Endgame, you're going to get gains with the Nismo. Just not as much as you would with the Stillen G3 is all. The G3s aren't for everyone. Some people just don't want to mess with taking their front bumper cover off, and they're willing to sacrifice some gains for the ability to avoid that. If you're one of those folks, the Nismos are a good option, as are the Takeda and JWT and Stillen G2.

Thanks Semtex. I am not concerned about all out power the Stillen offers; I don't want to deal with the bumper fun.

Thanks for the clarification.

um..... they cant make their own intake? how is it NISMO if its not MADE BY NISMO???

i am interested in the box sheild idea. i would love to be updated when more info is available

so, if the stock airbox is pulling air from outside of the engine bay (most airboxes I have seen do this), then the gains seem to be coming from either:

a) more filter area, allowing more flow
b) less restrictive piping between the airbox and the intake manifold
c) possibly larger diameter tubing around the MAFS tricking the ECU into leaning out the mixture for a few extra ponies

Could we build an effective intake system utilizing the stock airboxes but improving the flow between them and the intake manifold with aluminum piping? Could we build a whole new intake that takes an "airbox" design that sucks air from the front but still uses a conical filter and velocity stack inside a more efficient airbox in the stock location for the best of both worlds?

maybe I need to learn how to weld aluminum now....

Looks a little bit like this intake.

BMC CARBON DYNAMIC ARIBOX | AIR FILTERS | AIR FILTER | car - bike - high performance - racing

All 3 actually. I have silicone hose coming that will remove the accordion pipe and replace it with a smooth walled 2.75" ID. It will mate with the stock airbox if you choose to do this, though I'm going to mate it with my shielded boxes and larger ID MAF tube.. For "B", All you need is $100 or so for the Hose parts (45 degree elbos, straight tubing ,couplers and clamps).

I still need to work out the PCV breathers that will attach at the machined couplers.
http://images50.fotki.com/v1526/phot...MG_1818-vi.jpg

Mock-up...Still needs trimming and fitting:
http://images50.fotki.com/v1526/phot...MG_1819-vi.jpg

Not such a good design actually. The air comes in the center, then through the filter to the outside where it picks up heat from the very thin 1/16" Carbon shell. It is than swirled by tabs before exiting which is the last thing you want to do. MAF's just downstream need clean air for accurate readings. The Swirling idea is a throwback to the old carb days..

http://images39.fotki.com/v1227/phot...70/bmc2-vi.jpg


http://images32.fotki.com/v1092/phot...MG_0412-vi.jpg

Modshack, are you going to dyno the different variations to get an idea of where the best gains are coming from? It would be interesting to do a baseline, then replace the tubing and leave stock airbox and do a pull, then replace the airbox with your conical filters and do another pull, then hookup your cold air tubing and do a last pull. That will tell us a ton about the restrictions of the current setup.

Short answer is NO.. Small incremental changes of 1-2% or so are well within the typical run to run dyno variances so that wouldn't prove anything definitive. Plus, throwing $$ at dyno runs is not something I'm interested in doing. Common sense mods, even small incremental ones eventually add up... I'm in it for the driveability improvements, not a few HP at the top end.
I don't believe there is much restriction in the stock airbox...There usually isn't, but gains can be had with smoothing and straightening the flow path and other careful tweeks along the way. I'll get a dyno done eventually when things are all done and I have a convenient opportunity.....There are plenty of baseline dynos that have been posted here to get an idea of what's going on..