Those T connections look fine as long as they're not leaking

I guess this time I will get it right :)
Do you think the problem chould be this (two T Joints) ?
I marked them 1 & 2


http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/667...problem.th.jpg

No they are not leaking. But In the manual that I got from Motordyne they only have 1 T joints. could it be more than one way to install.
Sorry guys I don't know too much about mechanics. :'''(

In the manual, do they run a second T joint at the front side of the intake manifold? I believe Tony made a configuration change to the hose layout on the later kits.

You should have (1) T in the rear of the manifold and (1) in the front which is is pictured below.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1342306651

Since there is no vacuum port on the front of the M370 manifold, the "T" connection in the rear provides a port to connct a hose to run to the front of the manifold. The second "T" connection is used in the front to connect the hoses at the front going to each valve cover for PCV (positive crankcase ventilation). Other than that, the other connections are the same as the stock manifold. The instruction sheets are correct.

If you have 2 T's in the front, there is somer sort of redundancy that can and should be removed for simplicity. Try drawing it out on paper and make sure it make sense.

This is pic from motordyno
http://imageshack.us/a/img4/9645/m3700001.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img809/2858/m3700002.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img59/2585/m3700003.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/thumbnmail.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img811/2324/m3700005.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img801/5566/m3700006.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img99/6692/m3700007k.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img256/5135/m3700009.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/7715/m3700010.th.jpg

The pics you are loading up are way too small to see. You need to click on the paperclip icon which will bring up another window which allows you to load pictures dirctly from your computer. After you load up the images, then click the down arrow next to the paperclip icon and select the images to load into your post. Pics of your installation or draw out the routing of the vacuum lines and scan a pic and load up might be helpful.

If you are pretty sure that it is a vacuum leak still, try this. Get a can of starter fluid and where there is a vacuum connection and while the engine is running spray the starter fluid lightly on the connection. If the idle increases, then that is where the leak is. Take caution doing this, as the starter fluid is highly flammable. Do it in a well ventilated area and have a fire extinguisher on hand. This is a common practice to troubleshoot vacuum leaks, but just be cautious. Start first around the base of the intake where there is no hose connection.

These pics might help. They are not the clearest, but hopefully they provide clearity.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1342363983


http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1342363983


http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1342363983

Will do that. Thanks bro's

Helo bro's
Yesterday I installed Invidia Test Pipe and reinstalled the m370 Motordyne Intake manifold. As Feeling the car changed a lot. So This Saturday I will redayno the car and let you know what will happen. :)
The car know very loud.

Good to hear. If the butt dyno feels good, then a tune will really bring it to life.

Awesome, hope the dyno matches the perception.

Guys,
Still after the test pipe and the reinstalled the m370 intake manifold. It made 246. And it is weak? What do you advice me guys? Should I take off the intake manifold?
The guys here told me to do a compression test.
Please help ;(

The tuning shop told me it isn't from the intake manifold. There is a problem with the compression. What does he mean I don't know. Any idea.

Did the tuning shop do a compression test? Low compression usually means that you are loosing pressure in the combustion chamber. The two most common reasons for the loss, is leakage around the pistons from scored cylinder walls or and bad rings. The second would be from the cylinder head gasket or valves not sealing properly.

No they did not do that. He told he will do it later.
Are those reasons are bad, I mean expensive to fix :0)

After the tune it made 265. what do you think it ok or too low?

That seems really low with all mods you've got. Unless I'm misreading something.

It really depends on the Dyno. Mine made 274 on a Mustang and I am quite happy with the performance. I'd probable see 320+ on a Dynojet though. How does the car feel to you?

The car feels very good. I like it.
I will send the dyno sheets shortly.

Those are the dyno sheet advice,
http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1342905045

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1342905045

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1342905045

I think that you are just fine. Did you have an uprev tune done? If not, that will really help smooth out everything and get a few more horses too.

Dyno looks fine to me , don't worry your car doing great.

Thanks guys.
You are really saved me. ��

I think i saw you car couple of days back at 3atif workshop .

Yes I went there for installing the intake manifold and the test pipe

Gaining 30whp from a tune is telling me something is still not 100%. Most gain 10-15 from tunes. Were you able to see the A/F chart?. I don't see you making any less than 300whp on any dyno with the mods you have. Your torque curve doesn't look like other VQ motors either. The torque looks weaker than normal below 3k rpm. One good thing to mention is your car definitely wasn't running out of breath at redline, still looks like it was pulling.

A mustang dyno is what I had mine tuned and got 275 whp and it runs really well. There has always been a large difference between a Mustang and DynoJet. His car on a DynoJet would show 300-310 whp just like mine would show 310-320 easily. That's why most people look for the DynoJet to get the numbers. I just look for a good curve and the peaks where I use it. You can feel if the power is there. My last car was pushing 550 whp on the DynoJet. His chart looks good, but I think some better tuning could be done to smooth out that torque curve.

If that is the case the numbers should be similar to yours. He has stillen headers, but no pulley. It could be the extreme heat out there as well. I generally measure a mustang do as 6-8% lower than dynojets. It's just a rule of thumb for me. I do feel though if the OP has the means to reverify the tune and dyno.

OP doesn't have the pulley, his exhaust is more restrictive and I doubt he got a good tune by the looks of the torque curve being so jagged. Also you are correct about the environmental factors too. A better tune would come closer to matching my numbers.

I agree with SShawk, I was 298 on a mustang, With stock cats and only a catback and Stillen Gen 3's. I know Dynos are different but 30WHP, The mustang I was on was a "Heartbreaker dyno).. An did I see that right 211 WTRQ? I was 240, An Auto X Coupe, What gear where you in 5th right?

Hi guys,
as a tuner they are good but they are the only ones in my city. About the weather it is very cold here :) it is about 45c to 47c and very humid also.
I will try to do a Compression test to just see if there are any problem.
I drove the car it is different from before. especially when driving with the (tiptronic.
I having problem with the test pipe noise not the hissing sound but it is like the pipe is touching something. I will take it back and recheck the installation.
Thanks bro's

there is also extreme performance in abu dhabi who does uprev tune in case you want another option. Tensai seem to good for the Evo,scoobies crowd but not for vq engines.

Will give them a try thanks bro

Regarding the noise your hearing, it's most likely the heat shields near your test pipes. Pry the heat shields away from the body. I used a flat bottle opener as leverage and just worked around the edges for about one minute. I haven't heard a rattle or vibration since.

Will do that thanks bro's
I will this weakened too much work and no time to have fun :(

Do you mean this sound
sorry I dont know how to attach direct link.

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I heard the file, that's rasp from the test pipes. It's definitely a common problem when installing on most exhausts. I had rasp for the first couple thousand miles with my long tube headers. Let some soot build up on the pipes and it will help quiet them down. If it still sounds like what I just heard, The best recommendation I can make is to purchase the Motordyne XYZ pipe with a resonator, but requires a Y pipe setup, which depending on which Nismo exhaust you have, may or may not work. Ben1620 added the Motordyne Y pipe / resonator and cleared up his sound. you won't have to replace your whole exhaust or get rid of your TP's. It's definitely much easier to install as well.

Hi SS-firehawk,
Ok if removed the test pipe do I have to re-tune the car agine.
I can't stand the rasp sound at all. I really don't like to drive the car with this sound. It look like something is broken in the car, :)
Thank bro