostat...

But even TX's 100+ degrees isn't enough to warrant this thermostat (again, maybe if you're Sh0velman who tracks the crap out of his car, then yeah)



If you want a little lower without risking a CEL or running rich with crappy timing, buy a OEM Infiniti 2008 G37 thermostat

EDIT: BAM, done deal: http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/cata...tat_model:G37_

Someone is welcome to correct me, but the 150 degree thermostat means its FULLY open at 150 vs stock 180...
Which means the water temp probably won't reach 150 unless you beat on it because the thermostat will still be open at a lower temperature

the 180 starts opening at 180 and what i have read on this forum its not fully open until 200f so the 150 should be wide open at 170

You are correct sir! So, with the thermo open all the time, it is constantly circulating the coolant keeping the temps below the 150deg rating. A good way to test it (or even see if you suspect a faulty thermo), warm a pot of water to 150deg (or whatever deg rating on the thermo) and drop it in. You will see it open and how far it opens.

Edit, above is right, thermos usually fully open around 20deg past the rated temp. So, the 150 would fully open around 170, however it is still partially open at 150, causing coolant to still circulate, although not at full capacity. So, for DD around town, the car will stay around 160 unless on the freeway or pushing it hard on the streets. That is when it would get up to full opperating temps. I could actually see my temp needle moving in my Evo when I pushed it, then let off for a while.

I track my car every week, and after 1 run down the drag strip my temps reach 220+ to where I have to let the car sit for a long while. With our hot humid weather and my spirited driving. I needed this.

^
If you track that much, then it might be good for you. It will be during DD around town that you will notice how it is keeping your car in open loop and lowering your mpgs.

Anyone installed this one off of a g37?

I have a mishimoto sitting in my room.

you dont have to beat on it for it to warm up and go past 200 even with my modded stat.remember this car has a 1 row 15mm radiator on a performance engine.if it would have had the correct cooling capacity on this car then i wouldnt be having to go through extreme lengths to keep it cool which is a royal pita.

now if you drive like grandma,then disregard all of my replies even though the water temp is still going to rise at idle or in traffic with stop and go.especially if you dont have the uprev fan control.with the 180 stat,my water wants to run at 192 and jump to 200 at idle.i have also read the ecu starts cutting timing when water hits 190.so with the oem stat,you dont have very long from a cold start before the ecu starts to cut timing,or power.my car runs great when my water is at 160-170.wish i could keep it there 100% of the time after initial warm up .

This is true; when in traffic there's no ventilation you just sit there and bake. I will def put this thermostat on the car if you won't throw any CEL or run into anything unsavory when you do your test man.

mine should be here next week after i get back from the mountains and i'll let you know.

I am hoping it works out for you bro! I was reading a few threads on here about people that had them. Some said good to go and some said got the CEL. Guess it all comes down to location/mods/use ect......
Anyways, good luck!