Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   Intake/Exhaust (http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaust/)
-   -   ITB's? (http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaust/5621-itbs.html)

Crash 06-30-2009 03:15 PM

Geezus... Look, you CAN make ITBs work, but it'd be pointless on this motor unless you can change the intake profile on the VVEL. Yes, you can make the VVEL handle them better, but all you REALLY need on this motor is a bigger air inlet since the throttle bodies don't have anything to do with the intake system. Getting the ITBs to fit would require making VERY long primary runners which can increase torque a lot but you won't see as much help with HP.

I'd suggest that someone removes the blades from the throttle bodies to increase CFM and see how that goes first.

regisbou 07-05-2009 07:21 PM

Ok so it shoudnt be done. I get it.

I like the idea of removing the flap/valve in the throttle body.

And for the NA vs. FI argument...its just common sense.

Better throttle response = quicker acceleration at any speed.

Permitted both cars are running at the same RPM or in their respective power band the NA setup will always smack an FI setup as long as the HP variable are similar. 360NA vs 370FI 360 NA wins.

On a road track is where the NA setup will win as long as the HP variables are similar. Coming out of a corner (after the apex) if the throttle is applied at the same time with FI vs NA the NA will respond quicker giving it more of an advantage.

They did a test with 2 civics (yes I know civics but they are still cars so dont bother LOL) one was a B18 with 230hp NA and the other was a B18 with 250hp. The turbo was slower by .8 seconds on the track.

I do not have the link because I read this in a Magazine a while back at Barnes and Nobles (bookstore).

When you shift you loose boost unless you have the new porsche turbine that has continously variable turbine blades (intake side). It produces boost at Idle since it forces the blades to spin during any vaccum.

So on a road track where a car shifts all the time the NA setup will shave seconds off of the FI time provided it is the same driver with the same technique. Because the power curve is the same at all RPM every shift as the dyno sheet states (NA) it is more advantageous to a turbo, whereas with a turbo the power curve varies while shifting because of loss of boost when depressing the clutch etc..

I thought turbo was the most beneficial as well but I was proven wrong and that is why I praise the NA route.

Formula 1 is NA for a reason, at least that's what my dad told me.

So in absolute technicality if a 200hp 160 trq NA setup were to race a 200hp 160trq turbo setup without a DOUBT the NA will win if its on the same track using the same gears, shifting technique etc.

in good regards,

Regis

Oh and for those wondering ITB's with a turbo setup is very beneficial as well.

But for the NA setup to be king vs the FI setup it must be ITB's otherwise throttle response is scarified...it should still theoretically win but ITB's or ICR's (little carburetors with velocity stacks setup like ITB's...common for motorcycles prior to 2001) have crazy response.

DIGItonium 07-05-2009 11:20 PM

We'd all be curious to see how much restriction can be removed from the intakes and manifold while reducing air temperatures. Maybe I'm going nuts, but the Z starts to feel sluggish when ambient temps exceed 90F.

Without going to the extremes of tucking the intake filter behind the bumper (since I prefer ease of maintenance), it would be nice to see aftermarket support for improved intake manifolds and whatnot to reduce restrictions and temperatures.

regisbou 07-06-2009 04:58 PM

In that case get a meth/water injection kit. This will only keep the cyl head temps lower but in tern it will lower the air temp as well.

A little droplet of water will absorb a lot of heat without getting hot fast enough to match the temperature it is absorbing by the time combustion takes place.

Meth Injection, ram air setup, removal of butterfly valve in TB/intake port. Manifold wise I have no clue, but those three things that I just previously stated should reduce temps and improve velocity.

Faster air = cooler air. Higher octane = better cooling.

So for cheap mods, channel some HVAC to the CAI or whatever intake you have via the front bumper, you can always get a drain plug to plug the hose when it rains. Get some Octane boost (not because it will give you more power but because it will reduce cyl head temps intern making the air cooler (denser) while being compressed and therfore giving you your power back or giving you more depending on your ECU learning curve.

If you run 91 octane try finding a gas station with 93. If not just get 89 and put in some octance boots (STP) it should up it about 5 numbers so around 94.

Thats all I can think of other than getting a new intake manifold

KingDavid 07-06-2009 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by regisbou (Post 107375)
Formula 1 is NA for a reason, at least that's what my dad told me.

Oh there's a reason alright. They made F1 cars N/A because they made way too much power and were way too fast while turbo. I believe they were north of 1800hp or so. I don't remember.

The fastest and quickest cars in the world are F/I. Period. I'm actually wondering what fool would get a turbo kit and only leave it at 370whp or so if they can get MUCH more from the motor with a better setup.

kannibul 07-06-2009 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by regisbou (Post 108399)
In that case get a meth/water injection kit. This will only keep the cyl head temps lower but in tern it will lower the air temp as well.

A little droplet of water will absorb a lot of heat without getting hot fast enough to match the temperature it is absorbing by the time combustion takes place.

Meth Injection, ram air setup, removal of butterfly valve in TB/intake port. Manifold wise I have no clue, but those three things that I just previously stated should reduce temps and improve velocity.

Faster air = cooler air. Higher octane = better cooling.

So for cheap mods, channel some HVAC to the CAI or whatever intake you have via the front bumper, you can always get a drain plug to plug the hose when it rains. Get some Octane boost (not because it will give you more power but because it will reduce cyl head temps intern making the air cooler (denser) while being compressed and therfore giving you your power back or giving you more depending on your ECU learning curve.

If you run 91 octane try finding a gas station with 93. If not just get 89 and put in some octance boots (STP) it should up it about 5 numbers so around 94.

Thats all I can think of other than getting a new intake manifold

Aren't the valve-covers filled with oil (to lube the VVEL system)?

If so, I imagine that all that oil would retain heat a lot more than a few drops of water could do.

regisbou 07-06-2009 08:54 PM

Look up meth/injection on google...its a very common setup for supercharged engines as well as turbocharged engine.

Suby's get around 15+hp just with the kit and their cyl head temps go way down.

Look...as for the NA debate I dont give a doo doo if the fastet car in the world has 20 turbos and its the fastest one.

I AM SAYING that HP FOR HP N/A wins. Get that through your head, I dont care if a turbo can have 1800hp, I am saying that HP for HP 300 vs 300 or even 310 FI the 300 NA will win on the track.

End of story.

NA is more reliable as well. Nascar, Indy, F1, Moto GP all NA...go figure lol.

I agree that turbo's are the fastest top speed wise, and that they have the potential to rape NA's because of the whole HP per litre issue, but NA is always more rewarding. Better throttle response is a winner in my book.

I love turbo's dont get me wrong, but you saying that HP for HP FI wins i'm sorry but your argument is false.

Of course this has to do with the same car, same engine etc...

in good regards,

Regis


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